I was lucky enough to visit Vera last night - my very first visit - with a couple of LTHers and I was just blown away by both the food and the service (okay, wine/sherry too).
We started with the foie gras custard, served in a jar and topped with sherry jelly and bits of apple. This was a fantastic foie gras presentation, with the sweet but sharp sherry jelly and tart apples beautifully cutting into the richness of the dense but smooth custard. Somewhere, there's a goose very happy and proud of a job well done. Although this item was an evening special, I would hope Vera puts it on their regular menu - it was one of the very best foie gras dishes I've ever had (second only to the foie gras creme brulee prepared at the former NoMi by Chef Christophe David).
Foie gras custard with sherry jelly and applesEqually outstanding was the Uni toast with pickled chiles. I love uni, and this was really excellent uni. Add in the pickled chiles and the buttery crisp toast and you have nothing short of perfection.
Uni toast with pickled chilesI apologize for the next picture, but I'll say that these crispy Brussels sprouts will convert the B-sprout'aphobe. I believe they were fried, featured a nicely crisp exterior, with an anchovy vinaigrette (maybe some nuts too?). But they were outstanding and perfectly seasoned, with the anchovy vinaigrette lending a savory, sea salt-like flavor to the dish. These are nothing like the Brussels sprouts your mom boiled for you as a child.
Crispy Brussels sprouts with anchovy vinaigretteBeef tongue pincho with salsa verde was also outstanding. The tongue was supremely tender, more so than I ever believed possible. And the salsa verde had such bright, slightly acidic flavors, and garlic, and herbs, all of which added an even greater dimension to an otherwise terrific dish.
Beef tongue pincho with salsa verdePerhaps my favorite dish of the night, however, was the clams, chorizo and squid ink fideos. Perfectly cooked clams, a delicious house-made Spanish chorizo (one of the best I've tasted) and perfectly cooked noodles. This was seemingly such a simple dish, but the combination of the clams and their juices and the wonderfully rich chorizo with just the right amount of smokiness from paprika created a bowl of pure comfort - easily one of the best things I've eaten this year. And the colors were just beautiful.
Clams, chorizo and squid ink fideosThe pork Milanesa, with fried egg, arugula and charred lemon, reminded me much of a visit to Laschet's, except dare I say that Vera could teach Laschet's a thing or two. The pork was tender, with a light but crisp crust. The white on the egg barely set, and the yolk bled beautifully onto the pork. Add in a little lemon juice and some fresh, peppery arugula and you have another Vera stunner.
Pork Milanesa with fried egg, arugula and charred lemonOne dish that was excellent, but not perfect for me, was the La Quercia ham with carrots, radishes, apples, charred greens and vinaigrette. My lone complaint is that there might have been just a touch too much acid for the dish, although my fellow diners disagreed. In any event, the carrots were spectacular and so was the paper-thin and perfectly sliced ham. And I'd gladly order again, so we're talking a very minor complaint here.
La Quercia ham with carrots, radishes, apples, charred greens and vinaigretteI've always loved the whole branzino preparation at Piccolo Sogno, and whole branzino presentations elsewhere have generally left me wanting for Piccolo Sogno's preparation. Well, Vera decided not to take a back seat. The fish was garnished with Marcona almonds, raisins, charred lemon, chard (I think), olives maybe too? (not sure). The flavors were all terrific and the fish perfectly cooked. Personally, I would have preferred it filleted table-side (a la Piccolo Sogno) given the somewhat dim lighting and needle-like bones, but again I'm being really picky. This was a fantastic preparation.
Whole branzinoVera offered three desserts, and we had every one, all of which were great. Do you remember that old candy bar, Chunky? With chocolate, nuts and raisins? Well, Vera took the dish to a much higher level, with a dark and incredibly delicious dark chocolate (raisins and nuts too) and finished with flakes of sea salt. Remember that migas bark at Mado? Well, this was even better. Does that tell you something? It should. Don't be deceived by the menu's casual reference to it as a "chocolate bar."
Chocolate barChurros and chocolate were not exactly as I remember them in Madrid, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. The churros were amazingly light and barely crisp, sweetened with cinnamon sugar. And they were served with a dense, dark, liquidy chocolate. The chocolate was perhaps not as thick as you would find in Madrid, but it might have been even more delicious. We believe it featured a little cinnamon, maybe even some hot pepper. And the churros were sweeter and not as crisp as you might find in Madrid, but I liked them quite a bit (although I might have preferred a little more crispness).
Churros y chocolateFinally, and maybe even my favorite dessert, the Crema Catalana. Think creme brulee, lightly scented with orange, topped with a crispy, sugary crust and some apples (some sea salt too I believe). The custard was so light and smooth, and utterly delicious. The crispy, salty crust and apples elevated it into pure decadence. Good luck sharing this dish - we almost had trouble. And don't tell the French, but this Crema Catalana will have you running from creme brulee.
Crema CatalanaOur waitress was terrific- friendly, approachable, excellent knowledge of the menu, and she picked some really nice wines and sherries for us. She was also kind enough to suggest a sherry we could share just for the foie gras dish. I've had some really great dinners recently - Elizabeth, Nightwood, Avec, Next . . . I could go on. But honestly, the only dinner I enjoyed more this year was the El Bulli menu at Next. Bold statement, yes, but this was really one of the best meals I've had in the past few years. And there were several more dishes I wish I could have tried (next time).
Food-wise, Vera reminds me some of Avec, but those averse to the seating/noise of Avec would probably be far happier with the atmosphere at Vera. And honestly, the menu is even more appealing to me. I understand from perusing this thread that not everyone has loved Vera. Perhaps things are different now, but I can't imagine anyone having eaten the meal we ate last night and walking away with anything other than glowing praise - it was that good.
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