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The Bellemore
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  • The Bellemore

    Post #1 - December 13th, 2017, 11:16 pm
    Post #1 - December 13th, 2017, 11:16 pm Post #1 - December 13th, 2017, 11:16 pm
    The Bellemore bills itself as "New American Classic," which appears to describe the shared ethos and aspirations of its pursuing-one-Michelin-star neighbors Sepia and Blackbird as much as what's on the plate at this new Boka Group restaurant. The menu organization and pricing here is comparable to its competitors; the difference is largely in atmosphere, as Bellemore embraces post-barnyard maximalism: think big airy spaces, mismatched tile and wall prints, semi-bemusing object fetishism (here, peacocks). Unlike Proxi across the street, here the inspiration appears to be a 1930s Hollywood restaurant--or, at least, Woody Allen's idea of one.

    The food shows a lot of promise--so much so, in fact, that if Chef Papadoulos keeps improving and refining he should have no problem garnering a star of his own next year. There is the same level of refinement found here as at Blackbird, but the emphasis on bright flavors exceeded the latter's often muted precision. The Fall Salad, a mix of radicchio and brussel sprout leaves, came to life thanks to generously salted quinoa and pepitas; the champagne vinegar and honey dressing added the sweetness and acid that tied together what had to have been a 10+ ingredient salad. A suckling pig entree came with some surprise meat treats--chicharrones and a part that was something like the pig equivalent of roasted foie gras--but was sharpened by salted plums, milk custard, and the addition of vinegar to the jus.

    The novelty/vanity headliner is the Oyster Pie, $65 for two three-bite wedges of oyster custard, a modest shit ton of caviar, and tweezer things. It's a lovely bite--luxurious mouthfeel, just the right amount of brine--but I couldn't help but think this would be best as an opening salvo to a tasting menu with many more courses to come, rather than as a super expensive amuse bouche. (The glass(es) of champagne that comes with it is/are a nice touch, though.)

    Dessert felt like an afterthought; we passed. They do serve a few token petit fours, but they're overly sweet without any nuance.

    564 W Randolph St
    Chicago, IL 60661
    (312) 667-0104
  • Post #2 - December 14th, 2017, 2:12 pm
    Post #2 - December 14th, 2017, 2:12 pm Post #2 - December 14th, 2017, 2:12 pm
    chezbrad wrote:a modest shit ton

    Oxymoron alert! :lol: