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Revamped Las Fuentes [Tepatulco]

Revamped Las Fuentes [Tepatulco]
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  • Revamped Las Fuentes [Tepatulco]

    - January 8th, 2007, 9:08 am
    - January 8th, 2007, 9:08 am Post #1 - January 8th, 2007, 9:08 am
    My dining companions and I thought Tepatulco was a big hit on Saturday night.

    To start, we shared perfectly-prepared ceviche, bursting with freshness from the pungent lime, balanced well by the smoothness of the just-ripe avocado and the mild sweetness of the olives. Some ceviche's suffer from over-marinating the vegetables, causing them to lose their natural flavors. Not this one, where the vegetables seemed to have been added fresh, after the fish had been removed from the marinade.

    We also tried the camarones en aguachile, which our server described as "great if you like very spicy". We do, and this certainly was. Certainly not for the faint-of-palette.

    I got to sample two of the four entrees our table ordered - the mixiote de borrega and the salmon en mole verde. Both were excellent. The sauce for the mixiote - described on the menu as a "spicy pasilla sauce" - tasted like the rich, complex dark moles for which Bahena is known. Nutty, chocolaty, not-over-the-top spiciness cooked in parchment with boneless lamb shoulder meat that ended up extremely tender and rich. This was absolutely delicious. The salmon was prepared perfectly medium-rare, as requested, and tasted very fresh. The green mole was a complex and delicious complement.

    Margaritas were simple and fresh: lime juice, grand marnier, tequila, and a touch of sugar. The Mexican beer list is extensive, and there is a quite-decent wine list that includes a tasty, somewhat rare-to-find Mexican Syrah along with a number of Chilean whites and reds.

    For dessert we shared the flan de queso and were quite pleased with the light, Italian-style cheesecake texture and lime/brandy flavor combination.

    This definitely does not appear to be a side job for Bahena. He was working his butt off in the kitchen all night; then, as the restaurant emptied out, he sat at a table near the front with some servers, the hostess, and what appeared to be the owner saying goodbye, thanking people for coming, and asking for feedback on the meal. The owner and staff were a dedicated bunch the whole evening, demonstrating passion for both food and service.

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