I don't want to overstate here, because the food is what it is (and what it should be)---no more, no less. But the whole is more than the sum of the parts.
Located on the northeast corner of the intersection at Touhy and Western, it looks like a million others: an old, heavy sign that once lit up hangs over the door, the windows have fairly primitive signage regarding breakfast all day, etc.
Inside you have your counter with round vinyl covered stools and then your booths in dark red/maroon vinyl with the little juke box in each one.
The grillman does his thing just north of the counter but sort of walled off by a higher than normal partition, so only his head is visible and you are deprived of the theatre of watching a short-order guy work, which I miss.
I've been in about 3 times now, always in conjunction with visits to my GP a half block down Touhy. Both the quality and the firendliness are absolutely consistent.
The menu is the standard large laminated list of eggs, omelets, sandwiches, etc.
However, the justifiably breathless young man who greets you (and also takes orders for the whole room--counter and booths--buses, and cashiers) is truly glad to see you. You are greeted immediately. Seated immediately. Get your menu. Get asked if you want coffee right away. (Of course it's that thin, coffeeshop classic from Superior, but what else?) He stops by to make sure everything is OK after you're served, and apologizes for delays I don't even notice. All this should not be exceptional, but how many places don't do it? Or don't do it with genuine warmth?
The floors and surfaces are absolutely clean, and there are a few copies of the Sun-Times scattered around so you don't have to pop for your own.
The food comes out fast and hot in generous portions. It's not miraculous, not apotheosized, transmogrified, or ready to make folks forget the glory of Edgebrook Diner, et. al., but it is just what it should be.
Omelets are flat, made-on-the-grill style, but not dry. Hash browns are shredded and probably started out frozen, but they get a nice brown crunch on the grill, and they are happy to give them a bit more of the same treatment if you ask.
This morning they really warmed my heart. Usually I go for a standard omelet or scramble right off the menu. Today, noting that the cook looked Latino and that there was a small section of the menu devoted to Mexican and Southwest things, I decided to go that route.
Their Huevos a la Mexicana was described as a scramble with jalapeno, tomato, and onion. I asked if I could get some chorizo thrown in there as well. Mine host said sure and stuck the order on the carousel. When the cook got it, he came charging out from behind the grill area and with no prelude, directed a torrent of Spanish at me which my rusty Kitchen Spanish 101 brain was able to decipher as wanting to confirm that I wanted my chorizo scrambled in with the rest, not as a side. (I guess he assumed that only a landsman would order that way, and never noticed that I look like a total gringo, so the Spanish just kept flowing despite my game but clearly non-fluent replies.) Either my genial, halting Spanish, or just the fact that I did, indeed, want the chorizo mixed in seemed to get him thoroughly goosed.
I was expecting a scramble seasoned with some sausage. What appeared before me a few minutes later was about 3/4 lb. of meat, seasoned with some egg, tomato, onion, and wicked fat slices of jalapeno. The whole plate reeked of enthusiasm and generosity of spirit.
The jalapenos combined with the heat of the sausage was almost too much for me at 8:45 AM, but piling th bites onto english muffin brought it into line.
In addition to producing this special request, he also brought it to the table personally and attended to my coffee refills after that.
When I paid up I received the usual but startlingly genuine thanks from the young man.
There is nothing going on there to cross town for, but if you're nearby and want a classic coffeeshop breakfast, go in.
One note of interest that I didnt' have time to pursue: At the cashier's counter, posted at about knee level, was a piece of paper saying that they specialize in
empanadas and Filipino food for catering. Oddly, there is no hint of this on the menu. I asked about it, and he only said that it was not available for a couple of months because the woman who does it is on vacation back in the Filipines. He did not explain her connection with the place, or why this "specialty" is not at all integrated into the regular menu. Guess i'll have to go back and ask more questions.
P&S Restaurant
7201 N Western Av.
773.465.9413
"Strange how potent cheap music is."