Yesterday I was with my son at the playlot on Elmdale when I noticed a bunch of construction guys hanging out by what appeared to be a garden level apartment but as we walked closer I saw that it was in fact, a teeny restaurant called Huaraches Dona Chio "Estilo DF" (style of Mexico City, I presume this means?)
Seeing how it was lunchtime and we have a complete dirth of cheap Mexican food in Andersonville, I practically dove down the stairs into the little spot. The main draw does seem to be the huaraches, I noticed the woman behind the counter taking big handfuls of masa, pressing it under a wooden "tortilla" press and then placing the big slabs on the griddle. After waiting a bit I ordered a gordita with picadillo (ground beef) with cheese. So the only drawback was that it took a very long time. It seems to be a true Mom and Pop (and grandma in the back washing dishes) operation. The woman (Dona Chio?) did all the cooking and the man took the money, bagged things up and served people who were eating in--there are 4 or 5 tables. But to be fair to the real process, I don't think it took so long because of lack of skill, I just think the really thick cakes of masa she made take a long time to thoroughly cook through. Ditto on the huaraches. I ended up taking mine home and it was very much worth the wait (we waited about 20 minutes which probably was even more painful as I had an antsy 5 year-old tugging at my shirt).
The first thing that struck me was the masa: it had that tangy, earthy smell before I even sank my teeth into it. It was crispy on the outside but also slightly chewy. It was a real gordita not a wimpy tortilla sliced in two. (And it was big, about the size of a salad plate.) The picadillo really impressed me. It was not store ground crumbly "hamburger meat." This was definitely hand ground or even chopped meat, big chunks but not gristly. It had been sauteed with potatoes, onions and poblanos in a mild red sauce. Whoever made it, knows how to take something super simple and inch it toward the sublime. There was a nice amount of cheese, enough to make it salty and add a little gooeyness but not gloppy or overwhelming. Happily, there was no iceberg lettuce or pallid tomatoes in sight.
I kept telling myself as I was eating that I'd only eat half so that I'd have some more to enjoy later, but the next thing I knew I was staring at an empty styrofoam container. Of course I felt like taking a very long nap about an hour later (those post-lunch siestas are so civilized!) but it was worth the sleepy feeling.
I noticed they also serve breakfast, notably chilaquiles (!!!) but when I asked the man he said they were going to start serving breakfast in two weeks. So I am not sure if this is a new thing or what time they really open for lunch.
Anyhow, I watched many people order the Huaraches con tinga -- a spicy marinated chicken she had bubbling away on the stove. So we will be back to try one of those. The menu also says they have Menudo and Pozole on the weekends.
If you go, I would love to hear about your experience . . .
Huaraches Dona Chio
1547 W. Elmdale Ave. (just east of Clark)
Chicago, IL
773-878-8470
Menu says they are open 7 days from 10 am until 9 pm but not sure if this is current.
bjt
Original subject linehole in the wall Mexican joint: glorious masa "snacks"
"eating is an agricultural act" wendell berry