Yes, I surrendered to the night(life).
Some faint praise: I think pan-asian, by its inherent nature, is mostly awful; this was not. It was not memorable, but probably better than it really has to be. At least this year.
The room, as I'm sure someone above noted, is very pretty: black, lacquered wood, etc. I suppose it can best be surmised as capturing the feel of the signature restaurant in an expensive boutique hotel--that is, it looked like a large investment firm plopped $6-7 million into it as a loss leader to burnish an image. Except it's a stand alone venture. And one supposes the layout, naturally set up so that you can leer at other people poking at their food (while staring back at you, of course), encourages you to linger and quaff a few more $14 cocktails. Can't knock the hustle.
Service is mechanical but efficient. Heavily staffed, but stiff.
They served an amuse of fried duck skin and some marinated cabbage. I could say this had nothing on Sun Wah but the real problem is that it pretty much had nothing: some cracklins and some ribbons of cabbage. Very prescient of what was to come.
Our waitress suggested we pick one or two things from every category; there were at least six categories. Good one. We went with a salad, an appetizer, a noodle dish, and split an entree; we took home leftovers.
We had:
1) Salad:burnt watermelon and unagi “nigiri” (chili-caramelized watermelon, peppercress, unagi “bacon”, mango, lime)--there were five "pieces" for $14. Not offensive in the least; entirely forgettable in a heartbeat. The unagi was grilled and very lightly soaked in a surprisingly not-too sweet sauce, thankfully; I suppose it's called "bacon" because of how thinly sliced it was. The watermelon was neither caramelized or chili-ized; the citrus fruits were non-existent; the peppercress was merely garnish.
I ordered this dish because of its nod--intentional or not--to the pickled watermelon and pork belly dish at Fatty Crab in NYC, a dish I think is one of the more seminal plates of this decade of American dining. There, the fatty niblets of pork mirror the texture of the fruit, and the sweet and tartness of these two ingredients, respectfully, intermingles in a playful and delicious manner. Here, while certainly playful, the joy was lacking: the eel was a bit mushy and the watermelon was a lukewarm thud, with no crispness or snap; because neither had been given a resolute flavor profile, it was like eating two slightly adverse textures. Eaten, but with a sigh.
2) Hot Appetizer: "Toast and Jam"--shrimp toasts and a ramekin of spicy tuna tataki. This may be the most clever dish of 2009 not served at an Alinea-class restaurant, even if it did only comprise two components. Somewhat fun to eat, simple flavor profile, well executed. Dish could probably be improved by giving the tataki a more robust flavor profile than simply one-note spicy, but it's rare to find anyone doing the rare tuna dish in an interesting fashion. Stingy on the toasts. $14
3) Noodles: "hong kong style crispy noodles--double fried with brown sauce
char siu pork, prawns, asian vegetables." Pedestrian and (obviously) nowhere near the level of your favorite noodles at _____ (insert Sun Wah, Katy's, LTH, etc.); when viewed in context of the P-A genre and Sunda itself, pretty good. Asian vegetables = bok choy. Who knows if the pork really was "char siu-d." Brown sauce was nicely balanced and not over-salted. $14.
4) Entree: "crispy pata--confit pork shank with garlic-foie gravy, pea shoots." Reminds me of a G Wiv post--forgot which restaurant--when he qualified a nice-looking photo with "Warning: Objects may appear less delicious than they appear." From looks alone, this would seem to merit a best-of-the-year mention: the dish comes out with a whole pig's foot stood up on end a AND FRIED, with extraneous green stuff surrounding it. Alas, the pork is not up to snuff in the slightest, and the meat's done-ness was not consistent; there was a cafeteria quality to it. The foie gravy was a bad, bad idea: it was reduced to a pasty, sambal-like thickness, thereby robbing it off its transcendent texture and fattiness; it didn't add anything to the foot. Incidentally, the garlic aspect was served as a separate vinaigrette, which ended up working very nicely for the suprise of the dish: those extraneous greens, watercress actually, were very nice. $22
Desserts are clearly an afterthought: gussied-up cookies, banana fritters, mochi, etc.
My guess is that Sunda will pull a Mercat and stick to the same menu for the foreseeable future. Crawl, don't walk.
Last edited by
chezbrad on April 16th, 2009, 6:49 am, edited 1 time in total.