Below are some photos from the meal BryanZ describes above. It was tough lighting to shoot in. A candle and iPhone flashlights helped. I also accidentally let my flash go twice. Ah well.
I basically agree with Bryan's overall assessment.
BryanZ wrote:
This is a pretty happening place. It's got a hipness to it that feels, from my perspective, very Brooklyn. Not that any of this really matters, but when one thinks of comparable establishments around Chicago, Nightwood has a cool, youthful energy. If you're into that kind of thing, it's a plus. The space is generally quite attractive too, but it feels a bit too new.
I'd say Nightwood has more of a Brooklyn feel--in its chic, reclaimed, neighborhood cool--than any other Chicago restaurant I can think of. Usually I'm not really into that kind of thing but can respect it. I'm more homely in my tastes, explaining just last night why Smak Tak and Avec at 3:30 are among my very favorite places to eat. The hip energy of Nightwood may not have been a match for me, but I liked very much the aesthetic, also pretty Brooklyn. I had seen photographs before our visit last night but was still surprised and impressed by the layout, scale, furniture and details of the ceiling and molding--all very well put-together. I had medium to low expectations of the food given tepid reports I'd heard and also that I've never much liked Lula. However, I thought all of the food we had was solid.
Short Rib and Potato Pierogi with Sour Cream and Chives:
My favorite from the starters were the pierogi.
BryanZ wrote:
My biggest issue among these dishes were that the pierogies weren't really pierogies at all. They were more like ravioli with a vaguely Eastern European flavor profile.
They were very flat, not pillowy like pierogi and even flat for ravioli, but I liked the flavor, which was more complex (and, yes, vaguely eastern European) than I feel I usually see when short rib is involved. I don't know why, but I think often short rib as an ingredient is dumbed down.
Spit-Roasted Pork Loin with Brussel Sprouts, Bacon, and Onion Rings:
BryanZ wrote:
All of these dishes were solid, tasty, satisfying, but the only one that I was really obsessed with was the pork. I'm willing to concede that the trout was perhaps the better dish--very nicely seasoned, great hint of acid, unassuming but delicious braised green cabbage--but the pork resonated with me. The cut served is what, on a cow, would be called the standing rib roast. The deckle/cap was fully intact and I totally dug this. For the vast majority of the dining public this cap would be much, much too fatty. We're not talking marbling here, more large pockets of fat. I ate it up. Literally. I love pork fat, this was delicious. The brussels sprouts, while not revolutionary, brought enough bitterness to offset all the fat.
I, too, loved the pork loin and its fattiness. It was absolutely luscious. The brussels sprouts did less for me though I was saying that overall I've been disappointed with the brussels sprouts I've encountered this season. I would have liked a brighter, sweeter accompaniment to the pork, perhaps something along the lines of the salad with roasted apples that came with the otherwise forgettable duck. I think my preference here is the influence of my favorite preparations of porchetta at Mado. I'll add that I thought the fried sides of the evening--the onion rings with the pork and fries with the cheeseburger--were much better than average, substantial and crisp. I'd say the fries at Nightwood are on par with if not better than the fries from Chickie's, which are my recent favorite.
Wood-Grilled Cheeserburger with Fries and a Pickle:
Probably the most disappointing dish of the evening was the cheeseburger. It was done slightly past my preference, and I had a hard time tasting the meat. I blame Prairie Grass for my elevated burger standards.
I was feeling under the weather last night and by the time dessert arrived I was way past sensory overload as well as my bedtime. (My one major criticism of the space is that it does get very loud when full.) However, I think I still liked dessert more than anyone else at the table, and, unlike BryanZ, would never skip dessert for bourbon. (I'd just have bourbon as well.)
Domaine DuPage Caramel Gelato and Grape Sorbet:
I'm more forgiving with gelato and sorbet textures as I've been recently trying to improve that of my own. Domain DuPage is one of my favorite beers and while I couldn't detect beer in the gelato, I was grateful for the complexity it added to the caramel, which on its own is not one of my favorite flavors. The grape sorbet tasted like the Concord grapes I've been buying from Green City, very tasty.
Pear Tart Tatin with Late Season Raspberry Coulis:
I thought the tart tatin in form was awkward and that the coulis overwhelmed the pear, but it wasn't a bad dessert.
I'd go back to Nightwood, probably earlier on a weeknight. The food is thoughtful and satisfying even if less hip than the vibe of the place. And service was friendly and pretty well-informed. I think most things on the menu could be $2-3 cheaper, but perhaps it's the price of the beautiful space.
Other food pictures from last night:
Biscuits with sweet butter:
Goat Cheese Gnocchi with Sweet Peppers, Garlic & Bacon:
Grilled Oregon Matsutakes with Foie Gras, Dandelion, Plum and Almond:
Wood-Grilled Whole Wisconsin Trout with Braised Cabbage and Lemon Butter:
Wood-Grilled Gunthrop Farm Duck Breast with Celery Root Puree, Roasted Apples, Arugula, and Cider:
Warm Cookies: Ginger Molasses with Cream Cheese Frosting, Maple Sugar, Chococlate White-Chocolate Chip, Mixed Fruit Linzer (?):