You know, one of the things that's weird about Chicago is that while it is unquestionably a great pizza town (unless you simply have a NY/New Haven paradigm of thin crust so lodged in your head that you can't see the forest for the trees pizzawise), there isn't one PERFECT pizza. I tried Vito & Nick's on Pulaski recently, and as admirable as everything else about it was, I felt the sauce was kind of bland. Only the pizza that had onion and garlic on it felt like it was as robust as it should have been without extra garlic.
Here's a good example of a pizza where one or two great things about it have made it my recent favorite even though it is not perfect. But what I like is good enough to make me want all pizzas to share something of what it has to offer.
(Apologies for the blurriness, this is actually one of my first photos when I first got the dig. cam.) The pizza is Pequod's thick. Pequod's is a bar in yuppieville, near Webster Place (or "the Butternut Square Shopping Center" as Moviefone would say). I've gone in there very occasionally for years (I remember I first heard that the federal building in Oklahoma City had been blown up there). But recently I got hooked on the pizza for delivery.
On the one hand it's a pan pizza, thick and bready, which I normally don't think much of. They're designed to fill you up on bread, quickly and cheaply, unlike a deep dish which is actually full of expensive cheeses and meats. This is a little more substantial than most, but still, it's basically pan.
The pluses for it are: a spicy, chunky, hearty sauce. And the process of burning, caramelizing, some cheese around the edges. I love burnt stuff like that. I buy the blackest roasted Starbucks, I would get a whole bag of burnt unpopped kernels at the movies if I could. And I love this burnt cheese along the edge, better yet, the kids don't like it so I get theirs.
I don't know how they do it, but everyone should. Burnt cheese. Mmmm.
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