Just reading the Eater article, I fear that Des Rosiers might be shooting himself in the foot by "dumbing down" his restaurant to the level he (patronizingly?) seems to think Highland Park wants. To paraphrase the impression I get: "You didn't want a menu with words you couldn't understand. Okay, now you're gonna get burgers. You know what burgers are, right?"
But the article might not be doing him justice.