Parky’s, Forest ParkI remember stopping at Parky’s around 1978. I was living in the city, and my cousin and I drove out to Berwyn to help an old Bohemian aunt move out of her two-flat. My cousin used to live in Berwyn, and he demanded that we stop at Parky’s, a place I’d never heard of before. The place seemed retro even at the time: the kind of sloped roof reflecting an Eisenhower era sense of what the future would be like (clean and sweeping lines, bright colors, lights), but inside, kind of dingy, utilitarian…and maybe a little greasy (like someone lightly sprayed the interior with a patina of Pam).
I had my first Parky’s dog that day, and although I’ve visited randomly over the years, I have always felt it a guilty pleasure, with guilt taking the slight advantage, so I’ve never gone often.
Yesterday, it was bright and sunny and I thought, “Excellent hot dog weather.” I biked over to Parky’s.
A smile was hard to suppress when the counterwoman asked me, with genuine concern, if I wanted salt on my fries. I mean really, if you have a problem with sodium, or fat, or carbs, or calories, you shouldn’t be even walking by Parky’s: you’d overdose on those evil things on vibe alone.
It’s a very good sign when the bag of fries cannot contain the grease they’re were cooked in. Parky’s, since the first day I visited, has always been generous with fries, and you can see how wonderfully fatty they are by the “grease signature” on the bag (am I the first to coin that phrase; the language needs a way to describe that mouth-watering sign of deliciousness).
The dog is pretty much classic. Not the stripped-down Depression era wiener of Gene’s and Jude’s, and not the kind of fully dressed wiener you might find elsewhere at fancier dog shacks. Condiments are fresh onions, relish (though not of the radioactive blue-green variety), sport peppers, tomato with celery salt, and mustard.
Parky’s used to have another location on Roosevelt, and like this one, it was connected to a house (would love to know if that was happenstance, or if the original Mr. Parky’s business model was built around the breakthrough concept of a dog stand with annexed living quarters, the better to accommodate around-the-clock dog tenders).
I would have preferred a little snap in the dog, a fluffier bun, etc., but so what? For about $3.25, I got a dog with everything and fries, ate it streetside beneath a spreading tree and the upward thrust of the Parky’s roof, beside the sign with the hand holding a naked dog, pinky finger cocked in faux elegance.
Though maybe not the most sterling exemplar of the Chicago dog, and still a little funky around the edges, I’m very glad Parky's is still there.
Parky’s
329 Harlem Avenue Forest Park, IL 60130
(708) 366-3090
"Don't you ever underestimate the power of a female." Bootsy Collins