Chef's recent history to this point is
fairly well documented. The new place opened a few weeks back and is now, unofficially, the closest eating/drinking establishment to my abode. So, obviously, I'm very interested in having it be great and seeing it do well.
We hit it for the first time at the very peak hour of 8:45 on a Friday evening and in spite of the enthusiastic swarm that had descended on the ultra-cozy space (formerly Catalpa Kitchen), the place was running like clockwork. We were seated just ahead of schedule and based on how food and drinks arrived at our table, one would have no idea how slammed they appeared to be. We did what we could to cut a swath through the menu.
For the most part, we enjoyed everything we ordered. Our two favorites were the Peanut Butter y Lengua and the Fideos Secos & Chintextle. The former was an unctuous, perfectly balanced umami bomb that practically had us licking the plate after we'd polished it off. The latter was a rich, herbaceous and complexly flavored bowl of noodles in a broth so intoxicating, it was impossible to resist. After we finished off the noodles, I picked up the bowl and drank down the cumin-scented broth like it was a beverage . . . an effing delicious beverage!
Other items we were happy with -- and would order again -- included the bright and super-fresh tasting Ceviche de Camaron, a deeply flavored, roasted Salsa (and Chips) and a quartet of tasty tacos: Milpa (charred butternut squash), Chucho's Pollo, Al Pastor & Campechano. No, these are not hole-in-the-wall tacos but they were thoughtfully composed, skillfully prepared, very delicious, and I thought, legitimately ascended to their $4/each price.
The rich, earthy flavors of the Enchiladas Potosinas (with frijoles negros) were also compelling but, perhaps, the dish sat a bit too long before it arrived at our table and the texture suffered a bit for it. It was all a bit gummy, which I don't think was intended. We also enjoyed the Fish con Mole Verde.
As for dessert, 2 are currently offered. We bypassed the Tres Leches from Kristofer's (have had it before and enjoy it) and opted for the house-made Flan De Queso, which was predictably and satisfyingly rich, and restrained in its sweetness.
We didn't try too much from the bar. I had a perfectly respectable Margarita with blanco tequila and my wife had a couple of Chicanas, which is one of 5 draft cocktails offered. It's made with hibiscus, mezcal, gin, maraschino, Chartreuse and citrus.
As I mentioned above, the space is small but it seemed to endure a crowd pretty darned well. Service, provided by our server Andres, was friendly, enthusiastic, helpful and knowledgeable. Throughout the evening Chef worked the room, serving dishes at various tables and providing details and explanations as she saw fit. She appeared to be working her ass off, while beaming with pride. The 2 have a lot to do with each other. This food is outstanding and clearly reflects the significant amount of detailed hard work required to create it. We're damned luck to have this place so close to home.
=R=
Mi Tocaya Antojería2800 W Logan Blvd
Chicago, IL 60647
(872) 315-3947
Same planet, different world