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There can certainly be differences of opinion about whether one likes the food at Trotters. I, for one, ate there in April and thought it one of my best meals of the past few years. I thought the flavors brilliant, but on the subtle side. I think the trend today is towards big, bold, flavors that slap you in the face,and this may be in part why some find his food "tired" or "dated." Others, of course, may not like his food for an abundance of other reasons. I wouldn't suggest anyone is "wrong'' if they found nothing intersting in his food. What I sense in this thread, however, is that Trotter's personality, as perceived based on interviews and other actions of his, rubbed a lot of people the wrong way. Also, Trotters was long the symbol of very expenseive dining that many find over the top. That aspect of the situation seems to lead to the schadenfreude exhibited in this thread, and the, to me, unfortunately acerbic nature of the comments.

Jonah

This is a wacky thread denouement. There are any number of reasons Trotter's could be staying open until August, whether or not he's losing money, or not making as much money, or whatever. He may be honoring a certain number of reservations made well in advance. He may wish those who'd like to dine there a first or final time a chance to do so. He may be waiting for certain aspects of the property to resolve themselves. He could also simply be generously giving his staff ample time to search for work. Who knows? (I do think Trotter was probably too rigid in his ways to ride out or adapt to current trends; he never seemed to type prone toward radical reinvention.) But it's worth keeping in mind that no less than ElBulli allegedly lost money for decades, so I would probably discount (so to speak) intimations of financial collapse or whatever.

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FWIW, I don't think those are the only two choices.

Agreed. Almost nothing is ever so black and white. I'm guessing the factors that led to the closing are varied and complex, just as they would be for any of us making a major life decision. Still, I'm not going to miss it, but only because my last experience there was so negative.

=R=

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Spit out the gum, sister!

Twitter: ronniesuburban

The reporter could have gotten the story wrong. The original article was in the Some-Times. Some-Times they get it right.

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Toast, as every breakfaster knows, isn't really about the quality of the bread or how it's sliced or even the toaster. For man cannot live by toast alone. It's all about the butter. -- Adam Gopnik

But you are saying that this quote is based on a lie.

"Trotter says he's not closing the Lincoln Park restaurant for financial reasons"



He said it wasn't for finacial reasons, yet you and a number of others her insist it is, with no basis for this other than your own opinions. That is of course unless you have some other information you're withholding for some reason.

But whatever. If that's your opinion you are welcome to it.

Back to the story at hand, if you think Trotter's closing is good, bad, sad, joyful or otherwise you can't deny the fact that this chef and restaurant have had great influence on the Chicago restaurant scene. And for that I think Charlie Trotter deserves a tip of the hat no matter what your opinion of him, his restaurant, and his working style.

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The Tribune mentions the following local chefs who have previously worked at Trotter's during their career:

Grant Achatz: Alinea, Next
Homaro Cantu: Moto, Ing
Michael Carlson: Schwa
Curtis Duffy: Ex-Avenues, Grace (opening summer)
Graham Elliot: Graham Elliot, Grahamwich
Bill Kim: Urban Belly, Bellyshack
Matthias Merges: Yusho
Mindy Segal: Hot Chocolate
Michael Taus: Zealous
Giuseppe Tentori: Boka, GT Fish & Oyster

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"we must all understand that we're not all going to agree on everything, so let's just accept it -- hell, let's cherish it -- and move on." - ronnie_suburban

You can add John Des Rosiers of Inovasi in Lake Bluff to this list.

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John Danza

Now I'm even more impressed.

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"we must all understand that we're not all going to agree on everything, so let's just accept it -- hell, let's cherish it -- and move on." - ronnie_suburban

While I always thought that he came across as kind of an arrogant prick, I am willing to cut the guy some slack. He was a pioneer who built up one hell of a business. Perhaps the pressure of running his place at that level for 25 years, and/or a new wife plus any other pressures of his life, financial or otherwise, prompted a mid life crisis. So be it. I wish him well.

Congratulations on a successful 25 year run are in order, as is acknowledgement of his contributions to the progression of the culinary arts. Both are quite impressive.

However, I say kudos to him for being brave enough to leave it all behind and return to his original passion of philosophy at a more mature age. Can you even imagine what he might have done to the world of ivory towers during his "enfant terrible" years? (and that is exactly who he was and how he was first perceived; his quiet intensity was rather remarkable)

Still, I'd wager dollars to donuts that he'll be back in the game in a couple years, hopefully refreshed with new perspectives and another 25 years to spare.

Keep in mind that 'financial reasons' can mean a lot of things. It might mean they've been operating at a loss and they'd like to cut their losses, or it could mean revenue has been trending downwards, or it could mean that margins have declined as food prices rise.

I have a hard time believing that financial considerations have nothing to do with it, but that doesn't necessarily mean they're suddenly losing money. Most likely, it just means that the financial reward is no longer worth the time & effort to keep the restaurant operating.

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"I've always thought pastrami was the most sensuous of the salted cured meats."

By Independent George, you've got it!

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Food & Flowers: Late spring at the Shakespeare Garden, Northwestern University; new views of the Fargo/Hoyne Bee & Butterfly Garden, Rogers Park, Chicago

I believe David Posey of Blackbird worked at CT's as well.

The new menu at NEXT: Trotters 1990's

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Today I caught that fish again, that lovely silver prince of fishes,
And once again he offered me, if I would only set him free—
Any one of a number of wonderful wishes... He was delicious! - Shel Silverstein

***Non sequitur warning***

When I started reading this thread I immediately remembered what one of the sous chef's told me when Mrs. D and I dined there a few years back - that the huge range in the kitchen was so large they had to take out the east wall of the building, install the range, then re-build the east wall.

Now, I'd love to know what's gonna happen to that range?

Davooda

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The Sun-Times article was better and more informative than the Tribune article. I don't think it's a coincidence that the Sun-Times had an exclusive interview with Trotter and the Tribune had to rely on Twitter for its content. Guess we know which paper Charlie Trotter reads.

Anyway, I am no more interested in speculating about his finances or anything else not conveyed in the Sun-Times interview than I am interested in having my own finances discussed in public. Honestly, why do some people care? Because it's an indicator of how the restaurant industry has fared in 2011? (as if we don't know that). Because it's a warning sign for the profitability of high-end restaurants? (I doubt it. Jesus said, the poor will be with you always, and I suspect, so will the rich. (I mean, I said that last part, not Jesus )) If I apply myself to thinking about it at all, my reasoning tells me that no one with financial problems opts to quit work and go get a master's degree in philosophy.

So, who's with me in accepting the alternate hypothesis: that owning and running a restaurant is a demanding job, hard on the family, no 9-5, no weekends, no holidays, constant (and in Trotter's case, excruciating) scrutiny, and that if someone who's done it well for a long time decides he wants to do something else for a change before it's too late, he deserves to be wished the best of luck in whatever he chooses to pursue next.

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"I would gladly pay you Tuesday for a hamburger today."

I'm with you. I think speculating on his finances is not what this forum should be about. I thought Michael Gebert's piece was really nice.

You just named the reason I care. (Although you may have meant the question rhetorically.)

I don't give a fig what Charlie Trotter's personal finances are. But I am interested in knowing whether Trotter's closing has anything to do with finances because I am interested in what that says, if true, about changing tastes in restaurants in this city, about changing desires people have for the kind of restaurant experience their dining-out dollars will buy them. That subject seems, to me, pretty relevant to Eating Out in Chicagoland.

I feel like I'm banging my head against the wall here, but the man said the decision wasn't financial. Why is it so many people insist it must be?


I guess I'm too trusting in taking people at their word.

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Newest blog: You paid how much?

Is Charlie Trotter's as busy as it used to be, probably not. One of my servers just went to work there though and said they're still booked two months out on weekends (t-minus 3-2-1 until someone calls CT and proves me wrong but that's what I was told). He owns the building, half his kitchen staff are stages (free labor) and $135 for a vegetable tasting menu drives down your food cost, I think he's profitable. Profitable as ever, probably not. You also have to remember he has book sales and public appearances (Setting the Table is curriculum in business schools and culinary schools), CT isn't having a hard time in this economy.

My guess - he's tired. My friend who works there says CT is there everyday. And after 25 years he still demands perfection and isn't scared to get in anyone's face. To work at that level for that long has to be exhausting. Why eight months? He has eight months to say good-bye to all his customers but also I would think eight months is how long it will take to burn through that wine cellar.

I've never been but it's my goal to go before the end. He laid the foundation for what is the Chicago dining scene today, I feel like I need to pay my respects.

It's my guess that the cellar will eventually end up at auction. It's too big to go through in the time he's got, plus there are too many bottles that are essentially trophy wines. The last time I was there, in August, we did the usual tour through the cellar because I'm a cellar rat. I went off to the side and was visually checking out the magnum of 1870 Lafite and the magnum of 1921 Petrus. Does anyone order those in restaurants? Probably not, but they look great on the wine list.

Anyway, I think within the next couple of years we'll see a spotlight auction for the "Celebrated wine cellar of the former Charlie Trotter's restaurant".

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John Danza

Since you're commenting on my post, I feel I should point out that I have never insisted that financial reasons drove the decision. I'm simply not willing to foreclose the possibility that they are in the mix. So you're not talking about me, I take it. But for that matter, I don't believe I've read any post in this thread that insisted the reason is financial.

I have read (and written) posts in this thread that implicitly ask the question whether the Sun-Times article contains the entire story, but that's another matter.

Whether you're "too trusting" in this particular instance is something we don't know. You might be correct. Whether you are or not, I congratulate you on the trusting attitude you bring toward the world.

Excellent interview with comrade Fine re: Trotter's in Grub Street this morning: http://chicago.grubstreet.com/2012/01/gaf.html

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“We all have to stand before the kitchen gods.” Chef Jacob Sahaya Kumar Aruni

Great interview! Looking forward to Part Two.

Checking Opentable for Saturdays, that appears to be correct, with the exception of openings at the undesirable 9:30 time.

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"we must all understand that we're not all going to agree on everything, so let's just accept it -- hell, let's cherish it -- and move on." - ronnie_suburban

I can't really answer whether Charlie Trotter's is stuck in the 90s, but I can say that the food is absolutely delicious. If this represents fine dining was like in the 90s, I have to wonder why we didn't just stay there:



The middle three courses - the halibut, the rabbit, and the lamb, were as good as anything I've ever had; six months later, I can remember exactly what they tasted like. That was the lightest preparation of halibut I've ever had; it was light, flaky, almost like skate, but without losing that dense flavor that makes it halibut. The rabbit was my favorite course of the night, and maybe my favorite ever. Moreover, the pairing with the "Scyri" was absolutely brilliant - there was an incredibly intense earthiness to the wine which fit perfectly with the rabbit, mushrooms, and rye cracker. The wine was a lot like drinking mud - and I mean that in the best way imaginable. There was a kind of mustiness to it which seemed to make every flavor and texture in the rabbit dish pop in my mouth. The lamb would have been fine on its own, but pairing it with the pannisse is what set it over the top. The pannisse was rich & creamy almost to a consistency like foie gras; when eaten together with the fatty lamb, it was like an overdose of savory. Between the fat & "meatiness" of the lamb, plus the nuttiness of the chickpeas, and the olive 'funk', it felt like it hit all of the 'savory' receptors in my tongue simultaneously.

Admittedly, the first two courses were fine, but not especially memorable; I suppose that is consistent with the 'meh' reviews others have said. But the peaks were so high for me that I'd still rate it overall as a phenomenal experience. It brings to mind Howard Hawk's measuring stick for the movies - "Three great scenes, and no bad ones". Dinner started with two good courses, followed by three phenomenal ones at its peak, and then three "merely" good desserts to close (though I did especially enjoy a lychee gumdrop that came at the end). I grateful for the time I had there, and I'm sorry to see it go.

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"I've always thought pastrami was the most sensuous of the salted cured meats."

Why is he closing in August? I assume classes start in September.

Depends on the school. Unlike high schools, universities on a semester system typically start in late August.

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"I would gladly pay you Tuesday for a hamburger today."

He may also want to take a vacation before jumping into academic work. I can imagine that he will approach his studies with the same intensity he ran his restaurant.