LTHForum.com

I will levy one criticism, which I hope only serves to express just how perfect I think this place is. We went for the first time last night, and I wanted to weep with joy. Spacca Napoli is really a wonderful gift to the city, and one of the best new restaurants I've tried in a very long time.

So please bear that in mind when I ask... does it drive anybody else nuts that they serve their (delicious) espresso in odd, tapered, vertical glasses rather than traditional espresso cups? It was like hearing a stunning symphony, only to have the last note go flat. It's a pain to sip, and impossible to sugar without totally destroying the crema.

Am I alone in this?

Updated... photo, for reference:

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-Dom
www.skilletdoux.com

Yes

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Sauce on the side, always, implied, axiomatic..........never a doubt, BBQ sauce without.

Low & Slow

Dmnkly--

I'll stand with you Dmnkly. I love Spacca Napoli; I love the taste of their espresso; but I do find those glasses awkward, not least because they quickly grow too hot to handle.

Now that's service!



They had two samples hiding in the back, and the manager informs me that the full shipment should be coming in from Napoli shortly

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-Dom
www.skilletdoux.com

Well, perhaps:

The marinated anchoivies, anyone else try these? They were one of two remaining apppetizer specials last night at about 7 PM. They seemed especially intriguing as a pizza warm-up. And, of course they were; highly delicious "white" anchovies, a/k/a bocaronnes, with a salad of arugula and cherry tomatoes. Here's the kicker, they were posted with no price. I did not ask, if for no reason, to have an excuse not to order them. When the bill came, I expected a price around $15. Turns out, I was not even close. I think it was $5. Quite the deal.

Also, the eggplant appetizer was very good--I think JeffB once mentioned the zuchini appetizer, so it seems they do this course well.

All that said, this was my first visit, and I was not fully over-joyed. Besides the appetizers, I like the value-oriented wines by the glass (even if I can buy a whole bottle of some of these wines for less than they per glass charge 'cause I know where to shop). I thought the crust itself to the pizza was really good, bread like, and frankly, I'm surprised as soft as it is, that it appeals to some on this thread. I thought the crust blended best with the very strong flavor of the diavolo. On the other hand, the margherita and bufalo mozz were over filled, leaving the crusts too wet and the whole pizzas not balanced. And there were some service issues that marred things.

Just another eater.

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I finally tried Spacca Napoli this past Friday, arriving at 5:45pm just before the crowds. They definitely lived up to the hype. I had the prosciutto and bufalo mozzarella appetizer. Huge portion of the bufalo mozzarella. I only ate half of the portion and was pleased when my server urged me to have the remaining wrapped to take home (not something I've typically experienced with unfinished appetizers at restaurants - was even happier with this suggestion when the bill came and I saw the app was $12). I had the salsiccia e broccoletti pizza - loved the balance of the slightly bitter rapini against the crumbled italian sausage.

What I think is exceptional about the place is the pizza, yes, but also the fact that it is run so expertly. Goldsmith, the owner, looks like a busboy as he paces the room but, in fact, he's orchestrating everything.

My 2 cents worth:

The thing about the Diavola is that the pepperoni has some real porkiness to it. A mini-epiphany for me last night, along with the (by now) old favorites.

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A friend told me that the owner of SN is working on getting the restaurant certified by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (I love the logo). I didn't even know there was such a thing. She said he wants to take the authenticity of his product to another level. Good for him.

I love the logo too -- they should definitely be selling merch with it, although perhaps that's not the M.O. of no-nonsense food craftspeople.

From that link, I found (in English) the formal EU definition of Neapolitan pizza and a PDF outlining the requirements to become a member. It actually doesn't really look that exacting; not like they send a squad of inspectors or anything. A few forms and photos, mostly.

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Joe G.

"Whatever may be wrong with the world, at least it has some good things to eat." -- Cowboy Jack Clement

The establishment of the D.O.C. standards for VPN were a sincere and valuable effort to preserve a great tradition that was perceived to be in danger. However, VPN membership by a pizzeria is pretty much a marketing ploy. Just pay your yearly dues and put up the decal. Membership is no guarantee of a good pie. And just because a joint displays the VPN sign doesn't mean the pizza you order is D.O.C.-compliant.

Bill/SFNM

The establishment has to provide documentation that they have an approved oven, and buy approved ingredients. I think the pizzaiolos themselves are required to take courses and get certified (at least the organization offers classes and certificates). Regardless, according to the site there are only 15 certified Neopolitan Pizzarias in the US (there are 16 in Japan). One certified place is in Sheboygan. I suspect Bill/SFNM is right, and it is mostly a marketing scheme.

I love the line in the specifications document (which is fascinating) that says if a pizza is removed from the pizzaria to be eaten, it no longer "carries the mark" of a true Pizza Napoletana.

I don't know if by this you meant to say that if some place in Sheboygan got certified, the certification can't mean much. I've eaten at Il Ritrovo and was very happily surprised, both with the pizza and a lot of the appetizers. Granted, this was at a time when nothing resembling VPN was available in Chicago. Pizza DOC was the closest thing we had, and I had never been impressed. At any rate, it's worth a try if you find youself up there. There is a beautiful little store connected selling cheese, bread, wine (about the best selection of Italian wines I'd ever seen), and other fancy stuff. It's a comfortable space with truly gracious service.

Now I'm hungry.

Kristen

No, that is just one of my non-sequiturs. I meant I was surprised that the nearest pizzeria on the list is in Sheboygan. In fact, I was planning on checking out Il Ritrovo the next time I am up that way (see, the marketing works). BTW, if the VPN folks want to hire me as a traveling pizza inspector, I am available.

Maybe, maybe not.

I was in Washington, D.C. a few years ago where I visited a restaurant who had VPN designation. I then later looked at the VPN website to find this same restaurant had their VPN designation pulled. It was Bertucci's, which is of no relationship to any here in the Chicago area.

Now was it a matter of not paying their membership or they didn't pass inspection? I had the impression their departure from the list was related to their product, but I simply don't know.

Regards,

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Cathy2

"You'll be remembered long after you're dead if you make good gravy, mashed potatoes and biscuits." -- Nathalie Dupree
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LTH,

Taking the Yogiism "It's so crowded nobody goes there anymore" to heart I hadn't been to Spacca Nopili for months, my loss. Started with a drop-dead gorgeous ball of mozzarella deliciously, and attractively I might add, paired with prosciutto. No ordinary mozzarella, but top of the game buffalo which gently wept milky white when cut. We split two pizzas and, as good as the toppings were, the crust is what I'm remembering this morning.

Spacca runs like a well oiled machine, informed energetic service, polite, but still friendly waitstaff, comfortable open space and, even at the end of a busy day, spotless. They did, however, hit upon one of my own personal pet peeves last night and, frankly, I'm more than a little surprised, they stared breaking down tables while there were customers still sitting, and in some cases eating in the restaurant.

I find this practice impolite and, though every other indicator at Spacca Napoli says this is untrue, shows an underlying lack of respect for the customer. Though I won't let this dissuade me from going back to Spacca Napoli, the Bufalina calls.

Enjoy,
Gary

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Sauce on the side, always, implied, axiomatic..........never a doubt, BBQ sauce without.

Low & Slow

Don't get me wrong, S.N. is a great place. I haven't been for months—nothing to do with the food or service. We've been eating at home more. Something I noticed on my first visit, which was only days after their opening, was that the owner offers samples of wine or appetizers to customers. This is a great, generous practice, however, on my first visit he skipped our table, not once, but a few times after walking past us, even saying "HI." On my next several visits, this continued to happen. Upon leaving on my last visit, I pulled the owner aside and asked why some customers are offered the samples and some not. He apologized immediately and said it had to do with whether or not we already had drinks...okay, I accepted that, however, I didn't find that to be true. Every customer there had water, wine, or soda.

is Spacca Napoli still open for lunch on weekdays?

I spent a few weeks in Italy, and across the country saw it served both ways.

Only advantage of the ceramic glass is it retains heat better!

Really? Are these glasses gaining in popularity, or did I just somehow completely miss them? I've been to Italy about a dozen times over the past 15 years, and never once encountered a tall, tapered espresso glass. Admittedly, my travels were mostly limited to Venice, Rome and Florence with a few short jaunts to other areas, but the first time I ever encountered one of these was at Spacca Napoli.

Weird.

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-Dom
www.skilletdoux.com

I recall having an espresso in Rome served that way, at least.. but now that I'm thinking about it, it could have been a cafe au lait... or con crema, or whatever the proper italian term is.

Regardless, i went to SN for lunch today, had espresso, and had it in a normal glass. So maybe they were just out of small glasses when you were there. Or you got a double..?

It's a mystery.

Cortado in Spain are served like this (Cortado is espresso with just a bit of foam and milk)

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. . . and if you like, you can order a cafe cortado, served properly, at Intelligentsia on Randolph (It may be available in the other Intelligentsias as well but I haven't looked for it elsewhere).

By the way, I'm assuming the OP's problem with Spacca Napoli was not that the espresso was served in a glass, but rather in a tall slender glass. Espresso (or rather caffe) served in a glass is not unusual in Italy:

http://www.siver.it/bicchscheda0049.html

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I was just there and so was she.

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Steve Z.
Photographer/Pseudojournalist

"The only time to eat diet food is while you’re waiting for the steak to cook." - Julia Child

Incidentally, yet ANOTHER Neapolitan pizza place-- this one with a confusingly similar name-- is about to open in, I think, the former Zouzou space on Belmont:



At the present rate of increase, I estimate that by the year 2050 there will be 1,345,800 Neapolitan pizza places in Chicago, and all of Indiana will have been plowed over to plant Caputo "00" flour wheat.

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I gotta say, I'm pretty much okay with this.

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-Dom
www.skilletdoux.com

Steve,

I was just there as well, though I do not remember seeing 'her'. Either way, Spacca Napoli's pizza was, if anything, even better than usual, and the buffalo mozzarella with prosciutto was mind numbingly delicious.

Jonathan Goldsmith was particularly gracious posing for a picture with my niece and nephew even though he was being interviewed by Janet Davies and had a busy lunchtime crowd.

Annie, Jonathan, Michael


Enjoy,
Gary

_________________
Sauce on the side, always, implied, axiomatic..........never a doubt, BBQ sauce without.

Low & Slow

I was there on Dec. 23 for lunch and the "pizza lady" was not there. In terms of quality, the only difference noted was that the pizza was a tad overcooked. I ordered the pizza with rosemary, potato and guanciale; didn't care for it. It had loads of guanciale, which is good for those who love it (myself included), but I thought the starchiness of the potato clashed with the crust. Next time, I'll stick with the Bufalina.

Why are they closed on a Sunday at 6:30 pm -- Are there new hours?

773-878-2420: that's the right phone number? Oh well...

I went by this afternoon when they were suppose to open and a sign in the window said they are closed until January 17.