The miracle lead came exactly at the right time. We received an email from John T. Edge claiming that a new intern at the
Southern Foodways Alliance informed him about a BBQ man outside of Memphis that “ …cooks his butts using 90-100% field stump hickory. Yes, he chops his own wood chips!” Both Peter and I immediately looked at each other and were undoubtedly thinking the exact same thing; any man willing to use “field stump hickory” for BBQ is surely worth a Reconnaissance mission.
When we walked in and saw only about four different items on the shelf, a fridge full of sodas, and a fairly sorry looking steam table, our expectations were dampened. It also didn’t help that we were the only customers within sight.
We each ordered up a pork sandwich and then watched owner Morris Laddie carefully assemble them behind the counter. I feel a need to come clean and confess that I’ve always held it against any BBQ place (or region for that matter) that prides itself on a gloppy, ultra-sweet, tomato-based BBQ sauce. And Memphis and its environs are no exception. They also feel it is wholly appropriate to add sweet coleslaw to their pork sandwiches as well. Sweet plus sweet equals real sweet. What better way to mask an inferior pork?
When I first laid eyes on Laddie’s pork, with its ultra-moist shreds and chunks of expertly smoked pig, I knew right away that this was something special. Even the issue of sauce/coleslaw became a moot point. Each successive bite of this sandwich seemed to elevate the greatness of the previous one. In fact, after savoring each bite of this sizable sandwich, I found it mandatory to order another just for good measure.
What amazed me most about this sandwich, though, was that the obligatory sweet coleslaw and BBQ sauce never really stood a chance of messing things up when accompanying quality barbeque at this level.
Rarely, if ever, have I been more excited about BBQ than Morris’ BBQ and I'm pretty sure some of the fortunate locals in and around Eads would agree with me that this is one of the great BBQ pork sandwiches to be had anywhere
As Peter and I ate our sandwiches on the trunk of my Prius (like all good Prius owner’s do), locals slowly started to show up. Each would inevitably flash us a happy grin; the type one always seems to find at places that have the capability to put their loyal and gracious fans in (a sort of) culinary nirvana. Morris and his miracle pork, too, have their quiet believers.
(Photo courtesy of Rene G)
The only dark cloud to this tale, and it’s a big one (I mean the dark cloud part, not the tale), is the slow but steady encroachment of urban sprawl throughout this area (located about 25 miles east of Memphis). Mr. Laddie spoke with a reserved sadness as he conveyed to us how this area that he’s lived his whole life has slowly but steadily changed; that this type of change wouldn't include a rural BBQ operation such as his. God only knows how long he’ll stick around. When he does decide to call it quits, it’ll be another major blow to the ever-dwindling numbers of great BBQ establishments around the country.
In my mind, there’s no better vacation than heading down to the land of Dixie in hot pursuit of great BBQ. It is a rare place indeed that will make the BBQ cloud’s part, the saucy siren’s sing, or even just make you smile for awhile.
Morris’ grocery in Eads, Tennessee and his BBQ pork sandwich will blow your mind.
(Photo courtesy of Rene G)
Morris Bar-B-Que10601 Macon Rd.
Eads, Tennessee 38028
(901) 755-5804
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One forum member was wondering what the bbq taste like without the sauce. The bbq is AMAZING without the sauce! I remember relocating and tasting so bbq and it was horrible!! The bbq meat was "as dry as a powerhouse". I only finished the meal because my husband paid for with his hard earned money. I ONLY eat my Dad's bbq--plain and simple. The food is worth the drive-TRUST ME!!!! When I visit my Dad, I will be stopping by his place to grab a sandwich. The sandwich is massive and worth every cent! If you are ever in Memphis, visit my Dad's place! It is sad that major businesses are driving out Mom and Pop stores all over the country. My Dad has been a business owner for over thirty years and it saddens me that these`"money machines" can come into town and drive out businesses. My Dad is not only a wonderful business owner, he is also a wonderful person. He treats all people with respect and dignity and he appreciates your business. Stop by Morris Grocery and Deli the next time you visit Memphis! 
