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Yunnan Province, China: Introduction

This series of posts covers a March, 2012 trip to Yunnan. This mountainous province in China’s southwest has become a popular tourist destination for many urban Chinese and a few foreigners.


Mountain View through Tibetan Village Wall, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We visited Shangri-La, (formerly known as Zhongdian), Lijiang and Dali, as well as the city of Kunming, which serves as the gateway to the province. Yunnan is home to a 25 of the China’s 56 ethnic groups, including the principal groups we encountered, Tibetans, Naxi and Bai, as well as Han Chinese and Hui, an ethnically Han Muslim minority.


Tibetan Grandmothers Supervise - Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Tibetan Girls in Yunnan Village by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Bai Woman in Dali, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Smoking Break, Dali, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Naxi Grandmothers by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Embroidering in Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Bai Woman Rowing, Lake Erhai by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Yunnan borders Burma, Laos and Vietnam, as well as Sichuan to the north, the Tibetan Autonomous Region to the northwest, and Guangxi and Guizhou to the east. The eastern and southern areas of Yunnan are home to the Zhuang, Hani, Dai and Miao minorities, whose cuisines will remain undiscovered by me for the present. One day I hope to correct that, but for now, I will focus on the north and west-central parts of Yunnan.


Flora near Lake Erhai, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Yunnan is as botanically diverse as it is ethnically diverse. It would be as inaccurate to refer to “Yunnan cuisine” as it would to speak of “American cuisine.” Although modern advances in cultivation and transport have offset the limitations of climate to some degree, our Chinese guide, Hannah, explained the differences between the traditional cuisines of the ethnic groups in Yunnan with reference to elevation. Ethnic Tibetans traditionally eat barley, due to the limited growing season at high altitudes.


Racks for Drying Barley, Northwest Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Yak Herding Near Shangri-La by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Though they are Buddhists, the diets of ethnic Tibetans in Yunnan include yak meat, butter and cheese, a climate-induced necessity. Yi people, mountain dwellers at middle elevations, favor foods of the forest, such as wild game, mushrooms, honey and herbs. The Yi also raise goats, which are suited to the mountain forest terrain. Naxi people living in valleys cultivate potatoes, peas, corn and beans, and raise pigs and sheep. Their cuisine features hot pepper, often pickled. Bai people living near the lakes eat more fish and wheat than the other groups, and their cooking may also feature local pork, mountain pine, and some insects. The Hui, being Muslims, do not eat pork; they use a special dried beef in steamed buns and serve uncooked vegetables such as tomatoes and cucumbers. In the lower elevations, Bai and Hui farmers alternate canola and rice in fields that yield crops year-round. Tea and coffee plantations dot the hillsides. The temperate climate has given Yunnan its nickname, "Land of Eternal Spring."


Spring Has Sprung, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Terraced Fields and Bai Houses, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Farmer Working Near Dali, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Glory of the Valley, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Fiddleheads, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Porcini? Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Bounty of the Forest, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Yunnan Ham by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Preserved Fruits, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Lijiang Market Fruit Vendon by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Naxi Pickled Vegetables, Shangri-La Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr

In modern Yunnan, many ingredients are common to the cooking of various ethnic groups. The range of available foodstuffs should become clear in my posts on the markets of the three cities we visited. By offering descriptions of our meals, and, in some cases, recipes, I hope to highlight ingredients and methods of preservation that are important in the foodways of ethnic Tibetans, the Naxi people, the Bai, and the Hui.


Yak Butcher, Shangri-La by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Pork Butcher, Shangri-La, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Yunnan Chourico, Shangri-La by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Forest Foodstuffs, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


First Mountain Herb of Spring, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Hui Woman, Dali, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Baskets for Sale, Dali, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Woman Selling Vegetables, Shangri-La by Josephine2004, on Flickr

My husband and I are grateful to lth-er Gary Alan Fine (GAF), whose previous enjoyment of this trip led us to its organizers, chef and author Robert Carmack and textile expert Morrison Polkinghorne. These two Aussies, the directors of Globetrotting Gourmet know how to travel and how to eat. Thanks, guys!

We learned a great deal from Robert, whose many years of culinary-themed travel helped him locate the most interesting ingredients and menus. With the cheerful help of Hannah, (our local guide in Shangri-La), Robert made sure that all our curiosity was fully sated. We also learned from from the enthusiastic staff of the Linden Center in Dali and the professional chefs and staff at the Banyan Tree Ringha, Shangri-La and the Banyan Tree, Lijiang. Nevertheless, this series of posts may well generate more questions than it answers. Those of you seeking an authoritative source on Yunnan cooking would do well to consult Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid’s Beyond the Great Wall: Recipes and Travels in the Other China (2008). Duguid’s Burma: Rivers of Flavor (2012) covers the cooking of the Shan people, some of whom also reside in Yunnan Province.

Note on the photographs: Some of these photos were taken by me with and iPhone 4 and some were taken by my husband, Ray with a much better camera. He is the man behind the lens in many of the wonderful portraits above. I am really not sure which are mine in many cases, however, I have the flickr account, so they are captioned as if all are my photos. Ray will be posting some of his more memorable shots and experiences in this thread sometime soon.

Next: Yak Cheese and Longevity with a Side of Oxygen

_________________
Man : I can't understand how a poet like you can eat that stuff.
T. S. Eliot: Ah, but you're not a poet.

Extremely great photos, Josephine! The people and the scenery are both lovely.

_________________
Steve Z.
Photographer/Pseudojournalist

"The only time to eat diet food is while you’re waiting for the steak to cook." - Julia Child

Pretty incredible work. Thanks for sharing.

Josephine, love the photos and your info about the region - fascinating . . . can't wait to read more.

Looking forward to more! Lovely photos!

You should enter the photo of the woman rowing in a photography contest.
Thanks for a terrific post.

really nice, thank you for sharing.

i especially enjoy the photos of the items at the markets.

_________________
I got a real good mind.

Before Cotton was King: http://www.grubseeker.blogspot.com

Thank you, all, for the nice comments. I am delighted that people are enjoying the photos of the beautiful people of Yunnan. There are many more market and food photos to come, and some recipes!

_________________
Man : I can't understand how a poet like you can eat that stuff.
T. S. Eliot: Ah, but you're not a poet.

the embroidering woman looks like she needs a warm coat. and why'd you wait a whole year to post these?

Actually, the embroidering woman was working on a warmer day at a lower elevation. We did have quite a sunny trip overall- comparable to St. Louis weather in March in most of Yunnan, except for the higher elevations in the northwest, where a ski resort was still operating.

I waited a whole year because we have over 3,200 pictures of our trip. It is really hard to organize this much material and condense what I want to say about it to web-speak. I can be too long-winded and put in too many pictures, and I want to curb that a bit so people will find the posts readable.

On another China note, I intend to investigate the Sipalou Lu Market (Shanghai) that you recommended this year and I promise I will not wait a full year to make a report! (And I will avoid the NY Pizza.)

_________________
Man : I can't understand how a poet like you can eat that stuff.
T. S. Eliot: Ah, but you're not a poet.

Tibetan Yunnan: Yak Cheese and Longevity (with a Side of Oxygen)


Prayer Flags in Valley, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

In James Hilton’s 1933 novel, Lost Horizon, a traumatized veteran of WWI finds himself stranded, through a series of adverse events, in the high mountain valley of Shangri-La. He comes to recognize the place as a Buddhist utopia whose residents live harmonious lifetimes of several hundred years - until they must leave and experience the effects of advanced age. The Brigadoon/Never Neverland/Garden of Eden model seems as good a metaphor as any for a visit to present day Zhongdian, China, officially known since 2001 as “Shangri-La.”


Ganden Sumptseling Monastery, Shangri-La by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I have always felt that travel extends one’s life, not in numbers of days, but in expanding one’s store of memories and the subjective sense of having lived. Nothing remains alive in the mind so much as novel sights, sounds, smells and tastes. Shangri-La has much to offer a person seeking such enrichment.


Ceiling Detail, Ganden Sumtseling Monastery by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Sunlit mountains under deep blue skies offset our lightheadedness with clarity as we began to climb the 146 steps to the Ganden Sumtseling Monastery, at 11,090 feet above sea level. At 11,236 feet, we felt as though we had aged a decade. We were glad to rest in the main hall lighted by yak butter lamps under the gaze of the Shakyamuni Buddha. We discretely watched as a young monk sculpted yak butter offered by the devout into colorful lotus flowers. No photos were permitted in the temple itself. This is one of the entrances, protected from the cold by embroidered felt blankets.


Tibetan-style Blanketed Doorway, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The 17th century lamasery buildings were restored to their original splendor beginning in 1983 after heavy damage during the Cultural Revolution. Some aspects of the restoration are seen below, including the middle school where young monks receive instruction in the written language of their forebears:


Middle School, Ganden Sumtseling by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The gilded fellow perched on the eaves is a traditional protective figure.


Guardians of the Rooftops, Shangri-La by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This window is a fine example of the Tibetan style of architectural ornament, which seems to have much in common with European alpine decoration.


Tibetan-style window, Ganden Sumtseling Monastery by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We learned that when they have completed their training, monks may live in their own homes in the monastery. These homes are built by the monks’ families of origin. Below is one such home under construction. Note that the walls of a traditional Tibetan home are raised in stages, with earth packed into wooden frames. As the clay hardens, the frames are raised to form the next higher level.


Building a Monk's Home, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Modern-day monks in China sometimes own cars. Although we avoided taking photos of the monks themselves, we had to admit to being surprised when one middle-aged monk pulled a cell phone out from his robes before driving off.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Though I suppose that a certain amount of technological thinking forms the basis for the prayer wheel:


Prayer Wheels at Ganden Sumptseling by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Another surprise was the modern hotel and restaurant adjacent to the lamasery. It had all the comforts one might expect in a modern city, while avoiding the clichés of marble and brass in favor of what appeared to be Tibetan-inspired decoration. Lunch was welcome, as the altitude had begun to take its toll, and we were moving more and more slowly. We enjoyed goat rib chops with sautéed potatoes, spiced with red pepper and chopped mint. The local beer, Dali, was light enough not to slow us down any further than necessary.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

A very light, simple chicken soup featuring strips of the vegetable pictured below was served. It was a green that we encountered several times during our visit. Perhaps someone reading this can identify it.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

These fried potato croquettes were simple as well. We were not certain if the sauce was intended as ketchup, which it resembled, in an effort to appeal to American tastes. We did not think it appropriate to ask, as the staff was very gracious and we did not wish to be rude.


Potato Croquettes by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Noodles sautéed with egg, carrot and red onion were also very mild.

Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

A tomato-eggplant dish was flavored with scallions.

Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

After the goat and potato dish, my favorite dish of the meal was this chicken sauté with saffron.

Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The highlight of our lunch was our first taste of yak cheese. Expecting something funky, akin to goat cheese, I was surprised to find that this fresh yak cheese tasted like an exceptionally tangy, high-fat cow’s milk yoghurt with a denser texture. Here, it was served with a local honey that had notes of pine and high-meadow flowers.


Yak Cheese and Honey by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This Tibetan dish is considered a special-occasion treat served for weddings and at New Year.


Yak Cheese Blintzes by Josephine2004, on Flickr

It consists of an egg pancake into which is rolled a tangy filling of yak cheese. I know of no source for fresh yak milk, however you can approximate the taste of yak cheese by making yoghurt cheese from full fat Greek yoghurt.

Here is my recipe based on the demonstration given us by Chef Jerry of the Banyan Tree Ringha, who kindly did a celebration dinner on the final evening of our stay in Shangri-La, when we ate in a Mongolian Yurt that serves as a special-occasion dining room on the property. Though hardly Yunannese, it was certainly festive:


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Chef Jerry with Mise-en-Place by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Tibetan Wedding Blintzes

4 eggs
1/3 cup white sugar
Canola oil
1 ¾ cups labne (or homemade yoghurt cheese made from 32 oz. plain full-fat Greek yoghurt.Directions Here).

Day One:
Prepare yoghurt cheese by setting yoghurt to drain in a fine-meshed sieve designed for making labnee or by layers of cheesecloth set in a strainer in the fridge. You want to achieve a texture that is less dense than a fresh supermarket goat cheese log (e.g. Chavrie brand) but denser than cheese filling in a blintz.

Day Two:
Combine eggs and sugar and beat well. If you have a Tibetan churn you can do it the traditional way, with a vigorous vertical motion similar to the one used to make yak butter tea.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Otherwise, incorporate very well, breaking up all egg white and yolk with the sugar to form a batter that has a uniform yellow color, but is not pale, aerated and fluffy.

Heat a small (8-inch) non-stick skillet with about a teaspoon of canola oil until hot but not smoking. Make pancake number one with 2 or 3 tablespoons of egg batter swirled around the hot skillet very rapidly, just covering the surface of the skillet, as with a crepe.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Discard this first attempt. Just as with Breton crepes, the first pancake never turns out. Make a second pancake, cooking on one side only. Turn this pancake out on a cutting board to cool a minute or so. Fill the center of the pancake with a scant two tablespoons of the cheese. Roll to form a cylinder around the cheese. Cut at an angle with a sharp knife and place in a pinwheel pattern around a plate. Serve immediately or chill. Marvel at how much these resemble cheese blintzes.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

After dinner that evening we walked up the gentle incline to our guesthouse, a reconstructed home in the traditional Tibetan style. The homes are decorated with wood paneling that has an Alpine flair, as you can see from the carving of this built-in hutch, repurposed as a mini-bar.


Mini Bar in Tibetan Hutch by Josephine2004, on Flickr

A closer look revealed a nice selection of wine and beer, as well as this:


Oxygen With Our Compliment by Josephine2004, on Flickr

A nice idea for travelers accustomed to sea level. We were audibly struggling to get enough air. Or were we outsiders experiencing a reverse Shangri-La effect?


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr


.

_________________
Man : I can't understand how a poet like you can eat that stuff.
T. S. Eliot: Ah, but you're not a poet.

Absolutly love this. Feel like I'm reading National Geographic.

_________________
"In pursuit of joys untasted"
from Giuseppe Verdi's La Traviata

Thanks for sharing, Josephine. Great stuff.

_________________
-Mary

A Tibetan Family Breakfast in Yunnan


Shangri-La Grasslands, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The traditional name of Zhongdian (now Shangri-La) in the Tibetan language was "Gyalthang," meaning "Royal Plains." Though it appears that there is little grass in the expanse shown above, if you look closely, you will see black dots below the base of the mountains. These are yaks grazing, attended by herders, often women, who gather the yak dung to use as fuel. Although the mountains in Yunnan are covered with trees, restrictions have been imposed to encourage conservation and address the problem of over-foresting.


Yaks, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Everywhere in Yunnan there was building going on, from the small villages to the cities, to the superhighway that will link Kunming to Lhasa. Our destination that morning was nearer: a small village in a valley where we would meet an ethnic Tibetan family for a traditional meal. As we entered the village, we saw a man roofing this home. Just as for European chalets, rocks help keep shingles in place.


A New Rooof, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Our hostess came out and greeted us warmly. While her husband was at work in the fields, her in-laws and three children were present.


Yunnan Welcome by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We learned that families in these cold mountain villages tend to sleep in the traditional, expansive second-floor wooden rooms only during the warmer months of the year. During cold weather, our hosts spend more time in the warmer, if smaller, modern masonry wing with solar heated modern plumbing seen at the right of the photo below.


Welcome at a Tibetan-style Farmhouse, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

After introductions, our eyes adjusted to the low light and took in the comfortable surroundings. The center of the home is this stove, which has four vessels. One vessel is for tea water, one is for cooking water, one is for washing water, and one is for keeping food scraps and leftovers for animal feed. Low platforms covered with thick rugs surrounded the stove. This is where the family gathers, that is, when they are not trying to watch TV. For that, they lounge on the sofa at the other end of the huge room.


Tibetan-style Stove, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Prior to this trip to Yunnan, yak butter tea had been high on my bucket list of must-try culinary experiences. I am happy to report that it did not disappoint. The making of the tea is an interesting process, demonstrated below by the matriarch of the family.


Making Tea, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Churning Yak Butter into Tea by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Tea and a couple of tablespoons of yak butter are combined with salt in a churn. A vigorous vertical motion operated the churn. We all got into the act, and I was amazed at the suction and resistance that a churn made out of wood could achieve. The tea came out frothy, not at all the slick of oil that I had anticipated. I would compare the taste of yak butter tea to a cream of chicken soup, minus the meat funk. It is a salty, rich, and satisfying brew that I would happily drink on a cold day, should I be lucky enough to visit Yunnan again.


Yak Butter Tea Novice Churning by Josephine2004, on Flickr

A traditional Tibetan breakfast consists of yak butter tea and tsampa, ground roasted barley. Pictured here are slabs of homemade yak cheese and a bowl of tsampa. There is a specific technique for mixing tsampa with one's fingers in a bowl of tea, but we did not attempt this. It was easy enough to mush together a bite-sized bit of tsampa and tea, however.


Tsampa and Yak Cheese, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The farmer's breakfast may also include some of the foods pictured below, in addition to tsampa. In the white enamel pot are stewed cubes of yak cheese in melted yak butter, topped with sugar. Behind that, partially hidden, is a plate of fresh yak cheese with sugar. To the left are flatbreads that we were told are made with buckwheat. A pile of golden fried bread twists may be this family's version of kapse. We were told that these are made for special occasions.


Traditional Farmer's Breakfast by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We were also treated to some of the special occasion foods that the lady of the house prefers. These include, (counter-clockwise from lower right) stir-fried celtuce aka lettuce root, chicken with peppers and scallions, mushrooms and Yunnan ham, and eggs with tomatoes. Canola oil produced locally was the vehicle for cooking these dishes. All, including the chicken and pepper dish, were mildly flavored.

We thanked our hostess for her delicious efforts, and I asked her what her children like best to eat. She said, "They like rice best. They ask for only rice!" Should I have been surprised?


Feast of Tibetan Specialties, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We were very grateful for this opportunity (arranged through official channels) to visit a farm family's home. It was certainly one of the high points of our trip, a reminder that hospitality, whether given or received, brings a special kind of joy.


Tibetan Family and Visitor, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Before we left the village, we took a stroll to get a feel for the place.


Racks for Drying Barley, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

As we passed the racks where sheaves of barley dry we came upon a scene of children playing. These girls stayed within the watchful range of their great-grandmothers and shared a joke, perhaps about the funny-looking people walking by.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Tibetan Girls in Yunnan Village by Josephine2004, on Flickr

These boys, on the other hand, true to the spirit of young boys everywhere, were playing on construction equipment when they spotted us.


Boys Climbing, Yunnan Village by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Peek-A-Boo! by Josephine2004, on Flickr

They immediately came down and began calling out to us and singing. Wanting to respond, I called back in English. Like class clowns the world over, this young boy perfectly mimicked me in both voice and motion, eliciting howls from our group. Check out his walk, hands-in-pockets. . .


Boys under Barley-Drying Racks, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

. . . and his expression, which delighted his pal, the three girls, the great-grandmothers, and the funny-looking white haired people in parkas. As the saying goes, "You outta be in pictures, kid!"


Tibetan Boy Mimic, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Next: Shangri-La Morning Market (Not for Sensitive Viewers)

_________________
Man : I can't understand how a poet like you can eat that stuff.
T. S. Eliot: Ah, but you're not a poet.

Hi

Thank you for all this effort in time and pictures. I cannot wait to have my sensibilities challenged!

Regards,

_________________
Cathy2

"You'll be remembered long after you're dead if you make good gravy, mashed potatoes and biscuits." -- Nathalie Dupree
Facebook, Twitter, Greater Midwest Foodways, Road Food 2012: Podcast

Thank you all for the appreciation- it is motivating me to keep going. That said, I am having fun writing up our trip to Yunnan- it is a pleasure to look at Ray's beautiful photographs again. Also, I'd like to point out that it is easy to write about such strikingly appealing people and places. I am grateful to Robert and Morrison, our tour leaders, for arranging such interesting excursions.

_________________
Man : I can't understand how a poet like you can eat that stuff.
T. S. Eliot: Ah, but you're not a poet.

Beautiful photos and I am so glad you have incorporated a nice mix of buildings, markets, food and people! I feel like I am seeing the "real" deal. Wonderful and please send us more!

Hi,

I didn't realize all these pics were Ray's - bravo, they are just gorgeous!

Regards,

_________________
Cathy2

"You'll be remembered long after you're dead if you make good gravy, mashed potatoes and biscuits." -- Nathalie Dupree
Facebook, Twitter, Greater Midwest Foodways, Road Food 2012: Podcast

Some are Ray's and some are mine, but he has the better camera. I dumped my camera and went with the iPhone, but I think I still got some decent shots, just fewer in low-light situations. Ray had kindly given me the right to post his very best photos, but I think I can repay him - somehow.

_________________
Man : I can't understand how a poet like you can eat that stuff.
T. S. Eliot: Ah, but you're not a poet.

Note: I have decided to post two versions of our visit to the market in Shangri-La (formerly Zhongdian), Yunnan. The version that is appropriate for most people will remain here, in the main Yunnan thread. I will post the photos that involve graphic butchers’ stalls in a separate thread identified in the title as "Not for Sensitive Viewers". What is posted here does, however, feature pictures of live chickens for sale, ducks roasting, and photos of hams, smoked pork and sausages.

Shangri-La Morning Market: Yunnan Ham and Sand Pot Lunch (All Audiences Version)

Shangri-La, formerly known as Zhongdian, is increasingly a modern city with blocks of new concrete, metal and glass buildings. This portrait of Hannah, our local guide, shows her just outside the main market on one of these streets with her parasol, the preferred form of sunscreen in Yunnan.


Hannah in Shangri-La Town Center by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The shops in town sell everything from mobile phones to local wine. We passed on the Yunnan Mildred, but wondered about the branding process. (Were “Yunnan Bertha,” “Yunnan Ernestine” and “Yunnan Gertrude” even considered?)


Yunnan Wine by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This wineskin reminded me of something my grandmother brought back from Germany.


Wineskin, Shangri-La by Josephine2004, on Flickr

But this one made us think of a Pushmi-pullyu.


Rustic Bottle, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

And then things just got weirder. . .


What is This? by Josephine2004, on Flickr

. . . and weirder.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We settled on some yak jerky, Kleenex and bottled water and headed for safety.


Pizza Parlor, Shangri-La by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Just kidding! We ate no pizza in Shangri-La, but wanted to take this photograph for our friend Helen. Still, we were glad to learn that, should we ever seek to recapture our lost youth in this storied mountain refuge, we would not be deprived of pizza.

But seriously, folks. . .

We were in Shangri-La that morning to see the market. Chef Jerry from the Banyan Tree Ringha kindly offered to have his sous-chef accompany us that morning. The young man inspected the yak butter closely.


Chef Selects Fresh Yak Butter by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This ethnic Tibetan woman and her daughter-in-law offered yak milk products and potatoes for sale. When the chef pronounced their butter and cheese to be of the highest quality he had seen, they both beamed, albeit with some embarrassment.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Let’s take a closer look at the cheeses. The ones on the left are aged a short time and the brown ones on the right are aged several months. These reminded me of some artisanal cheeses that you find in France.


Yak Cheeses by Josephine2004, on Flickr

It was breakfast time for many in the market when we arrived. This stall was doing brisk business making steamed buns.


Steamed Breakfast Stall, Shangri-La by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This woman was frying dough.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Her asbestos fingertips make it look easy, don’t they?


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Looks like she was planning on a busy lunch hour.


Dough at the Ready, Shangri-La by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This enormous vessel got our attention. It turned out to be a stand-alone oven for roasting duck.


Mystery Vessel by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Yunnan Duck by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We made a note of this concession, and returned to claim a take-out lunch. Boiled tofu is at right. The bowls at left hold what may have been my favorite dish in Yunnan: braised pork belly with turnip greens. This salty, pork-rich, mineral-deep braise reminded me of everything I love about soul food. The pork belly slices are arranged carefully, so that they cover the bottom of the dish in a pretty pattern. The greens must be pre-cooked when they are added to the bowl. Then the whole thing is steamed. I won’t say more here, but I will return to this dish with more pictures when I post on a banquet we had in Kunming.


Yunnan Pork and Greens by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The photograph below gives an idea of the size of the market. It shows the right half of the central hall, a covered outdoor space that is ringed by alleys on three sides. The right half of the market is devoted to vegetables; the left half of the market is devoted to meat. (See separate post, as noted above.)


Market Scene, Shangri-La by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The alleys offer a range of household necessities and dry goods,


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

including herbs and spices,


Herbs and Spices Shangri-La by Josephine2004, on Flickr

nuts and seeds in quantity,


Sunflower Seeds and Peanuts by Josephine2004, on Flickr

and the option to grind them into oil on the spot.


Grinding Sunflower Seed by Josephine2004, on Flickr

There is fruit from warmer climes as well.


Fruit for Sale, Shangri-La by
Josephine2004, on Flickr

The poultry merchant was located outside the central market. This seems prudent.


Poulty Seller, Shangri-La by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Throughout our visit to Yunnan, the wide range of green vegetables was of special interest.


Greengrocer and Produce, Shangri-La Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Greens, Shangri-La Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

As I mentioned upthread, the Naxi farmers who live in the valleys of northwest Yunnan cultivate beans of various types, along with peas and corn, as well as hot peppers.


Produce Stall, Shangri-La by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Yunnan is known for mushrooms, but these may be of the cultivated, rather than the wild variety.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Mushrooms and More by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Yam Tofu, Shangri-La by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I can’t imagine that these fiddleheads were cultivated, however. Someone took a long time foraging for these. . .


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

. . . and for these flowers. We recognized chamomile and rose. Are those red bits goji berries?


Alpine Flowers and Berries by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Celtuce, we were told by our local guide, is something that grows well in the cold and is available at the higher elevations, so it is one of the greens most commonly used by ethnic Tibetans. We enjoyed it the during our lunch with a village family, and several other times on the trip. An alternative name for the vegetable in English is “asparagus lettuce.” I suppose it has something of the texture of an asparagus stalk. The flavor is very mild, however. It recalled to me a sauté of Romaine lettuce.


Celtuce - Lettuce Root by Josephine2004, on Flickr

One thing that was clear was the care these merchants took with their wares. Here are two women trimming and sorting.


Sorting Seeds, Shangri-La by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Produce Vendor at Work, Shangri-La by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Although few stalls have built-in shelves or cabinets, the organization of the wares is anything but casual. We saw this throughout the markets in Yunnan, and some of the colorful displays are the best examples of everyday art I can recall.


Naxi Pickled Vegetables, Shangri-La Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This stall struck me as a sort of Yunnanese epicierie/charcuterie/traiteur, offering variety of packaged spice mixes, prepared foods and cured pork products.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Charcuterie Shangri-La by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Pickled Chicken Feet by.Josephine2004, on Flickr

Perhaps the highlight of the market was the opportunity to learn more about Yunnan ham. Notice below the table the whole hams with attached hooves, similar to some Spanish way of presenting the whole appendage. This young man has a large amount of bacon for sale, as well as sausages and a few hams.


Yunnan Ham for Sale, Shangri-La by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Our sous-chef-cum-guide chose to examine this merchant’s wares closely. I thought the bacon looked a bit scary, but he focused on the hams.


Yunnan Ham and Bacon, All types by Josephine2004, on Flickr

He pointed out that the difference between the highest quality ham and the less desirable ham could readily be seen. The darker appearing hams (those at left and center), he felt, were too old, whereas the lighter colored hams (toward the right) were optimal. He conferred with the saleswoman and she concurred.


Yunnan Ham by Josephine2004, on Flickr

None of the unwrapped hams met the sous-chef’s standard for serving uncooked. He pointed out some shrink-wrapped hams that he might be willing to serve raw.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

It was time for lunch, and we found our way to a typical local sand pot restaurant, where we ate rice with ham, eggs and peas, and really hot noodles.


Ham and Egg Rice Sand Pot by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Sand Pot Noodles, Shangri-La by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I mean, seriously hot.


Morrie in Steam by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I asked the young chef what he believes is the most important thing in cooking. He responded that the most important thing is that the food be clean, but that after than, the most important thing is the passion for cooking. It was easy to conclude that the artisans and merchants we had seen that morning shared pride in their work; some of them were clearly of the passionate sort. The young chef had the air of someone who felt fortunate to have found his calling. We all smiled and thanked him for his teaching.


Three Marketeers by Josephine2004, on Flickr

_________________
Man : I can't understand how a poet like you can eat that stuff.
T. S. Eliot: Ah, but you're not a poet.

the young man's comments on ham coloration is fascinating because the darker colored hams are nearly the color of Jinghua hams, of which the Hangzhou folks also do not eat raw. And I did. Sliced jamon style, it passed for some form of Spanish ham even to the fancy Hollywood writer folks with whom I shared in the US.

That's interesting, TonyC. How did the darker ham taste to you? I would bet there is a more complex flavour.

And are you talking about the hams that are starting to go gray? Or do you mean the burgundy-colored ones? I should have specified that the chef felt he would not want to serve the gray-ish ones at all. In his kitchen at the hotel they are working with a very high standard of sanitation - plastic gloves, etc. All over Yunnan we saw restaurants working with dishes sterilized at a central facility and packaged in plastic until serving. Maybe the training of young chefs is particularly stringent regarding food safety? I suppose it is everywhere, as it should be, but I wonder if there is special emphasis in ways that depart from past practice and teaching.

Perhaps the young man noted our looks of surprise at the fresh meat butchers' tables and wanted to reassure us about what we would eat that evening. At Robert's urging (Robert was our trip leader; he is also a professionally trained chef), the young chef did select a section of pork rib chops to be served at our dinner that night. Robert had urged the pork be served just past pink. Chef Jerry thought better of that, apparently, and served the pork well-done. Later in the trip, however, Ray was served raw pork skin, a Bai specialty. Stay tuned for pics.

_________________
Man : I can't understand how a poet like you can eat that stuff.
T. S. Eliot: Ah, but you're not a poet.

Tnx so much for this really revealing travelogue. Your choice of subjects and high quality images are both excellent.

i'm just gob-smacked by the differences between your Yunnan today, and my Wuhan during my year there in '86.

Finally, given the usual convention of printing Roman syllables (as in pin yin, for example) with no spaces between them, I expect that your Yunnan Mildred wine is more likely Yunnan Mild Red!


Hope you have more in store for us!

Geo

_________________
Sooo, you like wine and are looking for something good to read? Maybe *this* will do the trick!

Please elaborate, Geo. (And if you have any photos of your trip in '86, you might post them.)


That is hilarious. But Mildred will be disappointed.


I do indeed. I am just getting going!

_________________
Man : I can't understand how a poet like you can eat that stuff.
T. S. Eliot: Ah, but you're not a poet.

Old Town Shangri-La: Yak Hot Pot and Tibetan Momos


Night Lights, Shangri-La Old Town by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Nightlife in Old Town, Shangri-La has to have taken a turn for the better in recent years. If you can manage the slippery cobblestones in the dark after a couple of beers, the options are intriguing:


Homegrown? by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Why Settle for Baltic Place? by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Eat Your Heart out, Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Yakboy Hat, Shangri-La by Josephine2004, on Flickr

There is a certain cowboy quality to yak husbandry in Yunnan, and a certain romance captured in the tourist takeaways offered at Shangri-La's sourvenir shops. Here are photos of a traditional steamer for momos, Tibetan steamed dumplings.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Primed by a trip to the city market, I purchased a Yak Tail "Feather" Duster for my brother. He was most appreciative. I passed on the tabby cat fur hat, however.

We had reserved a table ( Yes, you need to reserve here) at this restaurant. It reminded me of a cozy Swiss weinstube.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This pot came already boiling to the table, with a ring of pre-cooked yak slices arrayed around the center chimney.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I have to say the the yak meat was as tender and delicious as any beef pot roast I have had. Note the overflowing broth. We managed it with a few glasses. This permitted us to introduce the greens, cauliflower, scallions, potatoes and noodles that were provided:


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We found that the hot sauce provided was almost indistinguishable from a Mexican salsa. It seemed to be composed of tomato, cilantro, fresh hot peppers and garlic.


Yunnan Salas by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Here is a plate of fluffy, steaming hot scallion momos:


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We also had some stuffed with Yak Meat. We were instructed to dunk the momos in the broth and to season them with the "salsa."


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

A warm and satisfying meal for us all!


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

_________________
Man : I can't understand how a poet like you can eat that stuff.
T. S. Eliot: Ah, but you're not a poet.

Tony, I pulled up some photos of the hams sold at the Kunming Airport for travelers to take home as gifts.


Yunnan Ham, Kunming Airport by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Yunnan Ham, Ready to Fly by Josephine2004, on Flickr

It's hard to imagine that the dark color is a problem in itself, however, I am not sure how they are intended to be served,

Here is a (poor) photo of a dish served us by Chef Jerry of Banyan Tree, Ringha:


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Ham, mushrooms, peppers, oil, a touch of garlic.

_________________
Man : I can't understand how a poet like you can eat that stuff.
T. S. Eliot: Ah, but you're not a poet.

"All the Tea in . . . Yunnan"

Part One: The Pot

Perhaps the most thrilling parts of our adventures in Yunnan were those involving tea. It was not the caffeine that got my heart racing. It was the hair-raising ride along the route west, along the path of the super-highway under construction that will soon link Kunming to Lhasa.


Highway under Construction, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Fortunately for us, Mr. Bai, our local driver, had the nerves and reflexes of a test pilot. What really inspired my confidence, though, was his flat-top crewcut and Ditka-esque swagger. (I wish I had taken a photo. You will have to trust me on this.) Anyway, we had extra insurance in the form of this essential Yunnanese dashboard accessory: a solar powered prayer wheel. Here is the one I have in my car at home. I am pretty sure it works.


Solar-Powered Prayer Wheel by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The situations that had me in near-panic involved something like the one pictured below. As we approached a sharp curve on the outer lane of the narrow road with no railing, a truck loaded with livestock, boulders, or heavy machinery would approach from the opposite direction. The roadway was a tight fit for the truck and our bus. It was therefore inconceivable to me that, no matter what their urgent business, impatient drivers of sedans would pass the trucks, (even on the blind curves), and appear in our lane with only centimeters to spare! Even more inconceivable was that, as in the situation pictured below, a heavy-footed truck driver would pass the small car ahead of him, again tempting our mutual fates.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Most of the time, I kept my eyes shut and breathed deeply, but the views were just too spectacular to miss, especially if they might be my last:


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Terraced Fields, Northwest Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

It was with considerable relief that we approached our destination, the home of a family of master potters in a small village. We were in search of a teapot.


Village, Northwest Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Some of the homey sights brought me down to earth from my earlier panic. Cows passing on the street. . .


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

laundry hung out to dry. . .


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

and the possibility of a quick game of pool.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The potter's home was one of the typical Tibetan-style courtyard complexes, with a second floor devoted to their work.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I was surprised to see that this genteel structure with so much patina was in fact a fairly new home:


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The potter was at work in the main room. At center is the Tibetan-style stove. Sand fills the pot atop the second stove. This is where low temperature firing is done for some of the pots.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Here is Ray's portrait of the man. I think it is a very fine one.

The potter's method involves hand building, rather than a wheel. I believe the potter uses a coil pot method, finished with paddles. (This is the method used in many Native American pottery traditions.) We observed the potter working with paddles to finish this rather large form. It was to be a hotpot. (I also thought that the black low-fire glaze reminded me of some Native American glazes I'd seen in the Southwest US.)


Potter, Yunnan China by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Here is my portrait of his grandfather's teapot. I think the pot is a very fine one, if the photograph is not. We were told that the grandfather is considered the master of this form, and his pots are highly sought after. When we visited the shop in town that sells pots from other workshops, we could tell that this family's pots were in fact, superior, being noticeably more symmetrical in form, and more detailed. We were thrilled to be able to bring this pot back to Chicago for my daughter, herself a potter.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This was another type of pot, one with inset porcelain decoration.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The bits of porcelain come from discarded dishes broken into small pieces, here:


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Here are some tiny quail or perhaps snail pots, which I also liked. These are not for tea, but for condiments.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The ancient ways of firing these pots were documented in some photographs on the wall:


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We were glad that this ancient craft had survived and thrived, and yet were also cheered by what we saw on the roof:


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The day was lovely. Spring was upon us. I reminded myself of this as we boarded the bus to go back up the mountain pass.
Besides, there was lunch to think about.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

_________________
Man : I can't understand how a poet like you can eat that stuff.
T. S. Eliot: Ah, but you're not a poet.

Continued... wow!!! Each segment has been terrific!

All the Tea in . . . Yunnan

Part Two: Picking Tea Above Lake Erhai


Tea on Yunnan Hillside by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The mountain valleys of far northwest Yunnan are suitable for growing barley, but tea thrives at somewhat lower elevations. We visited a tea plantation above Lake Erhai, near Dali. The day was misty, but sun broke through the haze just as we reached the top of the terraced hillside. We were all given baskets and turned loose.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Morrie and Frank Picking Tea by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We were given instructions to look for the newest leaves. The ones that are light green in color are the new growth, considered the best.


New Growth 2, Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Ray showed me what he thought were some promising selections.


Ray Demonstrating Tea-Picking Technique by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Just then, I noticed a quickening of the pulse. Was it the salt content of our lunch just starting to hit me, or could a field of tea plants in the rain vaporise enough caffeine to have such a sudden effect?


Picking Tea, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Not the altitude, not the salt, not the caffeine . . .


Tea for Two and You for Me by Josephine2004, on Flickr

. . . but thee.

There was work to be done. We gathered on the veranda of the small tea house to learn how the tea leaves are handled after picking.
First, they are added to an electrified ceramic cooker, which is rather slowly heated.


Adding Tea Leaves to Dryer by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Newly Picked Tea Leaves in Dryer by Josephine2004, on Flickr

It is important that the leaves do not burn; they should simply dry. So, with gloved hands, we took turns tossing them in the dryer.


Gloved Hands Stirring Tea Leaves by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Our hostess showed us how to crush the dried leaves gently on a basket.


Crushing Just-Dried Tea Leaves by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This is how they turn out, slightly crushed. This releases the oils and the leaves are very fragrant, grassy, perhaps a bit nutty.


Just-dried Tea Leaves, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This properly handled green tea is then aged. Below is a photo of the tea we were served. It is an aged Pu-er.


Aged Pu-er Tea by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We were also shown another type of tea, aged for a shorter period.


Medium-aged Pu-er Tea by Josephine2004, on Flickr

A tea shop in Lijiang sold all types of aged teas:


Tea Shop by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The tea ceremony involved "washing" the tea leaves three times and draining off the liquid.


Our Hostess, Pouring Tea, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Finally, we were served cups of the fourth infusion. It was just perfect. And I cannot get the perfume of those mountain nuts out of my mind: a touch of maple in a walnut-cousin, with the Chinese equivalent of the black walnut's mysterious appeal.


Brewed Tea, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

_________________
Man : I can't understand how a poet like you can eat that stuff.
T. S. Eliot: Ah, but you're not a poet.

High Altitude Serendipity: Leaping Tigers, Naxi Ham and Hot Peppers


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The most spectacular natural sight of our Yunnan Trip was unquestionably the Tiger Leaping Gorge, a narrow canyon of the Jinsha River, a Yangtze tributary. On either side of the river lie Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and Haba Snow Mountain, each around 18,000 feet, with cliffs of over 6,000 feet. This puts Tiger Leaping Gorge in the running for the deepest river canyon on earth.


Tiger Leaping Gorge, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The gorge lies within the mountainous area known in recent times as the Three Parallel Rivers of Yunnan Protected Areas, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Yangtze, the Mekong and the Salween all begin here in the Hengduan Mountains. This biologically and ethnically diverse area lies between Shangri-La's ethnically Tibetan and Lijiang's ethnically Naxi areas, and is home to members of the Nu, Lisu, Bai and Pumi minorities as well.


Tiger Leaping Gorge by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The name, Tiger Leaping Gorge, refers to a legend about two hunters pursuing a tiger who escaped from them by jumping across the river at its narrowest point, 82 feet. Most visitors need to see the exact location of this storied feat.


Where the Tiger Leaped by Josephine2004, on Flickr

On one side of the canyon, there is a new road and a reliable stairway.


Stairway at Tiger Leaping Gorge by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Of course, there were plenty of strong, enterprising fellows looking for passengers to take down to the river.


Waiting for a Fare by Josephine2004, on Flickr


The Easy Way Down? by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We decided that we would forego the descent and take in the view from the platform.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

That was just fine with me, as the chasm felt to me like this:


Tiger Leaping Gorge by Josephine2004, on Flickr

And we were planning our first lunch of Naxi specialties. The mountain setting could not have been a better predictor of the dishes that awaited us. For a few moments, I felt myself to be in Switzerland:


Yunnanese Rosti by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Or perhaps in northern Italy, where a dish of favas and mountain ham would not be out of the question,


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

and a simple contorno of red chard would do nicely.


Swiss Chard Yunnan Style by Josephine2004, on Flickr

After a primo of pasta with prosciutto and mushrooms.


Noodles with Ham and Mushrooms by Josephine2004, on Flickr

But then, I might have found myself in my mother's kitchen, around 1965.


Green Giant or Birdseye? by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This dish, however, contained a combination that is uniquely Naxi: ham and mushrooms, with potatoes, peas, hot pepper and garlic. Wow, was that good.


Yunnan Ham and Mushrooms by Josephine2004, on Flickr

A plate of puffy fried cheese and one of soft bread like a Spacca Napoli pizza crust disappeared before I could film them.

But this combination of black skin chicken, ham, Chinese celery, scallions and hot peppers was another great combination of ingredients I caught before it was devoured by our hungry crew.


Black Skin Chicken with Ham by Josephine2004, on Flickr

"If this is Naxi cooking," I thought, "bring me more!" They did: a simple chicken soup with green vegetables, and a stir-fried eggplant with tomato. (Neither turned out to be photogenic.)

Descending into the valley, we saw where the vegetables favored in Naxi cuisine are being raised. Much of the land is devoted to gentle terraces.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Nearer the city of Lijiang, the valley widened into broader, flatter fields and orchards. The canola was just coming into bloom:


Canola in Bloom, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Canola Fields near Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Soon we ran across this roadside stand, where two women were selling the bounty of the previous year's harvest:


Naxi Pickled Peppers, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This woman was definitely the seasoned salesperson of the two:


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I wish I could have understood her pitch.


Naxi Women Selling Peppers, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

But some things are universal, I am certain. A pucker is a pucker is a pucker.


Pickled Pepper Pucker, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

As my husband observed recently, there is no way to improve on a place where, when you stop on the roadside, the people who approach you are selling hot peppers.

_________________
Man : I can't understand how a poet like you can eat that stuff.
T. S. Eliot: Ah, but you're not a poet.