Baconblogging 2: The Natural Pig
A box was waiting for me by the door today...
Open it up to find...
...but let's go back to the beginning.
So as much as I liked my homemade bacon, over time two things had been gnawing at me. One, it was hard to find really good pork bellies at Peoria-- they were thin and occasionally had holes where something had been gouged out entirely. Two, after reading Pig Perfect, well, I wanted better pork, better tasting, better for Al Gore's planet. My small quantity of Bob in Georgia pork had convinced me I wanted naturally-raised pork fattened over time on whatever the local free-range food was, not industrial pork raised in the polluted hell of a factory farm. Pig fat is unusual in that a pig doesn't really alter the fats it takes in; if it grows up eating acorns, as in Spain, its flesh is full of acorn oil, if it grows up eating peanuts, peanut oil. And if it lives in a big building on slats for its excretions to fall through, it winds up giving off a whiff of what it's been living above for its brief lifespan. Let's face it: modern pork is kinda stinky. But Bob in Georgia's pork wasn't. It was
pretty.
However, Bob doesn't ship, except by helping Bruce load a bunch of coolers into his car, so I needed a supplier who was set up to send out naturally-raised pork bellies. And that proved hard to find. Partly, I suspect, because as one Illinois pig farmer told me, there's a lot more money in selling bacon than in selling pork bellies for someone else to make bacon from. It's an easy way to increase the price per pound, for any farmer with his own retail operation or connection. Others, who weren't so well set up for small consumer orders, simply sold by the 1/2 or whole hog, take it or leave it, and I wasn't prepared to commit to pork for my next 50 fancy meals just to get a few rashers of bacon.
By this point, you're saying, what, Mike G, never heard of Niman Ranch? Well of course I had, but with an 8-lb. belly going for almost $40, plus shipping, I was looking at at least $7-8 per pound by the time all was said and done. I hoped to beat that by at least a buck, and at the same time encourage in the most cash-based way possible some other farmer who wasn't part of the Niman marketing machine, maybe even get them a few other orders from LTHForumers.
Finally I found this one:
Northeast Iowa Specialty Meats. They didn't actually offer pork bellies, but I suspected that if I asked them about it, they'd sell them to me. A little back and forth by email and soon I was on the waiting list for a few big hunks of pork, sawed into a size suitable for shipping.
And so I found myself today with a box, containing...
Two thick pork bellies, 2-1/2 to 3 inches thick compared to my last Peoria ones which were lucky to go much over 1". Dark ruby-red meat, luxuriously silky snow-white fat, much like the Bob in Georgia pork. The cost? A mere $3.10 per pound for the meat alone, all 21.5 pounds of it. Of course, add shipping and dry ice (which, given our recent 70-degree days, proved to be a wise investment, somewhat to my surprise), and even not counting the $20 deposit on the shipping container the price rises substantially to around $110, or right around $5 per pound. Compared to $1.39/lb. at Peoria (some of which is skin, of course, so call it closer to $1.75), it's quite a bit more. But it still compares reasonably to the cost of storebought bacon ($6.50/lb. for Paulina's, for instance; around $10/lb. for Applegate Farms' lameass uncured natural bacon at Whole Foods). Not, mind you, that I'm an utter pennypincher about this stuff, not at all. But it's reassuring to know that I'm not paying through the nose for the privilege of doing most of the work myself.
Barely squeezing the two bellies into 2.5-gallon Hefty zipper bags, I added a pink salt-salt-sugar cure (per Charcuterie), some crushed juniper berries and several glugs of maple syrup, and sealed the bags tight and stuck them in the basement fridge. In ten days, after turning and sloshing them around a bit, I will smoke them. Stay tuned...