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At any given time, PNA is almost sure to have at least one type of náam phrík, or Thai-style “dip,” available for sale. A few such dips include náam phrík kà-pì (Central Thai-style shrimp paste dip), náam phrík àwng (Northern Thai-style minced pork and tomato dip), náam phrík nùm (Northern Thai-style green chile dip), náam phrík plaa yâang (Central Thai-style grilled fish dip), and the incomparably funky náam phrík plaa ráa sàp (Northern Thai-style fermented fish dip), outlined below.


náam phrík plaa ráa sàp -- ingredients

This pungent and bracing dip is suitably accompanied by any number of things, including blanched water spinach (phàk bûng tôm), crisply-fried pork skins (khàep mũu), crisply-fried fish (plaa kràwp), boiled quail eggs (khài nók kra-tha tôm), sliced cucumber (taeng kwaa chín), and blanched bitter melon (mára tôm). Pictured with the plated dip below are crisply-fried pork skins (khàep mũu) and blanched "baby" bitter melons (lûuk mára tôm).*


náam phrík plaa ráa sàp -- service

Thais attribute a number of medicinal and healthful qualities to bitter melon. It is believed to regulate body temperature, flush toxins from the blood, and even slow the aging process. “Baby” bitter melons are more bitter than their mature counterparts and, for that reason, extra care must be taken in their preparation. For use as an accompaniment to a relish like the one outlined here, I would suggest poking them all over with a knife before cold-blanching in salty water. [Alternately, the melons can be halved before cold-blanching.] This allows for greater absorption of the salt solution, significantly reducing the vegetables' bitterness.


lûuk mára tôm : blanched “baby” bitter melon

NB I have outlined the item above largely for the purpose of documentation. I do not realistically expect many folks here to follow in my path. If I were asked to rank this item in terms of its "difficulty," or in terms of the "challenge" it might present to the unaccustomed or inexperienced palate, well, it would be very near the top of my scale. Plaa ráa is, after all, "rotten fish."

PNA
2310 W. Leland Ave.
773.784.1797

E.M.

* Both the pork skins and the "baby" bitter melons can be purchased at PNA. But, be advised that while the pork skins are available year round, the baby bitter melons are only available for a short period of time each year.

_________________
"Don't even touch my gold, I'm good."

Erik,

thanks for the PNA information. As far as Bitter Melons - another technique I've seen used to is to halve the smaller melons (or if using larger ones, chunks therof) and salt over night, and discarding any salted juices that are extracted - similar to what is sometimes done with eggplants.

My sis (in delhi right now) then makes a spice paste and slathers over the cut sides of the two melon halves, combines the pieces and shallow fries the whole contraption.

I'm not a great bitter melon fan (to the consternation of my mother) but done in the fashion above, they are pretty tasty.

Thanks for an enticing post, Erik. Two questions: Do you get special Thai pork skins or would the chicharrones from my local carniceria suffice? And how does cold-blanching work, exactly?

Kristen

Your sister's technique sounds very appealing. Like you, I often have a hard time with bitter melon, and I generally prefer preparations which minimize the vegetable's bitter character.



1) You are free to use whichever pork skins you like. I happen to like the pork skins at PNA quite a bit. They are very light and crunchy.

2) By "cold-blanching," I only mean blanching from a cold water start. To prepare the "baby" bitter melons pictured above, I placed them in a pot of cold (salted) water and brought it to a boil.

E.M.

_________________
"Don't even touch my gold, I'm good."