LTHForum.com

Chef Matthias Merges's new, speakeasy-style cocktail bar officially opened in Logan Square on Thursday (1/24/13), and after looking forward to it for months, I stopped in on Friday for a few rounds and some snacks. Good times.

The long, narrow space is absolutely beautiful and also comfortable. Original ceiling and floors have been restored and they, along with many other artful touches, give the space a rich, polished feel that is very much Chicago. Lighting fixtures throughout the space are gorgeous, and the parquet bar and tabletops provide a great feel, especially if you're a Celtics fan. For those who are not enamored with the high, backless stools at Yusho, they'll be happy to settle into some padded, upholstered stools that have backs and are of a more conventional height. There are 16 (or so) of these seats at the bar, as well as a few standard-height 2-tops and 4-tops, too. The space holds about 50 people total.

At the helm is GM Alex Bachman, who also curates (and still oversees) the bar at Yusho. He has a great vision for cocktails, especially food-friendly cocktails, and the Cocktail Menu reflects his distinctive aesthetic. We tried several cocktails and enjoyed them quite a bit. Being the boozehound that I am, my favorites were the Old Fashioned (Bourbon, Rhubarbamaro, Cube Sugar, Essential Oils) and the Cocktail (Malted Rye, Ambergris Laced Palm Sugar, Water, North Bay Bitters). But I also really enjoyed a taste of a Hoar's Frost (London Dry Gin, Orange Curaçao, Lemon, London Dock Rum, Grenadine) that my wife ordered. Alex had occasionally made them for me back at Yusho. The house Negroni (Old Tom Gin, Vermouth di Torino, Gran Classico Bitter, Flamed Orange), which I tasted, is also fantastic -- a very well-balanced rendition.

We tried a couple of items from the Food Menu: Garbanzo Bean (Whipped, with Preserved Lemon & Pickled Pistachio) and Pig Ears (Fried, Malt Vinegared, served with Cornichon Aioli). The garbanzo dish was a creamy, lemony take on hummus and I thought it was great. We also enjoyed the pig ears, which played very much like pork rinds. They were light, crispy and greaseless, and I really dug the cornichon aioli with which they were served but they were even better dipped in the garbanzo whip. Other offerings -- like croquettes, pickled sardines, smoked trout, braised rabbit and duck confit -- were very enticing and seem like perfect bar fare. I look forward to checking out more of the menu on upcoming visits.

A bit later I tried their original take on a Daiquiri (Rhum Agricole Blanc, Jamaican Overproof White Rum, Lime, Passion Fruit, Pineapple Bitters), which features 2 of my favorite rums (La Favorite and Wray & Nephew 151) but I ordered it near the end of our session and the drink was a bit to sweet for where I was at that time. Still, I could see starting with it and enjoying it. By the end of our session, veteran barman Michael Rubel (Violet Hour, Big Star), who is back from a stint in Louisville, was making our drinks. It was cool to see such an experienced drinkslinger behind the bar. I told him that I needed to finish with something a little boozier and he made me a very tasty riff on a Manhattan, which incorporated Zucca rhubarb liqueur instead of sweet vermouth. I liked how the drink finished quite a bit.

There's also a Beer & Wine Menu, which we didn't explore at all this time around.

Prices seem very much in line with the neighborhood. Cocktails were $10 each and the pig ears and garbanzos were $7 and $5 respectively. I think this is going to be a very cool addition to the Logan Square drinking scene.

=R=

Billy Sunday (website)
3143 W Logan Blvd.
Chicago, IL 60647
(773) 661-2485

_________________
I just wanna live until I gotta die. I know I ain't perfect but God knows I try. --Todd Snider

Twitter: ronniesuburban

How busy was it when you were there? I was thinking of stopping by tonight but don't care to wait out in the cold.

By 8 it was plenty crowded. There was no line out the door but there were no open seats either. It was 2-3 deep at some parts of the bar.

=R=

_________________
I just wanna live until I gotta die. I know I ain't perfect but God knows I try. --Todd Snider

Twitter: ronniesuburban

If the bar is at capacity, they will take your cell number and call you when space opens up.

The bar is conveniently located directly next to Dunlay's On The Square, which is a decent at best, though acceptable place to kill 30 minutes.

When I went last Saturday, they quoted me an hour wait. I went next door, had a beer, and about 30 minutes later the doorman gave me a rang, and I walked right over.

I know yelp has it critics here, but the reviews for Billy Sunday (on yelp) actually made me laugh out loud a few times - so I though others may enjoy the read, if in a sarcastic mood:

Billy Sunday on Yelp

my favorite is the guy that says, "ironically naming a bar? stupid. they should have named it "the better-than-you, flannel shirt, not that interesting, mustache lounge"

I've never seen a place so criticized for making too much effort to be creative, and perhaps being a little too popular

_________________
Love what I'm Doing, Doing what I love - Cooking hardwood smoked BBQ 6 days/week
http://www.backcountryq.com

There's probably a somewhat interesting story to be written about the publicity campaign for this place - you don't get Details (ugh) to name you one of the Best New Bars in America before you've even opened without doing some spadework.

From all the descriptions - on LTHF & the ever-reliable Yelp - it does seem the place could best be described as "hoity-toity". However - newsflash to Frank Bruni et al - nobody's making me go there.

I might, though. I just might go there and order a Schlitz.

Just to be ironic.

_________________
fine words butter no parsnips

I've been there twice, neither time was crowded because one it was like -14 windchill outside and the other was during the Super Bowl and it was just me and ten (other? I"m not sure yet) hipsters. I was pleased that I could have two drinks each time, which must mean they are not too strong since I am the size of the average 15-year-old. I also shared some of my friend's drinks. I had the Kent, which is a barrel-aged pre-made cocktail that is very light and refreshing. My male friend enjoyed the extremely bitter Victorian and I did not. I was more into Against The Bliss, which I was worried would be too sweet based on the description, but it was very balanced. I also adored the tart creamy In Word & In Deed. The chef made pimento cheese when I was there during the Super Bowl, which sated a craving for these garish cheese product that I've been afflicted with lately. It was a really nice one with ample amounts of crispy pickles, probably the best I've had in the city. I also had the liver jar, which was not that memorable. There was not enough bread though and we had to buy extra bread which was $2. I loved the retro diningwear they served everything in. I can't speak to the pretentiousness of this place because I have been told I am pretentious and therefore might be unqualified to determine whether things are pretentious, but I enjoyed myself and the bill was certainly less than in many other similar places. The bartenders were friendly and my friend got one dealer's choice calvados cocktail that was spicy and fragrant.

_________________
- melissa

Melissa - I love your posts and this may be the best line from all of them.

Ditto!!!!!!

_________________
“The problem with people who have no vices is that generally you can be pretty sure they’re going to have some pretty annoying virtues.” Elizabeth Taylor

x3! I had been told that Billy Sunday was "fussy", but that wasn't my experience. We stopped in for pre-dinner drinks at about 8:00 on a Sunday, and there was plenty of room at the bar and several open tables. Alex enthusiastically entertained all of our odd questions about the herbs and spices in the jars above the bar. When I jokingly asked whether he ever made a "suicide" out of the on-tap tonics, he regretfully admitted no, "but we are going to try it right now!" It packed a punch of flavors, unfolding like the three course meal in Willy Wonka gum. Totally worth it.

Speaking of, the two tonics - the Aquinas and the Kent - were, hands down, our favorite drinks of the night. Refreshing and balanced, I could see myself getting hammered on these on a summer afternoon without ever knowing what hit me. The Ramon nut in the Aquinas in particular gave it unexpected depth and was, for me, a unique experience in a cocktail. I would go back to Billy Sunday for these drinks alone.

The other cocktails we tried skewed sweet for my taste. I had the Victorian, which came with a warning about its bitterness. I like a good bitter cocktail, but this one was just too much bitter unsuccessfully offset by too much sweet, with not much else to make it interesting. In hindsight, I should have started with something safer. But now that I know about the tonics, I'll find it difficult to order anything else!