LTHForum.com

aschie30: What he said. Not to mention, I was just about to make an obligatory "de gustibus" post back to Greasy Spoon, anyway, because it's pretty clear that all the ink spilled by me and Greasy Spoon (mainly by me) really comes down to whose chicken we happen to like better. I like Lula's better than GS does. Moreover, if I could find Lula's chicken served for $4.00 less, but without the service, place settings, etc., I am sure I'd buy it at least occasionally, especially on those days when I just don't feel like the whole restaurant experience.

On a more general note, those who read my last post, or any post I have made about Lula, with care, will see I've been among the harshest critics -- and the strongest supporters -- of Lula. I have done what I can to draw out, and not discourage, reasoned responses from folks like Greasy Spoon, who have valuable insights to add. That, too, should be apparent from the above. I have had my sanity, and now my civility, questioned in that pursuit ( ), but I am surprised to think anyone would be so easily intimidated by the stuff I or others write here that they would not post a dissent. There has been some spirited debate, but no ad hominem attacks in this thread, and the mods would have pulled them if there had been. So there, ya big poopy head! (Oops)

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JiLS

Hey, if you manage to find the same Gunthorp's Farm naturally raised chicken that Lula uses for $4 less in another Chicago restaurant, I'm sure that all of the bargain hunters here would appreciate hearing about it.

E.M.

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"Don't even touch my gold, I'm good."

One of the goals of the LTH board should be to help each of us order well or better at least. Restaurants and chefs excel hopefully at some things, maybe not so well at others. It is a responsibility of posters to shed light on those differences.

My wife and I order a very similar menu the first time we go to any Chinese restaurant. Pot stickers, egg roll, something not spicy, and wildest thing on the menu (one reason I like Triple Crown) or at least something I've never had before. It is what we ordered first time we went to LTH the restaurant. Pot stickers were smaller than average, drier, and came with no sauce. Egg rolls were indistinct from the usual cabbagey Chicago egg rolls which I think in general are not very good. My wife had seafood in that egg white sauce that was good but awfully bland. My crab in vermicelli noodles (what my kids call snot noodles) was bountious, but maybe the single hardest to eat food I've ever had. G Wiv, see why I consider LTH an average restaurant? I just ordered badly, choosing things that in my opinion LTH is not good at. Subsequently after paying closer attention to G Wiv posts, I discovered salt and pepper shrimp at LTH, among the best Chinese dishes I've ever had in Chicago. I still don't think that LTH is a great restaurant (hey, opinions vary) compared to others in Chinatown, but thanks to good advice, I don't order as badly there anymore.

What is disturbing about the Lula discussions is how little information about what not to order the regular posters contribute. What we need is hawkeye acuity to find those Buckeye acorns of insight as to what to,and not, order. Unfortunately any mention of even the slightest aspersion is met with a lion attack worthy of a wolverine protecting its lair. One could say as some do, that just shows that all the food there is beyond reproach; more likely some don't want to jump in and face a probable wildcat attack. While moderators may assume no personal attack, the usual response is so boilermaker in nature you'd have to be a Spartan to not react. Unfortunately some people insist on being the chief. My gripe is not actually with the chief though-you know what the chief is going to say. What bothers me more are the gophers on the board who won't respond for not wanting to be brought into the fray expecting responses more suitable a badger. When the chief claims, then insists, that pork bellies are red meat;then answers a question directed to someone else; then posts such a glowing review Tramonto would blush;followed by some fairly personal attacks, questioning what are mostly opinions; then justifications ad infinitum;what are the rest of you guys, Hoosiers or hosers?

We need more hawkeyes. We need more G Wivs to help us not order badly.

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"In the land of the pigs, the butcher is king." Jim Steinman

I'm not sure how many different time or how many different ways I can say it: There are few restaurants in the city that roast fowl better than Lula. Whether it is duck, chicken, stuffed quail, or what have you, these are the most successful items on Lula's menu. I think the brunch menu is weak and I don't care for many of the regular menu items (besides the chicken).

I hope this helps people order better at Lula in the future.

As it was said up-thread: differing opinions are what make LTHForum interesting.

I do not believe there have been any personal attacks in this thread, but an honest exchange of opinions about food and value. If you think there have been attacks, please bring them to the attention of a moderator.

Also, we are starting to veer into the direction of personal feelings getting bruised and everyone should step back and take a deep breath. We know that some people like to eat at Lula and some others don't. We know that some people find it to be a good value, and others don't. Let's get back to talking about the food.

Best,
Michael

Why do the hawkeyes fail to recognize that they are not gophers?

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"In the land of the pigs the butcher is king." Jim Steinman

MLS,

I was responding to this quote of yours. I think there is significant information in this thread.

Best,
Michael

Oh please won't the jayhawk of clarity rescue me from this naked mole rat's nest of bestial confusion?

I thought I was quite clear in that regard, although I am probably less enthused about anything on the menu than the Lula-lovers seem to be.

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Steve Z.
Photographer/Pseudojournalist

"The only time to eat diet food is while you’re waiting for the steak to cook." - Julia Child

Hawkeyes? Gophers? I thought we were arguing about chicken.

Oh well.

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-Josh

I've started blogging about the Stuff I Eat

All meat is fair game on LTH forum! Not too gamey, though...

I've never been there, but I do know that when I do, I will either love Love LOVE or hate Hate HATE the Pasta Yia Yia

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Leek
SAVING ONE DOG MAY NOT CHANGE THE WORLD, BUT IT CHANGES THE WORLD FOR THAT ONE DOG.
American Brittany Rescue always needs foster homes. Please think about helping that one dog.
http://www.americanbrittanyrescue.org

Hey, I really like brunch at Lula! I order same thing every time I go - basically a bean/egg combo with some kind of carb (tortilla/corn cake/polenta), a crema garnish (flavored or not), and some kind of chile (eg pasilla), served in a wide shallow bowl. I usually get a breast of Gunthorp chicken on the side -- at $4.00 it is the bargain of the morning -- and I'm done eating for the day. I'm a fan of mushy breakfast, so this is perfect for me.

As Lula is a 5 minute walk from my house, I'm there pretty frequently. The only thing I've been truly underwhelmed by is the yogurt they use in their morning menu. Otherwise I've been happy...and especially pleased with the roasted chicken.

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CONNOISSEUR, n. A specialist who knows everything about something and nothing about anything else.
-Ambrose Bierce, The Devil's Dictionary

www.cakeandcommerce.com

Sure, I accept honorable and genuine discourse. But on more than one occasion, LTH has been accused (by people other than me) that any opposition (well-reasoned or not) to a "board favorite" restaurant is met with (ahem) vehement, shall we say, opposition.

My point is that any rational person reading parts of thread could come to this conclusion. Why play to that viewpoint by defending it?

Harshest critic? Say what?! You had me at the de gustibus . . . I wish you stopped there.

I guess I, like Eatchicago, see an important distinction between "vigorous opposition" and "intolerant opposition." Ten people love a place, you say you don't, I don't see why you expect to make ten converts just for saying that. Have the courage of your convictions, relish the role of gadfly, and give yourself a pat on the back for helping fight groupthink-- but don't be hurt that the other ten didn't roll over the moment you said your piece.

Mike,
who isn't sure why anyone is bruised in this thread because to his mind everyone is right-- Lula IS a reasonably priced "nice" neighborhood place AND it is overrated in many ways AND you can get really good chicken cheaper at South American places AND it won't be a Gunthorp bird and so on....

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Watch Sky Full of Bacon, the Chicago food HD podcast!
New episode: Soil, Corn, Cows and Cheese
Watch the Reader's James Beard Award-winning Key Ingredient here.

I agree. And to be a little more direct, I will not apologize for discussing my opinion as it relates to someone else's differing opinion.

No one ever should.

Best,
Michael
who is still waiting for someone to privately send him an example of a personal attack in this thread

That's not at all what I'm saying. To be perfectly clear myself, I never said that one dissenting voice will "convert" the ten people who love a place. Or that one should be "hurt" when the others were not converted.

However, what I did talk about was "vehement" (as opposed to "vigorous") opposition. To my mind, vigorous opposition is spirited and focused on adding something to the debate, but which, at some point, accepts that people will never agree on the price of tea in China, and leaves it at that. If you're already on record for liking xyz restaurant, then maybe there is nothing more to add to the debate. This is distinct from vehement opposition, which is overly aggressive and not likely to lead anywhere.

Like it or not, its the vehement type of response which plays into the hands of those who accuse LTH of not accepting dissenting voices. Maybe there should be more toleration of the one dissenting view than the ten vehement posters who are already on record ad nauseum of liking a place.*

*That is not to say that the lone dissenter should not expect a response to his or her post, but the response should be more vigorous and spirited, rather than vehement.

A recent evening found me, Mrs. JiLS and GAF enjoying a nice little repast at Lula:

Rutabaga Soup



Served with black truffle butter, celery root and a shot of vanilla, this is one of the better fall/winter soups I've come across this year. The flavor profile goes nicely with a bourbon Manhattan, which is how we enjoyed it on this occasion, too.

Country Pate



A bit skimpy in the presentation, and despite the good flavor of the greens and caramelized sun chokes presented with this dish (mysteriously and excessively adorned with a pile of panko crumbs), I almost would've preferred traditional sweet pickles and some bread. However, the shining star of this dish is the manchego cheese-filled date, which is worth the price of admission on its own, at least to my taste. I'm sure it's just my provincialism in action here, but I've never heard of or tasted this dish before, and it is just great. I wish they sold it by the dozen.

Pasta Yia Yia



Love it or hate it, Mrs. JiLS ate it this evening. Right noodles, right spices, wrong cheese ... it is what it is. I don't like it at all, but de gustibus.

Ancho-glazed Acorn Squash



This was GAF's entree, and I didn't sample it, but he seemed very pleased with it. Served with a buckwheat pancake, Brussels sprouts, chanterelles, escarole, maple, and p.x. sherry vinegar. What this photo does not well represent is the total 3-D design of this dish; the carved slices of squash were arranged like a Noguchi coffee table. A good example of Lula's dedication to the vegetarian diner.

Pappardelle Bolognese



Here's a remarkable dish that I've eaten and enjoyed very much now on two occasions. The pasta is freshly made in-house, and it shows; this is some of the most delectable, toothsome, flavorful pasta I've ever enjoyed. The sauce is made from some part or another of Lula's veal calf (the chef explained to me on another visit that they had bought a grass-fed organic veal calf carcass and were working hard to find recipes to use it all up). The meat on this dish is more like ground beef than the sort of shredded beef I would have expected, but the flavor is great (the pecorino shave on top is a nice addition) and it is hard to argue with success, so I'll say I like this one.

Chocolate Tart



This item has dropped off the menu since our visit, and good riddance. Really boring, the tart shell tasted more or less like a Nabisco chocolate wafer, the filling was just boring chocolate goo, and the creme anglaise topping was good, but still just creme anglaise. So, not something I would have recommended.

Lavender Panna Cotta



Here's the killer Lula dessert du jour. Even recognizing my prejudice in favor of any food containing lavender (a habit ingrained from knocking back the lavender martinis at the bar of the Redwood Room in San Francisco's Clift Hotel), even someone who only loves good dessert would be well advised to check out this one. The panna cotta demonstrated the perfect blend of solid and liquid, with a subtly rich flavor, that I look for in this dessert. Very tasty end to our meal with GAF. Hopefully he will provide more detail on his impressions; he is a much more convincing writer.

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JiLS

Important Notice:

On the off chance the above posting has inspired anyone to visit Lula, before you waste a trip and blame me, please note Lula will be closed through the New Year, reopening January 5th.

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JiLS

I only wish that I had the time this year that I had last year to write extensive reviews. But in short order, I place Lula in a similar category with Magnolia Cafe. Both are the type of neighborhood restaurants that help create a vibrant culinary community. Neither are three star restaurants, but they don't need to be to be thoroughly enjoyable. I am envious of Jim and Susan for having this as their neighborhood place. (Mine is fRedhots).

The Rutabaga Soup was quite fine. Not as silky smooth as the most polished liquids, but with a lovely truffly essence and a startling shot of vanilla. It was a Jim pointed out a professional and proud winter starter.

Of the main courses, I was particularly impressed with Jim's Pappardelle Bolognese. I last had PB at Babbo and thought that Lula's was richer and more buttery (note: I have been fairly critical of my Batali meals). I did enjoy my Ancho-Glazed Acorn Squash. It was superior as a piece of culinary architecture, and might have been transcendent with
a bit of Berkshire pork, but vegetarian it was. The blini was nicely prepared, and the maple added an autumnal richness.

The lavender panna cotta was appropriately smooth and rich. Like Jim, I treasure lavender. Lavender is the foie gras of herbs. Perhaps the dessert didn't startle, but it pleased. It was a sweet and generously caloric conclusion.

Lula is a successful two-star restaurant with a price point that makes being a regular feasible. One need not strive to be a celebrity chef to produce creative and thoughtful dishes for one's neighbors and friends.

Several years ago I had a few friends who lived in the area - and I'd go there from time to time and like it.

However, my last experience was one that makes me never want to return there - and I regret I didn't contact the management. (This occurred a couple years ago)

My wife had a private meeting with a friend nearby - so I went for lunch alone - and sat at the "bar". After all but being ignored by the waitress (I clearly wasn't "hip" enough), I paid with cash - and she gave me change for a $10 when I gave her a $20. I had previously refilled a literally completely empty wallet at an ATM - so I KNEW I was correct.

She reacted the same way - saying "It was IMPOSSIBLE" I paid gave her a $20 - I forget her exact words - but basically made me feel like I was cheating her. (And after I insisted she did give me the proper change)

Perhaps someone else's payment got messed up - and she was short in her bank - or someting else happened that wasn't her fault, but she is in a SERVICE industry - and no customer should ever be left feeling the way she treated me - and again - this is after giving me TERRIBLE service.

Granted - this could happen anywhere - and in hindsight, I SHOULD have talked to a manager - but it was an experience I personally find unforgivable and will never go there again.

The question of when to blame a restaurant for the error of a server is a difficult one. Some restaurants - like the Danny Meyer restaurants in New York (Union Square Cafe, 11 Madison Park, Grammercy Cafe) are known for their serving. The Meyer creed is to do whatever it takes to makes the customer happy. Presumably this server did not learn (or was not taught) this mantra. To fight over $10 and lose a customer is a poor deal, even IF you were not legitimate. Perhaps service is not her speciality, but the management should have been told if it mattered enough for you never to return.

Since there was no photo, we can't judge your hipness factor for ourselves. But given that Jim, Susan, and I were served hippness can't matter too much, or perhaps I should just speak for myself. Susan is kinda hip. No comment on JiLS.

No comment required. I was more hip 20 years ago, however, when I was a student philosopher and produced performance art shows and listened to Laurie Anderson. Now, it's enough effort just to get out of bed.

More seriously, Fuzzbone, I can only sympathize with your lousy experience. Getting into a fight with a customer is pretty much the definition of poor restaurant service, even if the waitress is far hipper than you are (which for me is usually the case). However, as I and others have noted before, the service level at Lula has been quite variable over the years, often inexcusably bad, but trending toward more professionalism and greater consistency in the last year or two -- i.e., since your fateful visit. Part of this has to do with the hiring of a more stable and mature group of professional staff during that time, part of it has to do with the general maturation of Lula toward a more serious restaurant and away from it's "roots" as a hipster hangout.

Of course, I never go to Lula at lunch (too far from my soulless Loop office tower), so for all I know, maybe the surly and mopey artist/waitrons are still working the day shift. But you may want to consider going back at dinner. And there's an excellent chance the hip waitress who ruined your lunch has completed her MFA and moved on to greater things.

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JiLS

Tonight, for the first time - I had dinner at Lula Cafe, and I enjoyed it immensely. Thanks to those of you who've been recommending the place.

There were three of us. Shared appetizers were the "Ivory Salmon" and "Feta Cheese" selections (two very different choices). The salmon was large enough to be an entree - it's that generous a portion. The feta cheese was some of the best tasting I've ever enjoyed - and the bread choices which accompanied it were great (why not provide more of that during the dinner, h4 asks?).

Entree's were the "nettles" whatever salad, a chicken dish and the whitefish. The chicken and whitefish were excellent and the "nettles" was okay - not much to fuss over, though.

A bottle of grenache rose wine accompanied the meal. Dessert was a banana creme pie. The "cream" on the pie was lacking in flavor, but the meat of the pie was rich in banana flavor. My espresso seemed too quickly prepared, but the Sambuca made it all right.

We arrived at the restaurat at 6 p.m. and were quickly seated inside; the quote of wating time for outdoor seating was one hour. Customers inside seemed very "suburban" and I sensed they were appreciative of their surroudings and their meals; the vibes were most excellent. Street parking was easy to find.

Appetizers, wine, entree's, desserts, and after dinner fare - cost per person was about $45 (not including tip).

A certain percentage of Lula's patrons now consist of trust fund babies and those who established the trust funds and come to visit their offspring in the 'hood. Some, like Dave Hammond, are proud parents with hard working kids who for whatever perverse reason have chosen Logan Square to live in. The rest are just folks or neighbors.

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JiLS

The Wife and oldest daughter went today and raved about it. The Wife especially enjoyed her French toast with marscapone and a strawberry-rhubard sauce in a pool of what she assessed as creme Anglaise.

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“We all have to stand before the kitchen gods.” Chef Jacob Sahaya Kumar Aruni

I wonder -- since most of the recent Lula reviews are overwhelmingly positive -- is it possible to change the subject line of this thread ('Lula Cafe -- I suddenly get it!' or some such)? I know and understand why we're encouraged to post on existing threads, but every time I see this one I wince a little, like a punch in the arm can't be far behind.

I live in the neighborhood and credit Lula with some of the best meals I've had in my 6 years here -- but I also really appreciate what they've done to support local farms and sustainable growing methods. In some ways they helped to start that conversation in Chicago, so in addition to a lovely meal, the multiplier benefits help a body sleep easy at night.

Sidebar for those who live in or around Logan Square: it looks like Lula's going to be making some prepared food for the Farmer's Market (Sundays from 10-3). I really want our little market to survive, so hopefully neighborhood folks will come out and support it.

Christy

For what it's worth, I'm sure that the tide will change from pro-Lula's back the other way before too long. I'm a big, big fan of Lula's, though I can see why others may be underwhelmed. I find their cafe standards generally tasty, if not anything spectacular. Reliable and wholly satisfying, but not anything spectacular.

The specials, however, can be outstanding. Or they can be misses. I had their Monday Night Farm Fresh dinner back in March supporting the Slow Food Movement. And... amazingly, that menu is still online (did they lose their web editor)? The menu as posted:
sunchoke and spring vegetable soup

salad of braised spring lamb and city farm greens
crispy buckwheat crepe, mustard vinaigrette

spring lamb, in variations
green garlic ricotta tart

sweet cornmeal and rhubarb cake
vanilla mascarpone ice cream

As I recall, the salad also included some steak tartare. Everything was perfectly wonderful, though I think I found the dessert a little dry (by the way, if anyone goes soon and the goat cheese crepes are still on the menu -- get them!!, as they were wonderful when I had them a few weeks back). And it was a bargain at only $40. Service was excellent, and our wait time? Nothing, we walked right in.

What I like most about Lula's is how flexible it is. One friend can get a three-course dinner topping out at $40 where another can stick with a turkey sandwich, and a third person can hit somewhere in the middle. The bar can get a little crowded when you wait, but the drinks are usually good (if they have it again, avoid the wild ramp gibson) and their beers are often interesting and well-priced, too.

If someone was in town only for a couple of days, I don't know that I would send them there before anywhere else. But if it was a random weeknight, certainly if it were a Monday night, and I wanted a nice dinner near me, I can't think of anywhere else I'd rather go.

No. It is not possible to change the title of this thread. I still have the same feelings about Lula that I did when I posted in the first place. I still don't get it, despite having tried it again. You can start another thread with your own title if you want.

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Steve Z.
Photographer/Pseudojournalist

"The only time to eat diet food is while you’re waiting for the steak to cook." - Julia Child

Since we are still talking about Lula, I am going to take the opportunity to throw my two cents in.

I seem to embody most emotions on this forum somehow: I have a quintessential love/hate relationship to Lula Cafe. I love that I can walk to such a good restaraunt. I hate the service, and the fact that there is no other option.

I've had many lovely meals at Lula and I eat there about once a week out of convenience. Usually I have brunch. The tofu scramble is excellent - with a gingery sauce, spinach and peppers, it's actually flavorful rather than grimly healthy. As an east-coast transplant, I want to get on my knees and thank them for having authentic maple syrup. The more exotic brunch special are usually a good bet - except for the french toast, which is always dry. If I want french toast I go to the greasy spoon next door - they make absolutely perfect moist in the middle diner french toast, a lost art. Get your coffee at Lula's and give it a try.

Lunch recommendations include the tineka sandwich - a suprising combination of fresh vegetables, sprouts, and a drippy "indonesian peanut sauce" on bread, the blt - and I've even developed a taste for their vegetarian sushi, though I can't recommend it.

I eat dinner there rarely, but I would recommend a special over the regular "right hand" side of the menu. I always love the cheese plate with pan forte, and the meat based-main dishes. The soups can be a bit bland despite being poured from a pitcher over a mound of butter (usually) with a flourish. For dessert, don't order the banana cream pie or carrot cake - they are both good, but the dessert specials, particularly when they incorporate fruit or herbal flavors (lavendar panna cotta, poached pear) are amazing, and often the best part of the meal.

Now for my complaint about Lula, beyond the fact I am obviously dependent on them.

I have only had good service from one waiter and the very nice bartender there. The gaggle of hipsters hanging around at the bar are often made up of most of the waitstaff, and they like to linger there and not look at you during your meal (or brunch - if you want a second cup of coffee, get ready to suffer caffeine withdrawal before it comes). This is true at dinner too if you aren't fortunate enough to get the one nice waiter (I should remember his name).

There is one in particular who has the ability to sour my experience any day. I only single her out (without identifying her) because her service is so terrible and not befitting any restaraunt with Lula's aims. She has the "I can't wait to get back to my real life" art student glare perfected (and I am an art student so I can recognize it well). She seems utterly uninterested in food and can barely answer questions about the menu. An typical exchange: "Can you tell me about the sorrel custard?" "Its sorrel..... in a custard". This is not just a case of her disliking me - I've heard the same exchange with a frustrated customer next to me, involving several rounds. I think it's her obvious lack of involvement in the food that really ruins my meal - I would love to know ahead of time, for example, that the sorrell custard is tasteless frothy green mush (the worst thing I've had at Lula - don't try it!). Or that a dish is particularly well liked, even if she hasn't tried it. I have honestly wondered if she is related to the owner because I cannot understand why anyone would allow someone like that to represent their restaurant.

And while I am not particularly invested in having my waiters pretend they are having a good time rather than working, it becomes very clear when they are having an awful time every single time. ... I have never once seen her crack a smile at anyone, ever. I wouldn't want her to have to grin maniacally at everyone, but it does, over time, distinguish her.

It was only recently, when I was listening to a rerun I had heard before of This American Life, that a lightbulb went on: http://www.thisamericanlife.org/Radio_E ... sched=1177
show 245, a must-listen for everyone who loves or hates Lula.

And for those who think I have a specific vendetta against the one poor waitress I've singled out, let me say that the other servers' demeanors are simply variations on the theme, though they are all baseline competent if a bit slow on refills. And if you really don't believe me, listen to the show!