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My New Orleans picks in April
Thursday: La Provence
Friday: Herbsaint
Saturday: NOLA
Sunday: Commanders Palace
Good and bad opinions welcome.
Wanted to fit Bayona in but ran out of days.

Have not been to La Provence but if it is anything like Restaurant August you are in for a huge treat. I would skip NOLA unless you want to go to a tired dumbed down touristy Emeril's Greates Hits-type place. When compared to Emeril's and Nola in the early nineties, the place is now an embarrasment.

I am assuming you are eating at Commander's for brunch so you can hit Galatoires for dinner on Saturday night if you are interested in classic creole cuisine. You cant go wrong with Bayona. I also like Gautreau's. Do a search for past write ups.

I love Galatoires, but though they may call themselves "French Creole," I think the place has barely a whif of Creole cooking. Where Galatoires shines is in pristine, simply prepared seafood with classic, perfectly executed mother sauces. I hate jacket-required places, but Galatoires is the one place where I make an exception. It just feels right there.

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...defended from strong temptations to social ambition by a still stronger taste for tripe and onions." Screwtape in The Screwtape Letters by CS Lewis

Fuckerberg on Food

I would substitute Bayona for NOLA. Don't get me wrong...I've never had a bad meal at NOLA, but it can be a loud, crazy madhouse. Bayona is still amazing after all these years and has a more civilized atmosphere. It's also a great place for a long, leisurely lunch. Chef Spicer's garlic soup and smoked duck sandwich are legendary.

I've never been to La Provence, but been to all the others. My favorite, after all these years, is still Commander's.

Though iblock9 assumes you're doing brunch at Commander's Palace, I'd suggest you dine there for dinner, if at all possible. I'm sure brunch is lovely, but at Commander's Palace, dinner is splendid.

I do think that one can fit in more than one great place a day, if one makes the effort. Just have an early lunch and then walk it off. K-Paul for duck and andouille gumbo is a dandy lunch stop. Or do late breakfast at Brennan's -- big omelette and banana's foster make a great breakfast. You can skip lunch, but you'll be famished by dinner -- and you will have added another famous restaurant to your check list.

So you don't have to just go to one restaurant a day.

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"Nothing important is easy." Patrick White (Australian Nobel laureate)

http://waltzingaustralia.wordpress.com

Brennan's is, IMHO, a tourist trap of the highest order. There are a million good breakfasts in NO at a fraction of the price. BTW I love Commander's for dinner, I guessed Commanders was a brunch as it was her last day and a sunday but if I am wrong you will be a-ok anyway.

Yeah -- but Brennan's is a part of NOLA history -- especially if one orders bananas Foster (which are good, and not too costly). Just because there's not a lot of history on the restaurant list.

And I guessed you might have been figuring brunch because of its being a Sunday -- and I actually suspected that you were correct in that guess. But I'm always surprised to find how many people don't even consider Commander's Palace for dinner (and some who don't even realize that dinner is a possibility). And while I'm sure brunch is lovely, dinner is so great, I want everyone to know and aim for at least one evening meal at the Palace. But I'm sure brunch is better than not going.

Of course, there have been at least a couple of other discussions on where to eat in New Orleans -- so no matter what list one comes up with, there are going to be a gazillion places one doesn't get to on any given single visit. But one can keep trying.

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"Nothing important is easy." Patrick White (Australian Nobel laureate)

http://waltzingaustralia.wordpress.com

First off, hoppy is a he. Always planned on making Commanders a dinner. Have dropped La Provence(no car, across the pond) and have subbed Restaurant August. Wanted to go to Stella! but it's earliest opening is 8:45p. Just a tad late as we want to be seated by eight every night. Am considering moving Herbsaint to Friday and subbing Emerils for NOLA. Yes we are sentimental toward Emeril. Have always had good meals at his places including one of the best meals of our lives at Delmonico about ten years ago. The Saturday night dinner will be a celebration as I turn 50 and my sister(from Baton Rouge area) turned 60 in Feb. Have not seen her in a year. We will be a group of four since we have to bring our spouses lol!. This is our 4th trip to N.O. in 13 years of marriage. Your right that you just can't hit all the good restaurants no matter how one tries to narrow the list down. And, it seems that they keep opening more. The late brunch/skip lunch is a good idea with one small flaw...muffalettas, po' boys, fried oysters and all the other yummy stuff. If it wasn't for July and August I'd just move to y'alls neck of the woods.
P.S. Have been to Galitoire's, Brennan's and others. It's not that I don't enjoy "history" or a return visit, I just like to spread the love and wealth around. That's why Commander's is on the list. I can't believe that we've never made it there.

Cynthia,

I couldn't agree more. Dinner at Commander's Palace is one of the truly great joys in life.

Commander's Palace at Night


Although Commander's sustained heavy damage during Katrina, the Brennan's have brought it back to life with a beautiful makeover that began with a down-to-the-studs rehab. Unfortunately, they were unable to match the original dark wood in the dining room, so instead of doing a half assed patch job, they opted for completely new lighter colored wood for the rehab, while still maintaining the look and feel of the original room.

Commander's Palace Main Dining Room


Even if you're not lucky enough to be seated on the main floor (although you should asked to be), a trip upstairs takes you past 3 of Commander's Palace's James Beard Awards, proudly displayed where everyone can see them.

Commander's Palace James Beard Awards


One dish that I never miss when dining at Commander's is the pecan crusted drum (sometimes trout, depending on the catch of the day). That is a dish that's been served since the days when Paul Prudhomme was at the helm and is something I've never been able to get anywhere else.

Commander's Palace Pecan Crusted Drum


Of course, the classic finish to any meal there is Bananas Foster, expertly prepared table side.

Commander's Palace Bananas Foster


One of the side benefits of the post-Katrina rehab is a sparkling new kitchen. If you happen to be a smoker like the Chow Poodle, you have to walk right through the kitchen on the way to the lovely smoking garden. If not, ask for a kitchen tour at the end of your meal. They're happy to oblige nearly any request, a hallmark of the hospitality at Commander's Palace.

Commander's Palace Kitchen

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Steve Z.
Photographer/Pseudojournalist

"The only time to eat diet food is while you’re waiting for the steak to cook." - Julia Child

Beautiful pics, can't wait!
I want to stress that the Saturday night dinner will be about fun. We certainly want to be well fed and fed well. We want awesome service and we want to have a really enjoyable all-around experience.

All of your picks sound good, but you've just described Commander's to a tee. To me, it's the most special upscale place to eat in New Orleans (and that's saying a lot!)

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Steve Z.
Photographer/Pseudojournalist

"The only time to eat diet food is while you’re waiting for the steak to cook." - Julia Child

Place looks better than ever. Good to see that the insurance money covered a new ceiling. I remember thinking the shabby drop ceiling tiles pre-Katrina were a real drag. I figure the original ceiling was very nice but either wrecked or unable to accommodate the HVAC.

I love Bananas Foster but, to me, the Bread Pudding Souffle is one of the joys of life.

The crawfish etouffee at Commanders is the best thing I have eaten in New Orleans, follow it with the bread pudding souffle and you can't go wrong.

Thursday: August
Friday: Emerils
Saturday: Herbsaint
Sunday: Commanders
These are my FINAL dinner ANSWERS
Sorry Brigsten's, Bayona, Stella!, Patois and all others. Now...lets do lunch
Muffaletta: Central Grocery(FINAL ANSWER)
Po'boys: need suggestions
Oysters: ditto
Crawfish boil: ditto
Sunday Brunch: ditto
Staying in the Quarter, no car, no travel. Walking distance/trolly distance only.
If you recommend an oyster place, what else do they do well? SO doesn't do oysters. It took me five years to get her to eat snails which she now devours but the O's are a nono.
Thanks.

They had water nearly up to the ceiling on the 2nd floor (which still has the original ceiling with the dental moulding). Everyting was stripped down to the rafters and redone except for the 2nd floor ceiling.

Commander's Palace Second Floor Dining Room

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Steve Z.
Photographer/Pseudojournalist

"The only time to eat diet food is while you’re waiting for the steak to cook." - Julia Child

Had a wonderful meal at August last year at this time. I doubt you'll be disappointed.

My favorite po' boy joint in the Quarter is Johnny's. For the daily 4:30 pm oyster break, I usually head to Acme and sit at the bar. For non-oyster lovers, they have some good sandwiches and fried seafood. My husband goes crazy over their "boo fries" (their variation on poutine).

A great place for breakfast/brunch is Petunia's.

Crawfish boils are generally a residential/party thing, but you can find some restaurants that offer boiled crawfish. Felix (across the street from Acme) often has boiled crawfish in season.

For really great fried stuff, and a wicked jambalaya, there's Coop's on Decatur near the French Market.

Hubby and I are headed to NOLA March 12-15 for St. Joseph's Day. This year, since he just lost his job and my business is slow (the hotel and air were bought and paid for months ago), we're gonna eat on the cheap. It broke my heart to cancel the Chef's Table reservation at Commander's for Friday night.

Every time we're in N.O. we have lunch at the French Market Restaurant(by coincidence, across from the French Market) and order a heaping platter of boiled crawfish. Delicious! We prefer Felix Oyster Bar, but just as many prefer Acme. I believe Mother's will be the pick for a poboy. Don't necessarily count out a warm muffaletta and Pimm's Cup at Napolean House.

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"I feel sorry for people who don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day." Frank Sinatra

If August has a bone marrow preparation, don't miss it. When I was there last summer, the bones had been slow smoked all day, then served with toasts and a spicy peach compote. Stunningly good.

_________________
...defended from strong temptations to social ambition by a still stronger taste for tripe and onions." Screwtape in The Screwtape Letters by CS Lewis

Fuckerberg on Food

Po'boys: Mahoney's- Magazine & one block off Louisiana. Delicious, and a short walk from the streetcar.
Oysters: Casamento's- also on Magazine, and they do anything seafood and fried well, for your SO.
Crawfish boil: never done it at a restaurant, wouldn't really recommend it.


Staying in the Quarter, no car, no travel. Walking distance/trolly distance only.
If you recommend an oyster place, what else do they do well? SO doesn't do oysters. It took me five years to get her to eat snails which she now devours but the O's are a nono.

Not a trolley. A streetcar. Don't say trolley when you get here.

Po'Boy: Domilese's is a new orleans classic
Oysters: Casamento's on Magazine and Napoleon (take the streetcar) Caution: Limited hours
Crawfish: Franky & Johnnys (most of the best crawfish places are on the best bank)
Brunch: Used to love the Bluebird on Prytania. Still gets lots of love

These are all a cab ride from the quarter. You can take the street car uptown to most of these places and then grab a cab from St. Charles Ave. Use caution walking everywhere in NO especially if you are unfamiliar with the city. whats looks like a beautiful neighborhood when you get off the street car will quickly deteriorate. I have had a gun pointed at me in some of the best neighborhoods in New Orleans. Extra caution is always advised.

I was just there this weekend. We stayed at my friend's family house in Uptown.

Day 1
Breakfast: Beignets and Coffee at Cafe du Monde
Pre-lunch: Grilled oysters at Felix's (Amazingly good!)
Lunch: 3-course meal at Bourbon House (Great service, but we knew the asst manager)
Mid afternoon snack: Shrimp Po-boys from Guy's Po-boys (Right around the corner from the house)
Dinner: Simple roast chicken, broccoli and brown rice at home (From the local grocery store)

Day 2
Breakfast: Biscuits and Gravy with a side of Fried Oysters at the Trolley Stop
Pre-lunch: 4 lbs of crawfish from Big Fisherman Seafood (brought it home, already boiled; perfect with an ice cold Coors Light)
Lunch: Fried Oyster Po-boy from Trolley Stop (It was that good!)
Dinner: Shrimp Creole, White Rice, Chicken and Andouille Stew, Red Velvet Cake at home (Thanks to Uncle Al!)

Addresses:

Cafe du Monde
800 Decatur Street
(504) 525-4544

Felix's
739 Iberville St
(504) 522-4440

Bourbon House
144 Bourbon St
(504) 522-0111

Guy's Po-boy
5259 Magazine St
(504) 891-5025

Trolley Stop
1923 Saint Charles Ave
(504) 523-0090

Big Fisherman Seafood
3301 Magazine Street (1 block from the Walgreens, there is a grocery store next door)
(504) 897-9907

Another place to consider for a casual breakfast or lunch (or a late night drunken snack) is The Camellia Grill. Take a ride on the St. Charles streetcar through the Garden District, and right when the car turns on to Carrollton (when we were there, that was the end of the line, but they may have opened up more of the track by now), hop off for some down-home diner food served up with Southern flair and a bit of sass.

St. Charles Street Car (Decorated for Mardi Gras)


The Camellia Grill




The Camellia Grill is staffed by friendly, interactive folks who are quick with a joke and a smile. It's very much in the mold of Moon's Sandwich Shop...only in a much nicer neighborhood. Notice the double grills. They can really crank out the food at The Camellia Grill!

The Camellia Grill Counterman


This place known for outstanding breakfast and lunch, but they stay open late* for post bar snackage. I am fond of their 30's style burgers so I ordered a cheeseburger and fries on this visit. Fries are of the food service variety, but are expertly cooked. Their shakes are pretty good, too.

The Camellia Grill Cheeseburger and Fries




The great burgers and omelets are reason enough to visit, but for me, they're just an excuse to have a piece of their house made pecan pie, warmed up on the flat top over a ladle-full's worth of butter. Ala Mode, of course.

Camellia Grill Pecan Pie Ala Mode


As a pecan pie chronicler, I can safely say that this is one of the better versions to be had anywhere on the planet. I've never tried anything else for dessert, but their other pies are highly regarded as well. Enjoy! Expect to wait during prime eating times.

* Check for current hours. When we visited, they were only open during the day, but had plans to reopen at night.

The Camellia Grill
626 S Carrollton Ave
New Orleans, Louisiana 70118
504-866-9573

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Steve Z.
Photographer/Pseudojournalist

"The only time to eat diet food is while you’re waiting for the steak to cook." - Julia Child

It's been a few years since we were in New Orleans, but a few thoughts...

I'll second the Franky & Johnny's recommendation above, especially for all things fried. You'll definitely need to arrange for a cab back to the French Quarter.

Upperline is nice for an upscale meal (you get get there from the Quarter via streetcar).

We did Mother's for Po'Boys and were very happy.

Call me crazy, but I didn't love Commander's Palace. For me, it was one of those places where I left saying "well, now I've been there, no need to go back". But, YMMV.

Upperline Restaurant
http://www.upperline.com
1413 Upperline St
(504) 891-9822

Mother's
http://www.mothersrestaurant.net
401 Poydras St
(504) 523-9656

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-Josh

I've started blogging about the Stuff I Eat

When you ask about oysters, are you thinking about the myriad cooked oyster dishes for which NOLA is famous? Antoine's is great for the majors (Bienville, Rockefeller -- and, in fact, Antoine's invented oysters Rockefeller), but the single best oyster dish I had in NOLA was at the Palace Cafe -- Louisiana oysters poached in rosemary cream with herb breadcrumbs, served in the roasting skillet. Yum.

Palace Cafe
605 Canal St
NOLA

At Commander's Palace, they always have their famous turtle soup, plus a soup du jour and a gumbo du jour. I'm not sure I could have decided on one, but I was saved by the "trio" option, where you get a smaller serving of all three. I recommend it -- because all three soups will be amazing.

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"Nothing important is easy." Patrick White (Australian Nobel laureate)

http://waltzingaustralia.wordpress.com

Have you considered Tujagues? 2nd-oldest resto in NO, right across from the Jax brewery.
It's been 20 years since I've been there, but I remember enjoying it very much.

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What is patriotism, but the love of good things we ate in our childhood?
-- Lin Yutang

I think the place has barely a whif of Creole cooking.

Galatoire's has been around since 1905 serving many of the same dishes today as it did back then. I believe Galatoire's is currently owned by the fourth generation of the original family. The family believes that they serve authentic French Creole Cuisine as do the locals and regulars. You obviously disagree and I am curious as to what background, credentials etc you may have to substantiate your claim as well as some examples of places that serve what you would consider to be authentic French Creole Cuisine .

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dreams are nothing more than wishes and a wish is just a dream you wish to come true
Harry Nilsson

No one has, so I will mention Cochon downtown. I thought it was very good.

For years, I have been trying top get folks to give Dollie's Deli to no avail. It's really nothing more than a glorified C Store out on Canal Boulevard next to the Fireman's Cemetery. What sets it apart are the great grandmotherly types frying up mounds of fresh seafood for the house made overflowing Po Boys that they serve. You're close enough to Lake Pontchatraine that you can grab it and go for a picnic or you can just sit down there at one of the simple laminated tables and enjoy.

Dollies Deli
5151 Canal Blvd

I've got a few pictures of some places that have already been mentioned upthread. I thought this would be a good place to post them.

Café du Monde




French Quarter Crawfish on the Street


Felix Oyster House Oysters Rockefeller


Felix Oyster House Shrimp Po boy


Random Bowl of Gumbo (Location Forgotten)

_________________
Steve Z.
Photographer/Pseudojournalist

"The only time to eat diet food is while you’re waiting for the steak to cook." - Julia Child