I spent some pleasant hours at Revolution Brewing in Logan Square last night, their first day in business. It's an attractive space, dominated by a large rectangular bar in the center and various seating areas around the periphery. A small alcove with a fireplace looked especially appealing. Be sure to admire the beautifully restored original tin ceiling.
They are currently serving five beers: mild, golden, pale ale, IPA and porter ($5-6 per pint). I enjoyed all but there's room for improvement. In today's my-beer's-bigger-than-yours brewing climate it's nice to see a mild (3.5% abv) on offer. That said, Revolution's version is a bit overhopped and overcarbonated for the style. A cask version of the mild is also available via hand pump but I didn't realize that until too late. Still, I found even the tap version to be a most drinkable beer. I was even more impressed with the golden. At some brewpubs these styles are throwaways, brewed for those who'd rather be drinking a Bud Light. Revolution's Cross of Gold reminded me of a less intense Duvel, with a subtlety lacking in their other beers. I look forward to sampling all of them again to see if my first impressions hold up.
I didn't try any food (their menu can be found
here) but some people around me at the bar seemed pleased. Hopefully someone can give a report over in Eating Out in Chicagoland.
One of Revolution's notable features is the almost total lack of televisions. There are a couple above the bar but they don't dominate the room (in fact only a few bar stools have a good view of the screen). They were showing the Blackhawks game (without sound) but turned off the TVs as soon as it was over. Excellent policy.
It seems to me Revolution is off to a great start. They're doing a lot right but there's room to grow. If only Chicago had another eight or ten similar places we could be considered a serious beer city.
Revolution Brewing
2323 N Milwaukee (near California Blue Line)
Chicago
773-227-BREW
http://revbrew.com/