LTHForum.com

A few weeks ago, I mentioned that my luck in chowhounding has a lot to do with the eagle eye of the Condiment Queen. There are times, however, when I do OK as well. As we have discussed on these boards before, a good signifier to me has always been home-made-y looking signs advertising regional/obscure specialities. La Ley at the intersection of Grand and Austin has several big hand painted signs telling the passerby of their barbacoa de borrego estillo Durango (steamed lamb as done in Durango, in the north of Mexico). I've been wanting to go here for a while.

And as so often the case. What took me so long. The first thing I saw upon entering was a very robust cone of al pastor pork. I knew what to have with my barbacoa. When the CQ opened her menu, she knew what she would have (after seeing a tiny piece of paper advertising carne en su jugo). My ony decision, get the al pastor en gordita or not. With a bit of half-assed Spainish, I learned that the gorditas were hecho a mano, handmade, and I was set on lunch.

Truly great al pastor. Ideal al pastor in the sense that the meat was throughly crisped up from the spit cookery, not hung to dry and fried on the griddle. The gordita was huge, like a masa sammy. The two tacos de barbacoa were just as good, the kinda fatty, near gelatonous taste that leaves your lips greasy (but in a good way). All the stuff was enhanced by a trio of salsas, each hotter than the next. I was especially keen on one made mostly of charred jalepenos, but a thinner green sauce, and a red sauce with a strong smokey element were about as good.

The carne en su jugo was not quite as complex as some I've had, but what it lacked nuance, it made up for with muscle. A very strong bowl of meat, bacon and beans. Ms. VI gave it the esteemed comment, "it does not taste like restaurant food." Unlike most carne en su jugo I have had, the meat was soft and rich instead of grilled.

They had no take out menus, so I do not currently have the address or telephone number. I cannot vouch for anything else on the menu, but I was pretty blown away on this, my first visit.

VI

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Think Yiddish, Dress British - Advice of Evil Ronnie to me.

The Local Beet's very big list of 2013 Farmer's Markets

Rob--sounds good. Here is the address

Taqueria La Ley
6000 W Grand Ave
(773) 385-9878

Thanks for the rec Rob, I can't wait to try it!

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there's food, and then there's food

La Ley is definitely the place. My new favorite taqueria; too bad it’s so far away for me to get to regularly during the week.

The Al Pastor was juicy, yet crispy. Full flavored, yet not greasy. They made their al pastor on the spit that morning (Sunday), carved it all off in small, crisped, carmelized shavings, kept it covered on a plate. When I came in around 11:30 they crisped the pieces on the griddle and served it with fresh cilantro and onions which really tasted great.

The Borrego (lamb) was also very good. The lamb was also crisped on the grill before serving in tacos with onions and cilantro. Slightly gamey, which I like, which was balanced nicely by the lime, and brought out by the salt.


The star of the morning turned out to be the chilaquiles in green sauce, served with a fried egg and a really juicy piece of steak, along with beans, rice, cheese, crema, lettuce, and tomato. Really a lot of food and a very nice meal.


Overall, what can I say, they just get it. They know how to prepare meat and it tastes great. Thanks to Rob and the eagle eye of the Condiment Queen for spotting this one!

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there's food, and then there's food

anyone tried the other la ley's - or is goodness restricted to this branch?

Listen up ya'll cause this ain't funny:

The best pastor in Chicago, in my immodest experience, is to be had at Carniceria Leon, Ashland and Blackhawk. Intricate spicing and layering of components, rakishly dark char, a pina on top. Do they griddle it? No, they don't. For there is no griddle. There is a spit for the pastor and a flame grill for the other meats. This place is bare-bones and a little scruffy.

Stop by the spiffier supermercado next door (a Guanajuato) and grab some of the Hatian mangoes I've been gabbing about.

PS, the fantastic mural depicting a maniac, cleaver-waving pig and two terrorized butchers, one already in the caso, is at Guanajuato, not Leon as I previously stated.

Let me know your thoughts. I have no more to add, seriously.

Carniceria Leon
(773) 772-9804
1402 N Ashland Ave
Chicago, IL 60622

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Ed Fisher
my chicago food photos

RIP LTH.

I've been to Carniceria Leon and I agree that it is excellent. I've had to ask for lime on the side there. I'm looking forward to trying La Ley too. I'm always on the prowl for good al pastor. One of my neighborhood favorites is Taqueria Santa Rita, which is located in an architecturally miserable strip mall on Lawrence just east of California. They do finish off the pastor on the griddle, but most of its life is on the spit and it is very flavorful:



Taqueria Santa Rita
2752 W Lawrence
773-784-1522

Not much to add on La Ley except to second all that has been written. I had a trio of Tacos - barbacoa, pastor, and the as yet unmentioned chorizo. With a just sufficient Horchata Mediano, a side of frijoles, and the trio of terrifc salsas, it made for a very pleasant and tasty break from the home office. Also, nice service and a chance to use as much of my Spanish as I wanted.

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OPMark