Tim wrote:
Hi,
Cook's Illustrated did some recipe development on gnocchi and solved some problems. You know the story, "Mom's was perfect and mine is like glue, and I use the same recipe."
The problems are caused by wet potatoes, imprecise ratios of potato to flour and over-mixing. (Sound's just like problems with pastry.)
The answers are:
Par cook russets in a microwave and finish in an oven. Peel, rice and spread out to dry.
Use a 4 to 1 ratio of potato to flour, by weight.
Add and egg and mix just enough to bring the mix together.
Tim
Some of this is decent advice, but the part about "imprecise ratios" being a problem is wrong. Trying to stick to precise ratios actually contributes to bad gnocchi. Every potato is unique: no two are precisely alike in terms of moisture and starch content. Par cooking and other techniques can help even things out, but the bottom line is still that you can't precisely measure how much flour you're going to need to develop enough gluten to hold the potatoes together. What I do is start with riced potatoes and a bowl of flour, then slowly add the flour from the bowl, a little at a time, judging by feel when enough flour has been added. It takes practice, but once you get a feel for it you throw out recipes and ratios and go with what your hands tell you.
_________________
...defended from strong temptations to social ambition by a still stronger taste for tripe and onions." Screwtape in
The Screwtape Letters by CS Lewis
Fuckerberg on Food