We went to Yilin about a half-hour before it closed last night. It’s very unfair to judge a restaurant at the end of the week when it’s getting ready to close for a holiday, so I’m going to cut the place some slack and talk about only the good stuff we had there. Yilin does have a huge menu of Japanese and Chinese dishes, so I think it’s likely we’ll return at a more normal time to give them a fair shake.

The seaweed salad, usually doled out in what seems quarter-cup servings, was here a huge mound of very tender mixed sea vegetables, lightly dressed with sesame seed and sweet vinegar. Now, I usually complain about the gargantuan size of many restaurant portions, and I greatly admire Japanese restraint in plating, but I was very glad to see this hungry-man mound of green goodness. Very crunchy and fresh, with slight sweet-sour notes, this salad was a good deal at $5.95.

The sushi chef comped us an octopus salad that might have been the best thing we ate that night. Thin slices of the sea creature, with beautiful, slightly chewy texture. Rarely do I enjoy a dish based primarily on its texture, but this one, I did. Flavor was very good; texture, very memorable.

This is the season for pea shoots, and the stir-fried shoots at Yilin were very delicate, with a slight hint of pea-ness, tender and tasty. I’m encouraged by the large vegetable section on the menu, including “Tony gourmet eggplant” (subtle homage to Tony Hu, the mayor of Chinatown chow?).
There are certain locations that for years can seem cursed. Papaspiros, now apparently thriving, moved into a location on Lake Street that had seem a number of restaurants (Tsukiji, Pacific Rim, Green Onion, etc.) come and go before one finally “hit.” Similarly, the corner of Madison and Desplaines has had a number of tenants, most recently Coral, that tried this concept and that and finally gave up and left. I think Yilin may have staying power, and although we now have over 20 Asian restaurants in the immediate area, there’s always room for another good one.