Just back from the friends and family dinner debut of Jonathan Zaragoza's first menu as an executive chef and I thought it was terrific. Full disclosure--all food was half price. So tried to judge the food both on taste and whether it was worth the higher price tag (drinks in the $9-12 range, apps $5-10, entrees $20-22) and I came away thinking that it certainly was.
There were only 2 of us and I was still pretty full from yesterday's picnic gorge fest so we didn't try a ton of things but enough to get a feel for the place and everything was consistently delicious. Started simply with Guacamole (white onion, cilantro, serrano chile, housemade totopos, $8 and Salsa de molcajete (roasted tomatillos, arbol chile, roasted garlic, housemade totopos, $5)--particularly loved the guac--fresh, bright, right amount of chunk and crunch. The salsa was pretty tame but tasty--wouldn't have minded a bit more heat. Next up was the Czar salad (baby gem lettuce, avocado caesar dressing, pickled jicama, cotija fritters, $10)--really nicely done--perfectly dressed, fritters a great sub for croutons--took something that is usually boring and made it fun. Finally, for entrees, we had the grilled flat iron steak with ancho potatoes, rajas con crema and lime and the grilled squab with mole Oaxaqueño, wild rice, and the best Scotch Egg I've ever had--perfectly runny, wrapped in chorizo and panko bread crumbs and half of it destined to be my breakfast tomorrow. Execution was perfect--everything was timed right and flowed smoothly. Service was friendly, laid back yet efficient. I only tried one cocktail, the Autumn--Hacienda de Chihuahua Anejo, tart cherry, allspice, citrus, Chicago Old Town Spiced Sugar, $10--it was a bit sweet for my taste but definitely tasted like fall.
It's an interesting location--nothing really right around there, although I did run into Abraham and Adrienne, formerly of Xmarx, who are opening a place on the same block--but there's plenty of parking and a pretty outdoor side patio. I look forward to seeing how Jonathan progresses with the menu--seems like he's off to a great start. And no goat to be found
Masa Azul
2901 W. Diversey Ave
Chicago, IL
(773) 687-0300
http://www.masaazul.com