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Watch out, Ixcapuzalco ... there's a feisty new competitor in the haute Mexican dining scene in Logan Square. Fonda del Mar, a 32-table storefront, opened about three weeks ago on Fullerton between Ridgeway and Hamlin, and based on tonight's carryout (and the time I spent inside watching the staff at work), I think we have a winner here. Everything I ate was very good, some of it great, and I'm pleased to have this new addition in the 'hood.

Metromix reports Fonda del Mar is a partnership of "Hernandez and Luis Montero, who hail from Mia Francesca and Raul Arreola, who spent a dozen years under Rick Bayless at Frontera Grill/Topolobampo." This shows in the professionalism of the staff, as well as the quality of the food.

As the name seems to imply (and also based on the number of painted wooden fish decorating the place), seafood is the specialty at Fonda del Mar -- although they do a very good with the red meats, too. And the prices are right: I had a 5-course Chef's tasting at $30 that was enough to feed an army; a very generous carne asada platter was $14, and both came with a healthy supply of chips and hand-made tortillas (I watched them make my batch). In a lot of ways, Fonda del Mar reminds me of Dorado, but without the French influence and heavier use of peppers and Mexican spice (although the flan is unfortunately not as good as the uber-flan served at Dorado).

So, here's the pictures:

Ceviche

This was very fresh fish, brightly flavored and with a relatively high spice level. Better than Islas Marias, not quite the best I've had, but very good.

Pepper and Corn Soup

This was one of the best things I've put in my mouth in months. Really, this is a "Top 10 of 2006" candidate. Rich, spicy, corny and delicious. Hope they have this when you come.

Tilapia

The picture doesn't do this justice, but it's a very firm and fresh tilapia filet, spicy exterior and moist interior. The rice was perfect and the onions were a flavorful counterpoint to the fish.

Lambchops in Mole Negro

Tender lambchops cooked precisely as ordered (medium rare), served with a mole negro that's the equal of any Bahena mole I've tried. The mashed potatoes are also much better than what you get at Ixc or Chilpancingo. A real winner.

Flan

I include this picture for sake of completeness. As noted above, the flan was very good, but it was also fairly typical. However, they advertise a different flavor of flan nightly, so it might warrant another go to try the other varieties.

Fonda del Mar
3749 W. Fullerton Ave.
773-489-3748

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JiLS

Cool, great find. 32 tables seems a lot, was it very busy (or were you too early to really tell)?

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It was too early to really tell; I walked in at 5:25 p.m., and there was one table of four eating. I'll bet things are really warming up right about now. As far as the "find," I think I was just lucky on this one (it's 2 blocks from my condo). And Metromix (and AOL, and NPR) found it first, anyway. I'm happy to give credit where it is due.

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JiLS

I know, the name alone had penetrated my outer radar defenses already, but I didn't know anything about it. You came, you ordered takeout, you conquered. It's Jim's find! It's Jim's flan!

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Jim,

This statement alone is enough to send Fonda del Mar to the top of my Must-Try list. Great post and pics.

Is Fonda del Mar BYOB, similar to Dorado?

Enjoy,
Gary

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Sauce on the side, always, implied, axiomatic..........never a doubt, BBQ sauce without.

Low & Slow

JiLS,

I'm particularly intrigued by the lamb chops in mole negro. I was thinking the other night that one usually finds moles (in Chicago at least) on chicken or pork, the lighter white meats. In Susana Trilling's Seasons of My Heart (A Culinary Journey through Oaxaca, Mexico), the usual mole media is chicken, though she sometimes uses turkey and even hominy, but of the 11 moles recipes she presents, only one includes beef as part of a larger stew that also includes pork. No lamb or goat or other stronger meats are mole-ized. I have found a few recipes for lamb mole, but usually the preference seems to be for red or coloradito, not the negro as at Fonda del Mar (e.g., http://www.foodnetwork.com/food/recipes ... 30,00.html).

Which is a round-about way of asking: how do you think the mole negro meshed with the lamb chop?

Hammond

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“We all have to stand before the kitchen gods.” Chef Jacob Sahaya Kumar Aruni

Bayless seems to be a fan of lamb in mole negro. I've had an excellent version at Topo that meshed perfectly, and I've seen him prepare it on his show.

I look forward to trying the FdM version. Thanks JiLS.

Best,
Michael

It is BYOB, and they have a llittle bar at the back and glassware for margaritas stacked near the kitchen, so it looks like they are ready for action (although no BYO service was going on at the time I was there).

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JiLS

What was the question? Seriously, it meshed very well, because (1) the lamb was that new breed of "not so lamby" tasting lamb and (2) the entire mix of meat, garlic potatoes and mole was seamless and delicious. So it was the whole dish that worked; not sure the lamb and mole without the potatoes would've been quite so tasty.

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JiLS

Jim,

That may be the case, but mention in Metromix was not enough to get me to go, whereas a positive recommendation from JimInLoganSquare, I'm all over that. At 7pm on a Saturday FdM was bustling, every table full, people waiting in the foyer, even a few outside. Even so they seated our party of 6 after only about a 15-minute wait.

Menu winners were two Jim mentioned, Lamb chops in Mole Negro and the Ceviche appetizer. Others were a terrific appetizer of Tacos Escuinapa, which were rolled/fired tortillas filled with shrimp and served with a small bowl of seafood soup. Actually, the soup was one of the best parts of the meal, rich broth filled with fish and rings of squid. Coctel de Camarone was loaded with shrimp, though the consensus was a little too heavy of a hand with the catsup.

Overall the food was good, though slightly erratic, with an item left of a dish here and there, and service that was attentive and professional for about 75% of the time, the other 25% ~shrug~, though I see lots of promise in FdM. Seafood was fresh, desserts, especially the Tres Leches cake, were quite good and everyone seemed to be friendly and trying very hard. I'd say FdM will find their groove in short order, though next time I'm going on a weeknight.

Thanks Jim.

Enjoy,
Gary

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Sauce on the side, always, implied, axiomatic..........never a doubt, BBQ sauce without.

Low & Slow

Excellent, sounds like I get to hang onto my $3.95!

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JiLS

I'm not quite as charitable with my review.

Opening jitters include very fumbled service, but things like running out of handmade-to-order tortillas is a management problem. Plan B last night appeared to be: give them nothing (actually it was a basket of two tortillas for a table of six). Sorry folks, but having a few packages of store bought tortillas on hand for an emergency sounds like a much better idea.

The catch of the day? Tilapia? Ooooh, I know what you are thinking...its been so long since I've had a good piece of tilapia. The only time Tilapia is scarce enough to be near the catch of the day menu is when the hydraulic crane lifting the strainer basket from the adult tank to the processing chute gets jammed.

I think you really have to wonder about this restaurant's concept process when the best dish on a seafood restaurant's menu is lamb. Everyone else at the table had fish or seafood...nothing stood out.

On the other hand...I am one of the dissenters that really enjoyed the shrimp cocktail. The style was very Mexi-merican, heavier on the catsup and lighter on the lime juice. I don't care for an over-limed cocktail, where a huge hit of sour is all you can taste. I've been to a few hole in the wall places where lime is served on the side.

I will confess that our table did not order any of the more elaborate fish dishes...Veracruz or a stuffed trout, though one did order mahi mahi. The veracruz was made with, what else, tilapia...the stuffed trout had too much going on, listing many items in the description, and did not appeal to me.

I agree with JiLS these guys have their chops. All of the shrimp were cooked well, without being mushy, the lamb was cooked as described and even the fried fish was well executed, yet nothing stood out.

Gary mentioned most of the positive aspects...but, I think these folks really need to think about the concept of the place. They need to expand beyond tilapia. They are just a little too far west on Fullerton to be serving Lincoln Park run of the mill fare.

Its a nice addition if you are in the neighborhood, but I am not so enthusiastic about it to think that others are shaking in their boots.

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Unchain your lunch money!

I'm somewhere between GWiv and Pdaane in how I felt, though I accept that if business suddenly bumped up in the last day or two (because of Metromix or whatever), they were caught unawares by some things and can't entirely be faulted for that, or at least will likely fix it shortly. What I would agree with is that the supposed seafood focus of the place is not particularly borne out by imaginative or interesting seafood dishes-- I would say "highly competent" is about the term to use. My mahi mahi was very nicely seared and then served with a slightly generic, to my mind a little too hot for the fish salsa; G Wiv's tilapia was a battered and fried fish filet with no sauce at all, which means, it was just a nicely fried piece of fish of no particular nationality. Nothing to be dissatisfied with except that no new ground was broken with any of them.

I did not try the lamb chops but I tried the mole they were in and between that and appearances (and Eatchicago's satisfaction) they were in another class entirely and seemed worthy of the comparisons to Frontera and the old Ixcapuzalco. The mole was quite multi-dimensional, and the lamb chops looked extremely well prepared.

The good news is that, at least as long it's BYOB, it's all quite reasonably priced; even ordering more appetizers than any other five tables combined we barely broke the standard $27 price for LTHForum outings. I too can imagine coming back here on a weeknight, it's always good to have another nice-atmosphere, cloth-napkin ethnic choice for those occasions when you want to go somewhere with people who don't share your love of dives; so I'm eager to see if this place comes more into focus over the coming months.

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Obviously service was not an issue when I was there Friday night; in fact, my takeout order was practically doted over by the entire staff. You guys obviously saw the other end of the spectrum; it does sound like they got overwhelmed.

Some questions:

Did anyone try the Chef's tasting? I think a little more imagination was shown on the tilapia included in my Chef's tasting, for example, than Gary experienced. It's also a real bargain at $30 for five dishes, plus chips, salsa and a dozen fresh tortillas.

Did anyone get some photos Saturday night? If so, please post. I have to think the food looks better on a real plate than in the foil take-out dishes on my kitchen countertop.

I guess I understand the "bait and switch" argument (pun intended) raised by Peter, as the place does scream "seafood house" both through its decor and its designation and name. But hey, don't pick on the tilapia! Even if it's a pedestrian fish, I happen to like tilapia, and the prep I got on Friday was very good. And I also think we need to keep in mind that living in the Midwest, as we do, anybody serving seafood at the low, low prices offered by Fonda del Mar shouldn't be expected to be serving 4-star fish. That being said, I have to admit that throwing a plain, fried tilapia on a plate with no adornment is pretty lame, no matter how well fried or reasonably priced. Hopefully, as they get their legs under them, they'll have more time and energy to devote to creative presentations of whatever they do have on offer. In any event, there are any number of food outlets that I and other posters on this board go to for something that is NOT their purported core competency -- case in point, Harry's Hot Dogs, my source for grits and Kuma's Corner, a bar serving bar food that also serves the best biscuits I've had north of Terre Haute. So, let's for now just put in our collective instituational knowledge that FdM is "that seafood place with the amazing lamb in mole negro." Or not.

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JiLS

Nope. But I'd like to return and try it. On a weeknight after it has moved off of the "what's new" list at metromix. Definitely. The Latin dance club theme was a little too much for me.



Actually, we all asked for our food to be served in foil take out containers. It was a fitting homage to you for inspiring this meal. (I have no photos, but there were photos taken).

My overall assessment of FdM falls in line with Mike G's. Good place with good potential, but somewhat overwhelmed by a full room. I liked some things I ate, found others to be just so-so. (I was disappointed that the corn and pepper soup was not on the menu). The lamb in mole was the clear winner of the evening for me, and I too was surprised that I didn't really love any seafood dish I tried (except for maybe that soup that came with the tacos).

I hope they're willing to flex their mole muscles and put a few more on the menu.

Also, I'm pleased that the place was so full. I am assuming that metromix had a good portion to do with their quick success. It's nice to know that people are travelling west of Kedzie to get something good to eat.

Best,
Michael

Whooooooa.....

Main course wise there are 4-shrimp dishes; Camarones A La Plancha, Camarones A La Diabla, Camarones Al Mojo De Ajo, Camarones Xanath and 5-fish; Huachinango made with (according to the menu) Red Snapper, not tilapia, Tamal De Trucha Rellena (Trout fish), Pescado Takin Xic (Mahi Mahi), Tilapia Empanizada and Arroz A La Tumbada ("Mexican version of Paella"), this represents 2/3's of the main course menu. Not to mention appetizers and specials.

The fish was well prepared, but as I said there seemed to be an ingredient left off here and there, avocado mayo with Peter's Camarones A La Plancha. My fried tilapia was, admittedly, somewhat boring, just a hunk, generous at that, of well-fried fish. I was expecting some type of sauce or topping, but even without filigree the fish was quite good.

I'm not defending Fonda del Mar's fumbles, some of which I pointed out in my post, simply saying they are a 4-week old restaurant that got absolutely slammed on a Saturday night, the fact that they could keep any type of balance at all, speaks much for a bright future. Though, like I said, next time I'm going on a weeknight.

My one off the wall observation/criticism, what's with the knotty pine tables? They made me feel a little like I was being measured for a cheap coffin.

Enjoy,
Gary

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Low & Slow

Yeah, after a while I felt I should be talking to a severed head in the tortilla basket.

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The menu does say snapper, although maybe they got a bargain on tilapia by the gross on Saturday; Peter, what do you know that we don't???

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JiLS

why are some dishes in styrofoam and/or tin containers and the soups nad other dishes in actual ceramic bowls???

Because I put the soup into my own bowl before photographing it, and others I left in the styrofoam and tin they came in. Sorry there's no conspiracy theory evidence there for you. Note for purposes of full disclosure that I did some amount of photo styling with the ceviche, including propping up a tortilla chip in back and balancing a lime slice in front. Should I start publishing "Serving Suggestion" disclaimers on my posts?

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JiLS

No, Jim, disclosure unnecessary, but you might want to consider a career in photo styling...your photos have improved so...

Can't wait to try the new neighborhood joint. Thanks for the heads up guys (and gals?)!

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Jim,

I took a few pictures but it was one of those times when they, for the most part, just did not turn out. I'll post a few, but they will never make Mike G's 2006 Year in LTHForum Food Photos.

Fonda del Mar Open Kitchen


Pescado Frito w/seafood soup


Borrego En Mole Negro


Tilapia Empanizada


Side dish of Cebollitas


Tres Leches


House made tortillas


Enjoy,
Gary

_________________
Sauce on the side, always, implied, axiomatic..........never a doubt, BBQ sauce without.

Low & Slow

Yea, but here's the thing. According to the press releases flooding the food media (cf Dish), FdM finally brings Mexican seafood to Chicago. Obviously, to this Islas Maria loving board, that seems an odd ascertation. There are LOTS of Mexican seafood places in Chicago, and even places like La Quebrada include a good deal of seafood on their menu. If someone wants this level of seafood, what does FdM offer?

What the market needs (I think) are Mexican (and Thai) places that offer seafood on the quality of all the sushi places. Sure, it will be more expensive, but people pay for sushi, why would they not pay for the same level of fish as a ceviche?

In other words, based on the publicity, I expected something a bit different from FdM (mole be damned). Thanks, however, for the early reviews.

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Just what the waiter told me. Not sure if it was miscommunication or they ran out. The loud music was turned even louder after we were seated. I did see a nice whole fish, quite likely snapper, being pan fried and then put in the oven as we walked in. Loud and busy is an atmosphere, when you can't communicate with the waiter its a problem...hopefully, this will be worked out.

By the way, no bait and switch...plenty of seafood, my comment pertained to the five of the six entrees we ordered, the best dish being meat rather than seafood...same as the OP.

Pine table tops are very Mexican, although they are usally treated with a heavy coat of sealer. North American hardwoods would be very expensive compared to the pine available in the mountains. I had a paper napkin, no table cloth...though with hostess, etc. they are after the cloth napkin crowd. I noticed no busboys, that really added to the service problems.

I didn't knock tilapia. But, it is a farm raised fish available in unlimited quantities. I just think some imagination can be put into the fish of the day. Take a look in Fish Guy, Dirk's, Isaacson and Stein, there are plenty of varieties that don't get a lot of play on Chicago menus. Our special ice cream of the day is plain vanilla...maybe, but probably not.

I divorced myself from all of the service problems. I just think they need a plan B for the tortillas, no matter the size of the crowd.

Again, fine but not yet a destination.

Rob, I thought the ceviche quite good.

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Unchain your lunch money!

We ate there last night, no reservations, and with a two-year-old. The place was absolutely slammed, including a party of 20+. We each had the tasting menu (baby had rice and beans). It was REALLY REALLY good. I have read some complaints about the interestingness of the fish preparations, but our mahi mahi in poblano cream sauce was awesome. The fish was perfect and the sauce was so good that I just about licked my plate. Roasted pork in mole with sweet potaotes was fab, too. The shrimp cocktail was standard fare except that the shrimp tasted unusally fresh. The pepper and corn soup is unusual, zippy, and intensely vegetal. The staff were attentive, pleasant, and knowledgeable. Especially for a restuarant that opened so recently and to so much hype, I feel they are off to a laudable start.

Last week, I was sitting around waiting for my order at La Oaxaquena, and I started shooting the breeze with Rodrigo Cisneros, the owner, and I asked him if lamb and mole was a dish one might find in Mexico. "Oh no,"he said, "We don't like lamb. We have sheep everywhere, but we don't like lamb."

He had heard of the lamb and mole combo, of course, but seemed to think it strange. Traditionally, mole is served with wild turkey; when the wild turkeys disappeared, chicken or other mild poultry was substituted. Rodrigo felt that you wanted a somewhat bland meat to showcase the complexity of the mole.

All that said, I'm looking forward to having some of Fonda del Mar's lamb mole tonight.

Hammond

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“We all have to stand before the kitchen gods.” Chef Jacob Sahaya Kumar Aruni

David -- As I think I noted above, the lamb they use is the extremely mild variety that has become so prevalent lately - the kind that hardly tastes like lamb at all (e.g., the tasty, but very mild, lambchops sold at Costco). So maybe that's why it works taste-wise. And the texture of the meat is wonderful, at least if you order it medium rare, as I did - melt in your mouth tender.

That being said, they are still BYOB, so you could try the mole with some Wild Turkey, too.

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JiLS

We went to Fonda last night -- great to have it in the neighborhood, but what chaos! Apparently the write-up in Chicago Magazine and Metromix had quite an impact (learned from some folks we spoke to). Several parties of 14+ people, standing crowds of anxious diners through rush hour (7-9 pm) and some major fumbles in service (food cold, no order taken for a good 20+ minutes) -- completely forgivable. The entrees were delicious, and we will definitely be back to try it on a less hectic evening.

Lesson: Saturday night after a glowing review (or JiLS' write up) is not such a good idea.

A note to those making reservations on Saturday night: you may have reservations, but you will still wait until a table is free, which could be up to 45 minutes, as we experienced last night. They are still figuring out how to run service. Their apologies (and the comped flan, overbaked but sincere) most definitely made up for missteps.

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If you want to put that 45 minute wait to good use, you could stroll a few blocks east to the liquor store at the southeast corner of Fullerton and Central Park to procure some libations. It doesn't look like much (and I'm not trying to oversell it), but they are convenient and they sell probably 75 different tequilas and an acceptable number of drinkable wines (South American and Australian, predominately) as well as a pretty impressive range of beers (European - including Czech and even Russian - Mexican, Central and South American, as well as the usual suspects from North America).

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JiLS

yeah, we did that...but they kept telling us "ten more minutes" so only one of us went -- I waited for that ten minutes to roll around, and it did, 45 minutes later. Had I known....

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