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VI, how was the hanger steak?


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"In the land of the pigs the butcher is king." Jim Steinman

Have I not made my feelings about Lulu's clear (I did not mean to be ignoring your question, I just felt like I was piling on)? Still, I did not think it was a mistake to order the hanger steak.

There's things about Lulu's I like. I like any chef I see while shopping at Green City. Still, I've just not loved a lot of what's come out of the kitchen.

Well, I guess I did pile on

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The Local Beet's very big list of 2013 Farmer's Markets

Today's Sun-Times Weekend paper had a full-page spread about Lulu's.... and they had a picture of the yia-yia dish, which apparently has cinnamon in it (why didn't anyone here mention this?). The food writer did not seem to know that feta is not the correct kind of cheese ...hmm....

The writer did say that the hanger steak was excellent. How are the fries?

I sort of did, but I guess you had to read between the lines and/or know that cinnamon is a common spice used in Greek cooking.

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Steve Z.
Photographer/Pseudojournalist

"The only time to eat diet food is while you’re waiting for the steak to cook." - Julia Child

I can handle trash talk about one of my favorite restaurants, but I am not big enough to handle trash talk + calling it the wrong name! It's Lula. Lula Cafe. Sheesh.

Kristen

Hi, Ella!

I didn't know Lulu's had hanger steak on the menu.

The only Lulu's I know of in the area:

Lulu's
804 Davis St., Evanston

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Chicago Craft Beer Week!

#706,

There's another one... I thought maybe the discussion had gotten off track and they were discussing the hot dog place, LuLu's, on Ogden and Taylor by Leavitt... which happens to be Greek owned.

Antonius

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Alle Nerven exzitiert von dem gewürzten Wein -- Anwandlung von Todesahndungen -- Doppeltgänger --
- aus dem Tagebuch E.T.A. Hoffmanns, 6. Januar 1804.
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Na sir is na seachain an cath.

Lulu's Dim Sum and Then Sum
804 Davis Evanston, IL 60201
ph 847 869-4343
www.lulusdimsum.com

Lula Cafe
2537 N. Kedzie Blvd
Chicago, IL
ph 773-489-9554
www.lulacafe.com

Just returned from a stunningly good meal at Lula Cafe. The highlights included (1) an amuse of candied fennel creme soup with chives, perfectly seasoned and perfectly warm (and warming); (2) a cheese plate of bittersweet dairy 'feliciana' (a soft and fat-rich cheese like a velvet cheese-hammer), 'morning fresh blue' (dense, dry and hard, unlike any blue I've had before, an analytical cheese, if you can indulge me that appellation), on a plate dressed with succulent sweet figs, impossibly thin slices of apple, streaks of balsamic glaze, sugared walnuts and two dainty slices of honey-dripping panforte; and (3) a special entree of four large and exquisite broiled scallops (scallops are something Lula consistently does very well, to the point where I consider it a signature ingredient), served in a cured-ham rich chowder broth and diced potatoes. That broth could have been thicker and richer by half, but this is a minor notation, not a complaint, about one of the finer entrees I have enjoyed over the past couple of months. Mrs. JiLS enjoyed her standard Lula choices (house salad and pasta yia-yia -- she's one of those who love this love-it-or-hate-it dish). A very satisfying meal, both from the perspective of pure enjoyment and aesthetic or intellectual appreciation of "what they were getting at." Topped off with a bottle of Alsace white at a very reasonable price.

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JiLS

does anyone know if lula "dressed up" for halloween like they've done in years past?

Hello, lurker here. Forgive me for my ignorance, but what kind of cheese is analytical? Is this a common way to describe a type of cheese? That phrase stuck with me for a few days so I had to ask.

Jim can confirm if I'm right, but I took his phrase to mean "a cheese so multilayered in the complexities of its flavors, it compels one's analytical attention to the task of 'teasing out' these various strands." Or something like that.

What you said. Actually, part of my point was that my brain is softer than this cheese.

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JiLS

The core contributors to this site seem to have tunnel vision. If you like a place you will remain very loyal almost to a fault. Lula Cafe is okay. No I did not expect culinary nirvana but my expectations where high. It is not cheap but not expensive but I did not think it to be a good value.

It is just another good neighborhood place that is over hyped. Bruno gave it 2.5 stars, it does not deserve more than 1. These small joints that are run by non traditional chefs/restaurateurs are great diamonds in the rough but by no means are they destinations. Lula Cafe will keep on being itself but all the attention it receives will end up hurting it in the long run. 847, 630, and 312s have high, almost unreal, expectations of a 2.5 star restaurant and Lula won't even come close to them.

I hope they stay their course and have continued success but everyone must accept them for who and what they are and not what they should or shouldn't be.

Bobby,

Differing opinions are what make LTHForum interesting. I understand you did not find Lula a good value, but would be interested in what led you to that conclusion. Any specific dishes that pleased, displeased?

Enjoy,
Gary

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Tunnel vision could also apply to making grand pronouncements about what a place is or isn't all about based on one visit. It's clear from this thread that there is a justified difference of opinion about Lula even between the "core contributors to this site." That's not only to be expected, but a good thing. You are entitled to your opinion, but remember that is just one among many.

Kristen

My last visit was a while ago. There was nothing horrible about it. I appreciate nice neighborhood joints but Lula suffers from too much hype. It is not a destination by any means. If a meal is unmemorable that says it all. These places need to be kept in context. Is it on the same level with Blackbird or North Pond? Both of them use organics exclusively. No it is not and should not be spoken of with such great reverence. It is what it is and expectations should be kept in check.

Without ever moving, I have been a 312, 708 and now an 847. I surmise 708 and 773 is more down to earth with reasonable expectations. How do you feel about 815?

I never felt myself defined by area code before, though this old dog can learn new tricks.

Regards,

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Cathy2

"You'll be remembered long after you're dead if you make good gravy, mashed potatoes and biscuits." -- Nathalie Dupree
Facebook, Twitter, Greater Midwest Foodways, Road Food 2012: Podcast

I don't think anyone here thinks Lula is on the same level as North Pond or Blackbird, even its fans (and note that this thread is actually mostly negative towards Lula).

The comparison to Blackbird and North Pond comes because all of them use a lot of local, seasonal ingredients prepared in a "new american" style, with a pretty big focus on sustainability.

Lula is a great NEIGHBORHOOD restaurant. If you're in or around Logan Square, it's an excellent choice, especially for Monday dinners.

Also, since when did we start identifying people by area code? I would be a 312 (I live in Pilsen), but why does that make me expect something different from a 2.5 star restaurant than someone who lives in Lincoln Park (and therefore is a 773)?

What a ridiculous way to classify people. It reminds me of LA or New York, and not in a good way.

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Ed Fisher
my chicago food photos

RIP LTH.

I am sorry for not being clear when referring to area codes and expectations. I meant it in reference to distanced traveled. The farther you go for a meal the greater the expectation.

bobby z, it sounds like your real complaint must be less with the posters at LTH and more with Pat Bruno's 2.5-star review, which may have encouraged folks to travel great distances with unrealistic expectations of what level of dining they will find on getting to Lula. Hopefully, most people will read Bruno's entire description of Lula (which I have not read) before venturing in on such a false premise, but who knows. As to folks here having tunnel vision about Lula, I can't disagree more. There has been much -- and spirited -- debate and difference of opinion of whether Lula is any good at all, let alone what ranking of excellence it ought to be assigned or how it compares to Blackbird. As the one who nominated Lula Cafe for the GNR (and had his sanity questioned by one of the "core contributors" to LTH for doing so), and having eaten at Lula probably 50 times over the past four years (very often just because of its close proximity to my home), I have no illusions about Lula as a "destination" class restaurant, and have even taken them to task here and elsewhere on multiple occasions for serious lapses in service. That said, the "N" in "GNR" stands for "Neighborhood," not "destination" restaurant. To the extent anyone here has portrayed Lula as a destination spot that warrants a long drive in for a "630" or an "847," it was not I (and as gleam points out, I don't think the general dialogue on this site about Lula, some of which has been highly critical, would support that conclusion). By no means has the discussion of Lula on this site been blinkered, nor has the place been lionized. I think the issue here, bobby z, is that we (meaning the consensus at LTH and you) actually agree that Lula is a very good neighborhood restaurant with certain limitations, which the owners have no inclination or need to change in order to earn status as a "destination" they did not ask for to begin with. (Hell, they even call themselves a "cafe," not a restaurant.)

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JiLS

Shouldn't a "Neighborhood" place charge "Neighborhood" prices..?

Ahh, well, I guess all the great Neighborhoods are inevitably becoming gentrified along with their food...
As dangerous as she was at times, I miss the old Logan Square... Especially Cafe Abril...
Boy, they had some good sangria...

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Greasy Spoon

I'd say if you stick to regular menu items like the pan roasted chicken ($13, including sides), you're not going to break the bank at Lula. Even the specials are reasonably priced; they certainly haven't broken the $30 entree barrier, which was shattered in the "destination" places long ago.

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JiLS

I am with JiLS on the price issue. One of the things I like about Lula Cafe is that you can eat there at different price points. Have a sandwich for under $10 with sides or choose from the reasonably price specials. I have even had a couple of under $30 bottles of wine that were very good. I have not lived anywhere near Lula for about 6-7 years, but still stop in on a regular basis.

Jim,

A very nice description of a meal that sounds quite good and something I've come to expect from Lula's evening specials. Your post, along with the fact that it has been a while since I'd last had dinner there, prompted us to head to Lula on Monday to check out the "farm dinner". It has been close to a year since I've enjoyed this fixed-price treat and I'm glad I went back.

For those of you who are not familiar with it, the "farm dinner" is a $24, three-course dinner featuring ingredients that they were able to source from local farms either that day or extremely recently. The menu is different every week, often surprising, and, in my opinion, always delicious.

The first course was a generous hunk of fresh braised pork belly (labeled "fresh bacon") served with mustard butter and roasted shallots and brussels sprouts. The pork was flavorful and tender. With the mustard butter, it was among the best things I've eaten all year.

The second course was a roasted duck breast (perfectly medium-rare inside with crispy skin outside) with a crépinette of duck leg meat. These were served atop creamed spinach and roasted, diced parsnips. The duck was delicious, the portion was huge, and everthing worked perfectly. The most surprising element were the tiny cubes of parsnip which added bursts of sweetness and smokiness simultaneously. The least surprising element was the fact that I'm still convinced that few restaurants can handle fowl better than Lula.

The final course was a refreshing lemon-lavender panna cotta with lemon sorbet. I don't think any local farms are selling lemons right now, so I'd assume the local element was dairy and lavender. A nice, clean finish to a hearty, rich meal.

petit pois did not go for the farm dinner, instead opting for a rich rutabaga soup with truffle butter and celery root and a grilled pork loin with figs and cabbage. I loved the soup but only tasted a spoonful as my attention was focused on the pork belly in front of me.

I've had many dinners a Lula and I keep coming back, not because of tunnel-vision, but because they consistently serve me fresh, interesting, and delicious meals at a pretty reasonable price. If I do suffer from tunnel-vision, the easiest way to break that would be to serve me sub-par food, which Lula has never done.

As far as value, the Monday-night farm dinner ranks with fixed price meals like Le Buchon's Tues. night menu as one of the best values in town. Other nights of the week, there are a handful of entrees under $10, and usually a couple evening specials under $20.

I'll gladly accept Lula for who and what it is: A restaurant that consistently makes me happy with their terrific food.

Best,
Michael

Ooohh, excuse me jim. Sounds like even though you live in a 773 area code you've got yourself a 312 wallet.
To a Greasy Spoon 13 bucks for so-so grub ain't cheap...

Joking aside, their food is decent, just decent in my opinion. To me it seems their cooks are a bit inexperienced and their managers are not very sharp (sharp meaning attentive), and the reason I say that is because the times I've gone and had the same dish, the dish was rarely consistent. And to me consistency is just behind taste and quality. Especially if you're gonna charge higher than competitors that are around you... Again, IMHO, if they knocked about $4 bucks off each dish they'd be a bit more in their league...

~GS

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Greasy Spoon

GS - Who are these competitors and where are they? Who is charging $9.00 for a roasted chicken with potatoes and spinach, served on china, with linen napkins and flowers and a candle on the table? I'd like to know what I've been missing and where it has been hiding! Seriously, let's compare apples to apples, here. Lula, for all its venial sins (which are well documented on this site), remains a full-service restaurant (albeit a "neighborhood" restaurant and not a "destination" restaurant), with a full bar (and bartender), wine cellar, six or seven specials every night (plus the Monday Farm Dinner noted above by eatchicago), full waitstaff, etc. And while I agree with you on Lula's consistency issues (in my experience mainly on service, not the food), you can't blame a place for charging an appropriate amount to cover its overhead. If you are comparing Lula to the Central American rotisserie chicken places in the neighborhood (and I assume you are, because you were focusing on the cost/value of Lula's roasted chicken), I guess you could get a lot more volume of decent quality food there for the same money (or even less), but you would also get it served indifferently on a Styrofoam plate with a plastic fork, with a Coke served in the can and a paper napkin. I'm no snob; I'm very happy eating with a plastic fork or my bare hands, if that's what I paid for, and I have multiple witnesses whom I could call. But again, apples to apples; I'll be the first to agree it's unfair to blame a fast food joint for giving less, when it charges less; and equally unfair to blame a full-service restaurant (or even a "cafe") for charging full service prices, when that is what it delivers. This of course assumes you like the food; but let's assume I, eatchicago, G Wiv and others who have said they do, actually do. Anyway, I'd scarcely call a $13 complete dinner (about $17.00 with tax and tip) in a full-service restaurant a "312" price point -- i.e., a "rip-off." Just today I paid $12 ($15.50 with tax and tip) for a lunch consisting of a so-so hamburger and fries with iced tea in my "312" office building's lobby - THAT is what I would call "312" pricing/value .

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JiLS

Alright jim.... alright... I can tell you're a bit hot under the collar and that wasn't my intention. So I apologize for that.


As a matter of fact, I am. Let's do compare apples to apples. Take away the china, the linen, the flowers and candle and serve Lula's food on a Styrofoam plate with a plastic fork and a can of Coke. Which do you think would taste better? In my opinion Lula's would not even compare to "those" rotisserie joints. I can't eloquently describe how I came to this conclusion; (I'm a simple man jim) I just know what tastes good to me.



I wouldn't go so far as to call them a rip-off. It's just more the type of food that you come to tolerate for the price (and, okay, the ambience) in certain neighborhoods. I just get nostalgic for the "old" Logan Square and that's my problem, no one else's.

What it comes down to jim is that you and I are very different people with very different tastes... and that's a good thing. This forum would be pretty dull if we were all the same, don't you think?

~GS

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Greasy Spoon

Geez, Jim, can't you let him have his opinion? We know you like Lula; that's fine; I know and understand your points about Lula -- they're good ones. But this type of response is exactly why some people accuse LTH of having restaurants that are "board favorites" that are insulated from dissenting opinions.

Allow me to point out, as a moderator, that anyone producing a dissenting opinion (of "board favorite" or not) should have a reasonable expectation that they will be replied to by people who hold the opposite opinion.

This is the nature of our discussion. As long as the back-and-forth of discussing the merits (or lack thereof) of a particular restaurant does not devolve into personal attack, then this type of discussion is exactly why LTHForum is here. We are not a bathroom wall where people can write their thoughts and walk away. We are a discussion group, and all points, positive or negative should carry an expectation of response.

Best,
Michael