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The End of Sushi: Blu Coral et al

In the past year, I’ve eaten at a number of sushi places that seem to be part of a movement away from the fundamental simplicity of this time-honored culinary tradition.

I’m talking about faddish joints like Toyko 21, Triad, Kohan and just tonight, Blu Coral in Wicker Park, all seeming to represent an elaboration upon the simple fresh fish on rice paradigm that, frankly, I long for and am missing in what seems to be a docile surrender to fashion. Kohan even sells what they call “fashion sushi,” which is basically sushi that (in the words of our hostess) “just looks really pretty,” though there is nothing wrong with that, I guess, but I have the uncomfortable feeling that appearance is taking precedence over taste. And that uncomfortable feeling is taking place in my mouth.

Tokyo 21, in perhaps the most profoundly disturbing and decadent transformation of this elemental dish into trendoid fetish goes so far as to sprinkle their sushi with gold flake. The metal added nothing to the flavor, and I know such auric embellishment has been found in fancy-pants foods throughout the ages…but Japanese cuisine seems to celebrate the simple and this trend toward over-elaboration is troubling conceptually and, more importantly, seems to yield dishes that are simply not as tasty the old fashioned fresh raw fish.

I don’t know. Maybe I’m just set in my ways, but too many of the preparations I had at Blu Coral tonight seemed to reflect a lack of sensitivity toward the basic aesthetic of simplicity and a desire to elaborate for the sake of presumed stylishness. Case in point: the eel, asparagus, spring greens and cucumber wrapped together and served with a sesame sauce artfully swirled, all of which tended to obliterate distinct flavors in one mushy mouthful. On the other hand, it looked great, as did the place itself and most of the people in it.

Tokyo 21
901 W. Weed
312.337.2001

Triad
1933 S. Indiana
312.225.8833

Kohan Japanese Restaurant
703 W. Maxwell
312-421-6254

Blu Coral
1265 N. Milwaukee, Chicago
773-252-2020

As one more data point on the gold leaf bit: I was once served a minced toro (maybe negitoro) gunkanzushi garnished with gold leaf at Katsu, and a few others on LTH have gotten gold garnishes there, also.

The best that can be said for gold leaf as a visual seasoning is at least it doesn't taste bad or, for that matter, like anything at all.

Honestly,
If I were served a plate with gold flakes on it, I would order more, and ask the sushi chef to please reserve the flakes, and also mention to them that I thought it was just plain silly. I'm guessing 5x outta ten, if the chef was japanese, they would send something over gratis in silent agreement. Fare that is pretentious (just to be pretentious and nothing else) irks me to no avail. I personally think such over-embellishment detracts from dishes. Let the "need to be seen" crowd over spend on this stuff for whatever reason they need to.

Sorry, I'm just a down to earth midwesterner. If I overheard someone expounding on the "fanciness" of gold flakes on the food at Katsu, or any of the other places, I would probably assume that they were just another poseur, and poke fun at them all night.

Gold flake on the food? Souldn't the food sparkle on it's own? Sorry, it's just plain silly to me. Sorry for the rant.

This probably well-known, but Mughlai food was often garnished with silver and/or gold leaf. This supposedly had Ayurvedic benefits but I'm sure there was an aspect of extravagant ostentation as well. You can get kulfi garnished with gold leaf in many places in the U.S.

And Escoffier has a receipe for gold leaf in bouillon which I would hazard was included strictly to meet the requirement for "extravagant ostentation."

Of course, these nouveau sushi joints weren't the first to use gold as a tasteless (and I mean that in several ways) condiment. The gilding of the food just seems so much more pointless on a cuisine that is, by tradition, so supremely simple.

Hey now. Ya'll check your history. Documented beautifully 0n this board: Urasawa, Matsumoto, Katsu etc. etc., gold flake and leaf used by one and all.

The visual element of sushi is pretty integral, and gold seems to be pretty well accepted by even the most traditional. Consider that the quixotic Matsumoto threw around the Au when the restaurant was intended for Japanese businessmen only.

Gold flake is a far cry from upside-down, inside-out, double krab krunch rolls.

(Not that this detracts from David's original point; those Sex in the City wannabe places are irritating.)

Jeff "meet me at Ginza Fish" B

JeffB, certainly the "gold as food" theme can be traced across multiple cuisines, as noted, but I think the prevalence of this tendency to over-elaborate a fundamentally* and elegantly simple cuisine is, circa 2007, mostly market driven and it's in response to the challenge, "With sushi places opening every day, how do I set my sushi apart? We're all selling raw fish; how do I make my raw fish different -- and, not incidentally, charge more for it?"

*Like Japanese art and architecture, traditional Japanese food seems to gain strength through a basic simplicity of execution. Certainly, there are exceptions, as noted, but they would seem to prove the rule.

Obviously, I need a drink - I misread this as sake

Further evidence of my damnation: I had a sake-tini last night.

David "Yeah, I know, and I felt ridiculous" Hammond

Keep in mind, Blue Coral is a medium to high end car wax. Coincidence? I think not...

Well, at least it's a high-end car wax.

Actually, I'm not sure if the sushi chef would feel the gold is a nod to anything going on in the United States' dining scene. In several meals I've had in Japan and also in high end no-fuss/full of salarymen/but expense account expensive places in NYC, there has been gold on toro.

I'm startin' a movement to keep the heavy metal off the plate and back on the i-pod.

There's no reason to assume the same market pressures do not apply in Chicago, Tokyo and NYC.

On the subject of consuming metal (and perhaps even gems ), check this ostentatiously expensive cocktail now on offer at Tavern at the Park:

Cloudgate
Grey Goose La Poire, Hpnotiq, homemade sour mix, pineapple juice and a Champagne Finish. Rimmed with edible silver and garnished with a little something special from your favorite luxury jeweler.
$199.00

(http://www.tavernatthepark.com/menu_drinks.htm)

Might that garnish be a bean of sorts?