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This is my route for a road trip to take this summer with the family. Chicago to Cleveland day 1; Cleveland to Morgantown, WV, where relatives live, day 2; Morgantown to Alexandria, VA/Washington DC area, where other relatives live, a day or two thereafter.

As you may guess these are not strenuous driving days-- 6 hours the first day, more like 4 on the other two-- so the plan is to stop and smell the roses, or better yet, the barbecue shacks, as well as stop for Civil War cemeteries, the National Crochet Hall of Fame, whatever swell things might be found along the way toodling slowly toward our nation's capital. The problem with this is the same problem you have getting anywhere from Chicago by car-- there are large, mostly empty midwestern states with names like "Ohio" and "Indiana" in the way. There may well not be any barbecue shacks to be had at all, actually. (Only chili.)

So, these are my questions:

1. Can you recommend anything reasonably close to the route which I have outlined here which I should make a point of stopping at?

2. I have to do all this in reverse, of course, to get home. Can you suggest a different way back which would take me close to other good things to eat/see?

I don't need suggestions in DC itself, thanks to this thread.

Edit: note new interactive and highway-indicating map!

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Perhaps a stop in Toledo, OH, for Lebanese at Beirut?

Of course, you're probably stopping at Lebanese Taverna in DC. But still, why not?

The "Winking Lizard" chain in the cleveland area has good wings, fine burgers, and a very extensive selection of beers, and might be worth a look when you reach cleveland.

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Ed Fisher
my chicago food photos

RIP LTH.

I agree. It would be nothing short of an international food crime for you to drive by Toledo and not go to the Beirut.

While the Beirut is not open for lunch, Byblos is. Byblos is owned by the same people, and has much of what the Beirut offers, but not everything.

Also in Toledo is the Toledo Market, a middle-eastern grocery store with a really good deli counter in the back with shwarma sandwiches and several homemade lamb, chicken stews, and roast chicken with spices.


Toledo Market: Roast Chicken with Spices


Toledo Market: Lamb and Okra Stew

And no trip to Cleveland is complete without a trip to the West Side Market. It's an old-world style city food market. At the NW corner of the building, near the (comparatively) upscale imported spices and foods store, is a bratwurst stand I'd highly recommend. Next to the market is Ohio City, with a pedestrian zone, Great Lakes Brewing Co., and more food stuff to do. The nearby Tremont neighborhood has several nice restaurants also.

Beirut
4082 Monroe St, Toledo, 43606 - (419) 473-0885
http://www.beirutrestaurant.com

Byblos
1050 S Reynolds Rd, Toledo, 43615 - (419) 382-1600
http://www.byblostoledo.com

Toledo Market
3410 Dorr St
Toledo, OH 43607
(419) 539-4262

West Side Market
(216) 579-0634
1979 W 25th St
Cleveland, OH 44113
http://www.westsidemarket.com/
note - only open some days

Farkas Pastry Shop
(216) 281-6200
2700 Lorain Ave
Cleveland, OH 44113
http://www.farkaspastries.com/
great napoleans and dobos tortes

Great Lakes Brewing Company
(216) 771-4404
2516 Market Ave
Cleveland, OH 44113
http://www.greatlakesbrewing.com/
food is only OK – go for the beer and atmosphere

Lola Bistro & Wine Bar
(216) 771-5652
900 Literary Rd
Cleveland, OH 44113
http://www.lolabistro.com/
great food – but very crowded and loud on weekends
closing to move downtown to a larger space; chef will reopen this location as a Greek restaurant

Theory
(216) 621-2301
2221 Professor Ave
Cleveland, OH 44113
http://www.theorydining.com/
also great food, higher-end restaurant

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there's food, and then there's food

Mike -- This Hoosier will try to ignore the gratuitous remark about "large, mostly empty" spaces (ever drive across the great, mostly empty state of Illinois toward Memphis?) and direct you to try the Cabin Club for dinner in Westlake, Ohio (western suburb of Cleveland). For several years I had a client in Westlake and had many wonderful meals at this converted roadhouse/beer and a shot joint. For the past 15 years or so it's been a very good steakhouse; before that it was a place where the bartender lined up three beers and a burger for you as you came in the door on your 20 minute lunch break. That's been replaced by Prime steaks and a wine list. Funny how things change, but if the Cabin Club hasn't taken a dive in the six or seven years since my last visit, you'll really enjoy it.

Cabin Club

If at all possible, do visit the West Side Market on your way through Cleveland. I spent many Saturday mornings there loading up on fruits, vegetables, meat, cheese, etc.

If you do go, spend some time walking around to figure out what's available or you might find yourself overloaded with purchases before you get out. I haven't been there in about two years, but if they're there, check out Ohio City Pasta for good fresh pasta and sauces and the woman selling more hot sauce and mustard than you can shake a stick at (forget her name).

Lelolai Bakery is close-by and a good place to check out on your way in or out. Latin (mostly Cuban, PR) bakery and deli. Strong coffee, hearty sandwiches, and good flan and baked goods.

Lelolai Bakery and Café
1889 W. 25th St.
Cleveland, OH 44113
216-771-9956

Happy travels,
Zee

Hi,

In Indiana, rather close to the Ohio border is Shipshewanna which is a Amish-Mennonite enclave. You can eat at the lunch counter across from Yoders Hardware Store shoulder-to-shoulder with the Amish.

There is an interesting museum just south of Yoder's on the Amish-Mennonites-Hutterites. It begins with a film, then a docent led tour. Toward the end, they have a simulated tornado. You go into this small room which is supposed to be a barn, jets of air coming from cracks, the room/barn shakes violently with the animals screaming as the tornado passes. I took my 3 year-old niece who was clinging to me like the last hope. Once it was over, she wanted to do it again.

&&&

In Ohio about 115 miles in, there is the Thomas Alva Edison birthplace museum, which I have yet to see despite many efforts but I usually am passing during off season. This is also an older, picturesque town where we once ate at a local restaurant, which was certainly not tollway food.

Another stop I have never made: Rutherford B. Hayes Presidential Museum, which has signage along the IL toll road.

If you don't go through Morgantown on your way home, but go through Maryland into Pennsylvania. We love going to Gettysburg. For $40 plus a tip, you can get a official guide to jump into the car to give a personal tour. I did that two years ago against the protests of my nieces. ONce they got engaged into the history, they were asking more questions than the adults. These guides have to pass an exam which requires a Master's Degree level of knowledge on the battle. Their reverence and deep respect for the sacrifices there is more meaningful and memorable than a cassette-directed tour.

In Fredricksburg, we also visit the Stern Roadfood recommended Barbara Fritchie (sp?) diner, named after a heroine of the American Revolution. Quaint with ladies wearing red pin stripped waitress outfits, eating scrapple and such. I like its uniqueness over Cracker Barrel.

I'll post later as I think of stuff.

Regards,

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Cathy2

"You'll be remembered long after you're dead if you make good gravy, mashed potatoes and biscuits." -- Nathalie Dupree
Facebook, Twitter, Greater Midwest Foodways, Road Food 2012: Podcast

I have previously recommended the New Sandusky Fish Market for fresh lake perch right on the water by the ferry docks in downtown Sandusky. And I agree emphatically with the Cleveland Westside Market recommendation. Finally, if, like me, you're always in the mood for smelt, I can recommend the ones at Hunan East in Richmond Heights Ohio.

Hunan East
(216) 381-2266
724 Richmond Rd
Cleveland, OH 44143

For your return trip, consider coming back due west then turning north through Indiana:
* Jungle Jim's market just outside of Cinci, the world's only megamart with a monorail
* The original home of KFC is just south of Frankfort, KY

Just curious why you chose this route. Having never taken a vacation anywhere but Detroit when we lived in Virginia until I was about 13, I am really familiar with this road. There's nothing really to see, and while the food in Toledo looks good, since they upgraded Interstate 68 (at the west end) and then I70 approaching DC (the National Freeway), I've always taken that route.

This sends you down through Indianapolis (which has been much written about) and Columbus, OH (some written about, I seem to remember posts about a nice market there like the one in Cleveland) and then through the panhandle of West Virginia and across the whole length of Maryland (it makes the state of Maryland seem as big as Iowa:-)

An added benefit is that because you are passing through a lot of less populated country (which you do on the Penn. and Ohio turnpikes also) you are doing it on a freeway, which means it's easier to hop off and on and make small local explorations, including following your nose to good food. You will also find at that time of year, if you care to look, local produce markets and may even find locally cured country hams.

Last time I drove it, we stopped somewhere in western Maryland, where at a very unimposing small town restaurant with a sign for fried fish, I had a really good fried fish platter that included catfish, oysters, and scallops.

Dare I suggest on this board that the scenery is better, the locals not so interstate-inured but actually friendly, and the food good in a way that is vanishing in fast food america. If you hit a place that has the traditional southern three vegetables plate, I would give it a try. You may also find some good barbecue, although I have not had time to explore this option.

Sorry, didn't catch that you were looking for an alternate route back, but I stand by my recommendations. Both routes take you right by Morgantown. I would check the weather. If you're going to run into bad rain/heat, I would recommend the National Freeway route for that leg. It's a much better road, and runs through the mountains where it's apt to be a bit (but every bit counts in that part of the country) cooler.

DC to Morgantown is an easy day, then to Naptown also easy. Naptown to Chgo leaves you enough time to enjoy some of the Naptown local sites and eats.

Noticed that your route takes you in or near Pittsburgh. The next time I am anywhere near Pittsburgh, I will definitely go well out of my way for a burger at Tessaro's. In fact, were it not for a wedding I have to attend here this weekend, I would be there for the Cubs / Pirates series and some of the best burgers I've ever had in my life. Any burger place serious enough to have their own butcher on staff to grind the meat every day is OK by me.

Others on this board would also suggest Primanti Bros. for a sandwich. My experience there was not so great, but their original location is in a cool little old warehouse-y district called, I believe, "The Strip", with lots of interesting food stuff to see. Wish I had more time to explore it when I was there last time. HollyEats' description of The Strip is Here.

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Heck, if you're going to stop in Cleveland, you might as well have their equally baffling version of a Primanti sandwich, at any of the various locations of Panini's Bar and Grill. These monstrous things only start to work after about 6+ beers.

You can get a whole sandwich, or (ugh) a jumbo sandwich:



But you said this was a family road trip, right?

Zee

I have some more ideas but as I need to get to the Metra Station very soon, I will get back with you later.

If you do the cabin Club in Westlake, do make reservations. The food is outstanding and therefore, the wait can be very long.

If you are stopping at the West Side Market, I would also make a stop at Alladin's Pita Bakery which offers some very good Middle Eastern specialties. It is located near Jacobs Field.

At the West Side Market, Lozados is a pretty good Puerto Rican restaurant. My favorite dish is the goat stew served with black beans and yellow rice.

Why did I choose this route? As opposed to further south through central Indiana and Ohio? Mainly because I've been to Dayton and Columbus (which I've posted about), and to Massillon (near Akron), relatively recently (and may be in Massillon again soon), where I've never been to Cleveland. So, I thought what the heck, Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and so on. Also, I had a vague idea there'd be more to do along the lakefront than in the middle of the state, though that could be wrong.

So anyway, I'm pretty much set going that way, but as I say there's always the way back. 68 to 70 to 65 (I think I'm going to put up a better map that shows these highways) does seem the other obvious route for the way back, but I didn't say that just in case someone wanted to suggest something else.

Thanks for all the great ideas and comments so far, and keep 'em coming.

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You won't see the lake in Cleveland. I am a real demon for getting off the interstate, and on a trip back through upstate New York a number of years ago, we took the "old" roads (US highways) that follow the lakefront from Erie, PA until west past Cleveland. Barely saw the lake.

Unless a lot has changed in Cleveland since then, their lakefront is not only invisible, but when you can see it, it's not that attractive.

Which is not to say that there aren't other reasons to visit Cleveland.

The food, at least as pictured, looks good.

Before they finished the National Highway, we used to regularly drive back from DC on US highways across MD and WV and through southern Ohio. Two lane roads, sometimes slow if there's a truck ahead of you, sometimes slow because you were winding through the mountains. But a delightful route, somewhat different than the National Highway.

The closest you'll get to the lake is before Cleveland, near Sandusky and Lorain. Surprisingly lovely parts of the country.

If you have not been to Pittsburgh, and you have to choose between Cleveland and the smaller but more physically attractive and compact Pittsburgh, well, you need to see Pittsburgh. The downtown is one of those super-compact urban areas that is demanded by geography, like Manhattan, the Loop, San Francisco, Copacabana, etc. Though the city is small, the center of town is dense, bustling and interesting almost always.

Don't get me wrong, Cleveland is also nice place to visit, despite the outdated reputation.


http://lthforum.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=728

I guess it's getting to be that ramblin' time of year again. Contrary to the suggestion that there's nothing between here and the East Coast, Toledo and Cleveland/P'Burgh make perfect stops.

Kids will love riding the incline in P'Burgh, like the SF cable car on steroids. Like the cable car and the Brown Line El, it is a working museum piece.

http://incline.pghfree.net/

Regarding Primanti Bros., I am an apologist, but that doesn't mean I think you should go there over the more LTHish Tessaro's. It's just that Primanti's is in the way-cool Strip.

PS, Panini's of Cleveland is, um, "inspired" very much by Primanti's over in P'Burgh.

Umm, I don't want to sound contrary here, but the Rock 'n Roll Hall of Fame is right on the lake. Admittedly, Cleveland doesn't show off its lakefront the way Chicago does, but besides the Hall of Fame, there's also the William G. Mather Museum--a real oreboat, and the Great Lakes Science Center--all right together by the Hall of Fame.

Yeah, sure, that was kind of sloppy; downtown Toledo is on the lake, too, or at least just down river and you can see it. I was following up on the statement about the state of Cleveland's waterfront. Some great towns have pristine shores that are sort of the centerpiece (Chicago, Miami) others have working waterfronts that aren't much to look at.

Should've said "beach," or similar.

I was also thinking about sticking close to the interstate; the lake is not too close driving past Cleveland, but very near at Lorain. But if you are in Cleveland, you are on the lake.

I always forget about the Rock & Roll museum. I take it that you find it worth a detour?

Cleveland rocks.

Yeah, I realize that that 1/16th of an inch on the map between the highway and the lakefront is a lot more in reality. The reason for following the close-ish to the lake route is the theory that there is more history along there, as it was one of the earlier parts to be settled. Having actually been to Toledo and thereabouts, and having run across some minor bits of history there (a Confederate burial ground, for one thing-- they were prisoners held up that way), it seems a reasonable theory. We'll see!

I don't really mean to rag on Ohio, it's denser than Kansas, Lord knows. But I'm looking forward to the east coast where vaguely interesting things are a few miles apart, not an hour apart.

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