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Let me start by offering up Cafe Marianao.

Marianao is named after a beach town near Havana. Our Marianao is a quintesentially Cuban establishmnet, though I'd wager that the majority of customers are actually Puerto Rican, Central and South American. Marianao is hyper-urban but not particularly Chicagoan (even Latino-Chicagoan) in a way that is hard to pin down. The whole experience, from the physical plant to the customers to the staff seem to have been lifted from a corner in the DR, or Panama, or Calle Ocho and dropped onto Milwaukee Avenue. Marianao is Pan-Caribbean Afro-Latino, I guess. I think that's a census category.

The coffee, both the cafe Cubano and the cafe con leche, is right. It fits squarely within the paradigm. It is as it should be. If you don't like it, well, don't blame Marianao and don't expect to like the coffee in Miami or Tampa or Havana. It is not espresso in the Italian tradition, it is cafe Cubano in the Cuban tradition, as much about sugar and technique as it is about coffee beans. The importance of the coffee at Marianao is reflected by the fact that Marianao offers, exclusively, Cuban toast -- pan tostado con mantequilla. Only at Marianao can one have the traditional toast, pressed on the plancha, dipped into cafe con leche. It is the best breakfast in Chicago.

The sandwiches are very good too, particularly the sandwiches that are not the sanguiche mixto, the "Cubano" as they say. I'm something of a purist and think that a really good Cuban sandwich place should not use processed cheese and should roast its own pork daily. For Cubans here, I prefer La Unica. But the Cuban steak sandwich and the "pan con tortilla" or omlette sandwich are very good examples of each. And the vibe, though sometimes intimidating, is great.

Marianao remains somewhat mysterious. While often packed, few long-time, Chicago-area Cubans know about it in my experience. The clientelle are more recent immigrants, largely single men who, like recently arrived Greeks, Barese and Balkans, have a cafe culture void that must be filled -- in this case, by Marianao.

Chicago is thin on Cuban, but it does have two establishments that I sincerely believe would make it in Miami, La Unica and my GNR nominee Marianao.

Cafe Marianao
2246 N. Milwaukee Ave.
Chicago, IL 60647
773-278-4533

La Unica
1515 W. Devon Ave.
Chicago, IL
773-274-7788

Having been one of the first to mention Cafe Marianao once upon a time, I second.

Especially JeffB's comments about the coffee, not to expect an Italian espresso. I still long for the cafezinhos of Brasil, which Marianao approaches. Lots of sugar and thick strong coffee.

I used to occasionally have meetings nearby that included a Miami-bred Cubano, and he would arrive with his cafe Cubano in one of those little salsa cups and drink it while the rest of us were offered pop or tap water. I haven't tried the pan tostado, but will.

On another note, I keep trying to remember if a new Cuban place I haven't tried is on Sacramento or California, and closer to North or Armitage? It's another little storefront, I just haven't had time or money to stop and try.

But it definitely looks like a neighborhood place.

Sounds like the place next to Miko's Logan Sq. location, 2200 block of N. Sacramento. I also keep meaning to stop and check it out but I'm always on my way from here to there (or there to here).

Jeff,

I'd like to add my voice to Cafe Mariano, a true gem of a place. A little rough round the edges, and service can be daunting, until you learn the Cafe Mariano, Secret to Quick Service, but the sandwiches, coffee and overall atmosphere are hard to beat.

Enjoy,
Gary

I had the pleasure of sampling a coffee and a sandwich at Marinao during the Milwaukee-thon, and was delighted. It was during my (re)discovery of cuban foods, when a long weekend in Tampa convinced me that my chronic disappointment with the offerings of Versailles (Miami) was about that place, and not all the food of Cuba.

Some coffee and pan tostado sounds darn good right now. Marinao is a great choice.

At one time, I recall quite a few postings on Marinao, and the other cuban options around. Does that all date back to CH?

LTH,

I enthusiastically endorse Cafeteria Marianao for LTHForum GNR renomination, though it does not surprise me that there has not been volumes of continuing discussion on it's joys. Cafeteria Marianao is a simple place, no seating, only a few offerings, mildly inaccessible to non Spanish speakers, of which I am one, and a disorganized ordering system. Though I discovered the Secret to Quick Service at Marianao.

I stop in at least once a month for a steak or Cuban sandwich and have been know to go miles out of my way for an early morning fix of cafe con leche, terrific with lightly buttered bread, toasted in the press, dunked in the sugary light tan brew.

In thinking about Marianao for this post I realized I mostly take it for granted, heck, I don't even have a picture of one of the sandwiches. With that realization I fully intend to go in the next week, enjoy a cafe con leche and sandwich and take pictures. Though I encourage anyone who has an appetite for perfectly proportioned toasty sandwiches and Cuban coffee to beat me to the punch, picture and/or post.

Enjoy,
Gary

I visited Cafe Mariano a couple days ago for a Cuban sandwich breakfast. What can I say; the place is great and deserves a renewal...even though the fact that they are a GNR winner means less than nothing to the staff who happily go about their business of turning out one of the two best examples of Cuban sandwiches in the city, while keeping up a non-stop stream of Hispanic style shucking and jiving behind the counter. You can tell they are all happy to be working there and it shows in their attitude and the food.

Has anyone been to the second out post of Marianao? I believe it's on Armitage, west of Pulaski somewhere.

AnnieB,

I've been, though not for year or more. I remember the sandwich and coffee being good, but not as atmospheric as Marianao on Milwaukee.

Enjoy,
Gary

Cafeteria Marianao
2246 N. Milwaukee Ave
Chicago, IL
773-278-4533

Cafeteria Marianao
4825 W. Armitage
Chicago, IL
773-889-4973

LTH,

As a staunch proponent of Cafe Marianao's GNR renewal I posted pictures and text of Saturday's breakfast with JeffB and Michael M (EatChicago)

Post may be found here

Enjoy,
Gary

This restaurant is currently up for GNR renewal. Please post your comments below.

Thanks,

=R=
for the GNRs

Given the fact that absolutely nothing has changed about this place since the first GNR award (probably including the oil the cook the steak for the steak sandwiches... ye that is a good thing) I can't see any reason why Marianao would not be renewed a third time.

Stagger,

Nothing has changed, including the fact simply walking into Marianao makes me smile. Love the energy, love the cafe con leche, both Cuban and steak sandwich, though steak is single only, a double throws off the meat/onion/toasted bread balance.

Support for continued GNR status from this Marianao fan.

Enjoy,
Gary

Exactly.

More on Mariano here:

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