On one of those trips back through the Dempster wilds of Skokie, hunger overcame us just before we got to McCormick Blvd - having travelled most of the roads on this strip, we followed Robert Frost to Ken's Diner, an old-fashioned jukebox-style place, well-covered with kitsch and pervasive shabbiness that somehow didn't strike me negatively - it reminded me a bit of a stuffed animal that's had all the fur loved off its ears. The air was filled with nostalgia radio; in general, I felt as though I was stepping through a time portal to a drive-in concession in 1950s midsummer. (I'd always surmised this was a small full-service diner, but it's more of a soda fountain with hotdogs and sandwiches.) As we poked around, curious, we saw a second section decorated like a tiki bar, but dark. The counterman noted (re: the empty tiki-bar decorated area) "that's milk, this is meat," and I remembered that Ken's was a kosher restaurant.
Hard to tell this when you walk in, as you're immediately greeted by a full ice cream refrigerator right next to signs for hot dogs, but it turns out all the ice cream is soy-based pareve. We were clearly the only goyim the place has seen for many a month, although it didn't seem to phase either the counter staff or the few patrons who were scattered around on a snowy Monday. The day's special was a "Buffalo Chicken" sandwich with a kitschy title I don't recall, so I perused the menu and noticed a BLT - with "beef fry" instead of bacon.
I bellied up to the counter and ordered one, complimenting him on their choice of meat. Hubs opted for the sandwich special, and we were directed to sit down and wait for our order "because it makes me look like I'm workin' if I bring it out to ya." Sandwiches were pretty good, if a little pricey for what they were: beef fry was thinly sliced fatty beef that had been deep fried. Though it wasn't bacon, it had a nice crunch and made for a good sandwich - it might have been pastrami or corned beef before it met the boiling oil. Both sandwiches suffered a bit from being over-mayoed, but it was pretty much what I'd been expecting. The BLT was served on SWB; I would probably order it again if I could change the bread to rye. Pricier than it's dog-stand cousin, it also had a good bit more meat, and came with freezer-style steak fries that had been fried until all the bad squooshiness was fried out of them. Hubby's chicken sandwich was kind of a composite hybrid of chicken salad served on something like a Turano roll; again, a bit pricey for what it was and a bit oversauced, but not bad. If you don't mind paying a bit more (sandwiches come with fries, but each was around $8) for the time-travel, kosher experience, this is a gentle way to check it out. (Sorry for the cell-phone shots.)


Ken's Diner & Grill
http://www.kensdiner.com3353 West Dempster Street
Skokie, IL 60076-2411
(847) 679-2850