JoelF wrote:Has the sale happened, or is there a chance for a bunch of us to do a last blowout?
Hey buddy--
Apparently it's a done deal as of June 1. Last day appears to be this coming Tuesday. They will close for 2 weeks and re-open under new management.
Whether the fare will be the same, or even similar...it never is, is it? But there's hope. I remember back in 1980, leafing through the back pages of Chicago Magazine, in search of blurbs on new restaurants to try. And Koto stood out, as a non-teppan-yaki entrance to Japanese cuisine. And in the same building as the eventual Renga-Tei.
In the mid-'70's, I had worked for about a year as busboy, then parking attendant, at Tanikaze Steak House on N. Lincoln, now (I think) home to Via Veneto. It was there--and I was in high school--that I developed a love for Kirin beer on tap & the sukiyaki that the chefs made for the help in the back of the house at the end of a long night. Those chefs--all brought over from Tokyo-- taught me all the indigenous swear words as well. What fascinating times!
At any rate, we started frequenting Koto late in 1980. It was most definitely a mom-and-pop operation, Mr. & Mrs. Yoshimura--I think that was the name. They were gracious and absolutely loved my parents, plying them with their signature plum wine gratis at the end of every meal. We exchanged Christmas presents & cards for years. The food was stellar, albeit with only about one-third of the menu choices that Renga has. Beef teriyaki with just a little grilled fat on the perimeter--like you'd see on a steak--was incredible. And I learned to love saba shioyaki--the mackerel--as well as my all-time favorite, their rendition of beef sukiyaki.
In the late 1980's, apparently the husband developed a chronic disease where he slowly was losing his eyesight. His wife soldiered on, and I would see Mr. sitting in the back, stoically on a straight-backed chair, wearing sunglasses & with a somber look on his face. Eventually, the stress got to be too much, and I believe it was in 1991 when Chef Yamada--who I think was a chef at Koto--took over.
As the new Renga-Tei, he did a most excellent job of carrying on the 'comfort food' tradition, and his expansions to the formerly limited menu were almost all winners. Absolutely dug their version of ikura don--hot white rice topped with those orange pearls of salmon roe--a flavor explosion! A friend of mine raved about their homemade potato salad.
We are looking forward to trying Naoki's incarnation, hoping he pays proper homage to the chefs before him.