I had a meeting out in the vicinity of Elmhurst, so I decided to grab a couple of sandwiches. I appreciate what they are trying to do at Zenwich. I really do. The husband and wife team that owns the joint was as nice as could be when they saw me staring at the menu, trying to figure out what I should order. They were super friendly, clearly proud and excited about their business, and eager to make recommendations. All of this was promising.
Unfortunately, the food just didn't live up to the promise.
I ordered a
crab cake sandwich (panko crusted crab cake, baby greens, homemade creamy garlic sauce) and ate it right there in the store. One of the owners strongly recommended it. I wondered how they were able to sell a decent crab cake sandwich for $7.50. My suspicions were well-founded. It was fine, but very skimpy and unremarkable. I get it, crab is expensive. So charge me $12.50 and give me enough for me to call it lunch. (Maybe my unusually healthy appetite is to blame? Ah well.)
Fortunately, I still had a couple more sandwiches, a soba noodle salad, some chips, and some slaw, which I drove to the Loop to share with Ronna for lunch pt. II:
We had the
Mu Ping sandwich (grilled pork, pickled carrot and daikon, cucumber, red onion, jalapeno, cilantro, sweet mayonnaise). It's hard to improve on the classic grilled pork banh mi, and this sandwich failed to do so. Again, skimpy on the meat, and the meat and toppings just lacked the flavor and zing that I expected.
Next up, the
pork katsu sandwich (panko crusted fried pork cutlet, coleslaw, baby greens, Japanese BBQ sauce, and mustard). I was really excited about this one, but again, I was disappointed. The pork cutlet was so very very thin. And tough. And the tonkatsu sauce wasn't quite right. Oh well, another miss for me.
The
soba noodle salad was mushy and bland. We didn't finish it. The slaw and chips were fine, but again, unremarkable.
There are two possible explanations for how disappointed we were with the food. First, everything but the crab cakes had to travel from Elmhurst to the Loop. That couldn't have helped. Second, and I believe this is the more likely reason, is that Ronna and I know what the inspiration foods for these sandwiches are supposed to taste like. The Mu Ping just wasn't anywhere near as tasty as a good old Nhu Lan #4. The pork katsu sandwich was a pale imitation of a pork tonkatsu at Renga-Tei or Tampopo. I don't know if Zenwich is aiming for gussied up or dumbed down, but either way, I think that they are missing the mark.
I hate to say it, but I can't support Zenwich for GNR.
--Rich
I don't know what you think about dinner, but there must be a relation between the breakfast and the happiness. --Cemal Süreyya