In
another thread discussing our recent meal at Le Titi de Paris, I referred to our meal just the night before at Oceanique in these words: “Interestingly, the Lovely Dining Companion and I ate at Oceanique the night before. Had we not done so, I would have probably been more impressed. But everything at Oceanique—the presentations, the service, and the quality of the food—was so superb that it overshadowed even the presentation and quality at Le Titi de Paris.” I promised to write something up when the time arose and this is that promised post.
The Lovely Dining Companion and I made an offer on a house in Evanston. After more than 18 months of searching, we actually managed to find a house we liked in a neighborhood that we liked. So what if we couldn’t afford it? To celebrate, we ate at Oceanique. In a nutshell, the best meal I’ve had in ages. Ages. (Excluding the kitchen “counter” at Avenues for my birthday a few months ago, but that’s apples/oranges.) As it happened, we couldn’t agree with the sellers on a price and so we didn’t get the house (yet), but I still consider the day a great success. I can’t remember enjoying a meal more: the service was very good (if unpolished), the food, absolutely excellent, and the presentations among the very best I’ve ever seen.
The rooms (there are two) for those who have never been are vaguely (at least to me), rococo and a bit...fustian (is that the word?). Never mind. They are human-sized rooms: cozy, warm, and like eating at Grandma’s house. I wouldn’t have decorated them this way, but then, I eat at home most nights and I’m occasionally tired of my choices too. Besides, it’s healthy to eat in someone else’s house once in a while. Our waiter seemed young—grad-student-at-Northwestern young. But who knows? His service was not polished but he more than made up for his errors of omission and commission by an eagerness to please and a genuine warmth that contrast with all too many professional servers. Yes, I would have preferred that he notice x or take care of y without being prompted. But I’d far rather have his sincere pleasure in serving and making us feel comfortable than a professional just going through his or her paces. His eagerness was endearing (don’t I sound like your proverbial maiden aunt?) and we enjoyed his efforts.
Appetizers were truly appetizing introductions to the meal awaiting us. LDC began with a pear, watercress and gorgonzola salad, topped with candied walnuts and a buttermilk dressing. Nothing cutting edge but certainly a composition that can be done poorly. Her pet peeve is overdressed salads and she asked that it be dressed very lightly. They did so. Rather than put the dressing on the side (always a bit inconvenient), the kitchen fielded the request and handled it perfectly. One wouldn’t think this a difficult challenge, but I can attest to far too many kitchen that simply didn’t understand. The salad was charming (not to mention delicious). I opted for seared sea scallops in a lobster-cilantro broth with choy sum (a bok choy relative from all I could gather) and ginger. The only difficulty I had was deciding whether it tasted better than it looked or vice versa. Seventeen thumbs up and we were just getting started.
Dinner for the Lovely Dining Companion was a special that evening: a wild Alaskan white salmon. I wish I could report on more of the details but we took no notes (this was a celebration) and the dish is not listed on the on-line menu. To the best of LDC’s recollection, it was pan-fried and accompanied with a poblano-cilantro sauce, a great complement. LDC is very sensitive to heat levels and the poblano was, as promised, quite mild. The intriguing thing for both LDC and I was that the fish tasted rich and buttery without the characteristic “salmon” flavor. It’s a meaty fish, new to both of us, and it was quite enjoyable. If there was a criticism, LDC found it a bit lacking in flavor (a criticism I didn’t share), a flaw more than compensated for by the sauce.
I debated long and hard. Oceanique is, as one might expect, a seafood place. My problem was choosing among the various alternatives on the relatively small/mid-sized menu. Everything tempted in its own way. I even entertained some of the carnivorous options so hard was it to choose from the seafood. Finally, after much agony, I settled on the house version of bouillabaise. What had put me off a bit was the inclusion of salmon, something I have never seen (to my recollection) in bouillabaise before. Salmon is not—how to say this?—my favorite fish. And I was concerned that including it in a bouillabaise just wouldn’t work. But, relying on the restaurant’s reputation and the positive sign that everything else on the menu sounded delectable, I placed myself in the hands of Mark Grosz, chef de cuisine and owner. A better decision I haven’t made in quite some time. Lord knows there were enough other things going on in this dish: halibut, barramundi, shrimp, scallops, squid and mussels, all accompanied by the “standard” crouton with aioli. (The aioli, if nits be picked, was a bit underspiced for my taste. Still, the round richness and depth of flavor nearly compensated for falling short on the heat quotient.)
When the dishes arrived, I was concerned. The portions appeared to be small. Well, okay, I was concerned for me. LDC is a small woman and a small-appearing portion wouldn’t likely pose much of a problem. But mine was small-appearing, too. Silly me. That’s why Mark Grosz is the chef and I’m not. The small pond of broth encircling the island of seafood in the center was clearly tomato based, more in the cream of tomato school than in the bouillon pedagogical camp. I forgot all about the salmon. I took yet another moment to appreciate the work of art that was the plate placed before me. It may not have been perfect, but I don’t think I’ll ever see better. Every single plate we had been served, appetizers and entrees both (and dessert still to come), bore the evidence of single-minded attention to detail in service of pleasure. The plates themselves were beautiful and the presentations simply unbeatable. This is the kind of devotion that makes an evening out a joy. How can one not enjoy the food? And enjoy we did. Both of us. Even to the point that I may have embarrassed LDC by demanding more bread, the better to sop up the sauce. Too good to leave even an ounce of evidence.
(To accompany, a Spanish wine I knew nothing of: 2004 Coto de Hayas. The server said that it had a strawberry note. I thought he was kidding but, by the glass options were limited and it seemed like the best choice. He was right: strawberry. And the strawberry note was immediately evident. A little research since has disclosed that the wine is made from garnacha (ah, grenache!) and a Spanish grape I know nothing of, tempranillo. It spends six months in new French oak and, as recommended by our “grad student,” it worked perfectly with the bouillabaise. Enough acid, well-balanced, lots of flavor. Although the by-the-glass selection was smallish, the bottle selection was impressive as hell; their website advertises that “Oceanique has won Wine Spectator Magazine’s coveted "Award of Excellence" every year since 1994.” I believe it and only wish we could have chosen from the bottles. But since LDC doesn’t drink, that will have to await a visit in other company.)
Dinner for two, including one glass of wine, tax, but without tip: about $120. All in all, a wonderful, relaxing, enjoyable evening with some of the best food, stellar presentations, and cozy
ambiance it’s been my pleasure to enjoy in a long time.
Oceanique
505 Main St
Evanston, IL 60202
(847) 864-3435
http://www.oceanique.com(moderator edit: address)
Gypsy Boy
"I am not a glutton--I am an explorer of food." (Erma Bombeck)