Premise - 5420 N Clark St, ChicagoMy wife and I made our way to Premise earlier this week for a multi-leg session that included a round of cocktails in the downstairs bar, a few more rounds upstairs in The Salon and dinner back downstairs in the dining room.
To start downstairs, I had a pour of the IFS house-select barrel of Elmer T. Lee bourbon, which is drinking very nicely right now. It's smooth and delivers notes of caramel and vanilla but it still has a restrained bite, which I appreciate. My wife had a Last Word, which Josh mixed up very nicely. It straddled the line nicely between sweet and tart, and I thought the use of Death's Door gin was a particularly good choice. Its botanicals work very well in this cocktail, especially with the chartreuse. After that round, the clock struck 6 and we headed upstairs to The Salon for a few more rounds from Luke Lefiles . . .
Swizzle VariantI told Luke I was in the mood for rum and he spent the better part of our session playing around with several different flavor profiles. Here, he riffed off a Stamford Raffles very successfully.
It's always tough to leave a bar you love when you're having a good time but man cannot live on cockails alone. We knew it was time for dinner. Happily, at Premise this is hardly a step down (though, it is downstairs). The smells coming out of the kitchen had been tempting us all night, which made going downstairs to have dinner easier than it might have otherwise been. Once seated, we were started off with this excellent bread service . . .
Popover with Goat Cheese and Honey ButterI've now had this twice and it is fantastic. I really love the tangy-rich creamed goat cheese (conveniently painted on the plate) but nothing says excess like excess, so mixing it with the salty-sweet honey butter (not pictured) was especially delightful.
Again, it was Wednesday night, so complimentary pairings were available with the 3-course tasting menu. However, we didn't exactly go in that direction. Instead, we ordered several dishes that I hadn't tried on my previous visits. We ended up ordering 6 a la carte courses to share (5 new to me) but the house comped our pairings nonetheless. That was very kind, especially because in some instances we got a couple different pairings, as Scott Noorman was working out some new pairings and wanted our take on his work. I'm always happy to be a guinea pig in the name of quality control.

First up, a light and lovely amuse . . .
Amuse | cold sorrel soup, Jonah crab, creme fraiche, pink peppercorn
Pairing: Jean Vessell Brut ChampagneVery intuitively, our 6 courses were coursed out for us 2 at a time . . .
Round 1
Spot Prawns | tapioca pearls, lime zest, coconut powder, thai basil, red curry, frothed ginger, micro cilantro, toasted coconut
Pairing: 2011 Ameztoi, Getariako Txakolina, Rubentis, SpainFirst and foremost, the prawns here were cooked perfectly and reminded me of my recent trip to Charleston, SC. That's pretty much where the similarities ended, though. I loved the Asian flavors here. There was a nice bit of heat imparted into the tapioca pearls (a function of steeping them with chiles after they are cooked) and I thought the toasted coconut played almost like a coconut bacon. It went exceedingly well with the prawns.
Fluke Tartare | uni sabayon, toasted nori, sea beans, wild rice, lotus root, dashi gel
Pairing 1: 2009 Tatomer “Vandenberg” Dry Riesling, Santa Barbara CountyPairing 2: NV Bodegas La Cigarrera Manzanilla Sherry, PalominoI loved this dish so much the last time, I had to have it again. It was just as wonderful this time around. Scott asked us for our opinion on which pairing worked better with the dish. I thought they were both well-chosen but preferred the sherry mainly because it married up very nicely with the nuttiness of the crispy wild rice.
Round 2
Fava Agnolotti | country ham, morel mushrooms, wood sorrel, ramp ragout
Pairing: 2008 Julius Wasem & Söhne, Ingelheimer Sonnenhang Spätburgunder, TrockenI cannot say enough about how delicious this dish was. The agnolotti were stupendous, as were the other expertly rendered components on the plate. This was delectable Spring on a plate.
Tempura Sweetbreads | black bean, micro shiso, bok choy, chow chow, xo sauce
Pairing: 2006 Mastri Vinai Bressan Pinot Grigio Venezia Giulia IGT, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, ItalyMore often than not this course would be paired with a red but Scott felt that because of the mild funk of the sweetbreads and the stronger funk of the house-made xo sauce, this intense white would match up nicely. I think he really nailed it, as did chef. The dish was well-conceived and beautfully executed.
Round 3
Spring Lamb | fried chickpeas, miners lettuce, baby zucchini, sesame seed, Greek yogurt, green almonds
Pairing: Semplicemente Vino Bellotti Rosso BiodinamicoAnother successful plate. I loved the accompaniments here almost as much as the perfectly cooked lamb. The fried chickpeas (also pickled?) and green almonds provided great flavor and textural contrast.
Duck Breast | glazed turnip, dragon fruit, ruby mustard, borage flower
Pairing: 2007 Domaine Catherine Le Goeuil Côtes du Rhône Villages CairanneThis is the one course that really didn't work for me. In spite of how well cooked it was, it was just a bit too sweet for my palate. However, I thought the wine was sensational...quite possibly my favorite of the evening.
What followed next were all 3 desserts on the menu (and 2 more pairings), which the house very generously sent out for us. We were definitely too full to have ordered them for ourselves but it was great to get to try them all. In all 3 cases, there was a lot more than sweetness going on. Ingredients that one normally thinks of a savory were adeptly pushed toward sweet, as chef coaxed subtle sweet notes out of them. Other components were more brazenly savory, creating some fairly distinctive finishers . . .
Walnut Financier | banana meringue, rum anglaise, lemon balm, maple sorbet
Pairing: 2008 Chateau Haut Sarthes, Late-Harvest SemillonGreat flavors here with, rightly so, the financier being the star.
Carrot Cake | honey comb, fromage blanc, pea gelato, freeze-dried peas
Pairing: 2008 Chateau Haut Sarthes, Late-Harvest SemillonNot exactly the peas and carrots we had to choke down as kids.

Chocolate Torte | ancho crumble, horchata custard, chorizo espuma, cinnamon ice cream
Pairing: Carpano Antica Formula VermouthI loved the ancho and cinnamon in combination with the chocolate. This was my favorite of the 3, and the CAF pairing was terrific. I generally like my desserts a lot more straightforward than these but I really appreciated the skill, imagination, enthusiasm and effort that went into these compositions. OTOH, my wife absolutely loved them and was entirely thrilled with how not sweet they all were.
I've been reading a little bit lately in other quarters about some pushback from A'Ville residents over Premise. It seems that there's some neighborhood unhappiness about it having replaced In Fine Spirits. I can understand the displeasure over losing a regular, ultra-casual spot so close to home but Premise aims so much higher than IFS ever did. It's now destination dining and it's still plenty casual, even though the cuisine is more elevated than what was served at IFS. Chef Runge and sous chef Ben Reaves are immensely talented individuals who, I believe, can legitimately put Andersonville on the fine-dining map through their work at Premise. It was a ballsy move by the owners to make such a substantial change and I really hope it pays off for them. There are some distinctive culinary voices at Premise and it's a very exciting place.
=R=
By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada
Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS
There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM
That don't impress me much --Shania Twain