A couple of weeks ago I listened to
Jason Hammel's interview on the Joiners Podcast (which is likely on y'all's radar, but if not I recommend.) I found it to be pretty moving – both his thoughtful approach to community and also history that I experienced firsthand. Cue, nostalgia trip...
I moved to Logan in 2001. It was a reasonable, quiet, and conveniently located neighborhood to rent in back then. But it was kinda boring for 20 something hipsters like us. Our neighbors were elderly Poles and Latino families. There were a handful of Mexican restaurants dotting Diversey and Kedzie and scary bars on Milwaukee, but that was about it. I had friends who would frequent Logan Beach, but I never made it there. But by the time I moved there it was baby Lula. I remember passing through the cramped, muggy kitchen to get to the bathroom, the vegan sushi – it was a very 90's/Y2K little Bohemia vibe.
We really started to hang there when they opened the bar, maybe 03 or 04. Again, there weren't many drinking options for kids like us in the neighborhood – we'd schlep down to Quencher's most often. The Whirlaway had a neighborhood vibe back then, but was always pretty welcoming. But within walking distance, the Two Way was always a risky endeavor. Lula was cute, cozy, and had great drinks. And my friend Rae was their very first bartender, so it became our local.
The food was a bit of a splurge for us, even in the earlier days. I tended to favor the café menu, the roast chicken was an especially good deal. I definitely enjoyed many meals over the years after they introduced the seasonal, cheffy menus. But while I could recognize the quality of the ingredients, I typically found everything to be a bit under-seasoned for my taste. Halloween was always the best, when they dressed up like another restaurant. One of my favorite meals I ever ate there was "Taco Hell" with artisanal gordita crunch wraps. Bayless was there dressed as the devil.
Regardless of my personal taste, Lula is, without a doubt, one of the most important restaurants in Chicago, of all time. For me, the best thing they do is foster community – it's always been inviting to diners, but what Jason has done to support his artist staff is beyond reproach, offering not just a liveable wage, but also the flexibility for creative people to pursue their art. This support has helped the art community thrive in Chicago. Viva Lula!
I can't wait to pick up the cookbook.