Not all that long ago, the only place in the Greater Chicago area to get a respectable bowl of ramen of any style was Santouka at the Mitsuwa Market in Arlington Heights. But over the last few years, with the ramen craze hitting the national food scene, other legitimately good bowls gradually became available around Chicago, just as has happened in other U.S. cities.
Recently, I’ve been wondering how my favorite bowls of Chicago ramen would stake up against each another if they were tried as a bang-bang-bang-bang, as Louie CK might put it - meaning eaten consecutively one right after another. Laikom & I recently took up this challenge, trying bowls from Santouka , Ramen Misoya, Oiistar Ramen, and the newly-opened High Five Ramen. Three of five bowls we tried were tonkotsu, one a clam ramen, and the other a miso ramen. Enjoyment was our only criteria. We didn’t want to worry too much about comparing relative styles. Only about how much we truly enjoyed each bowl on their own merits.
The following bowls are presented in the order in which we ate them throughout the day:
Ramen Misoya (Mount Prospect) –
Kome Miso RamenA tasty and toothsome square noodle. The grilled chashu (sliced pork) is fatty and is only lightly and pleasantly marinated while the broth is bold but not overly so. Salty for sure but not over-the-top. The bowl contains chashu, sliced potato, memna, ground pork, sprouts, and scallion.
I’m generally not a big fan of mixing ground pork with chashu but the Kome Miso Ramen is a rock solid effort on all others fronts with the noodles and the broth being the notable standouts. Overall: A
Ramen Santouka (Arlington Heights) –
Miso TonkotsuA thinner-than-usual noodle (traditional Hokkaido-style). A bit less flavorful a noodle than Misoya’s and a tad drier but I find them still enjoyable since they absorb the luscious fattiness of the broth nicely. The broth here is clearly the star of the bowl as it is not overly salty like many tonkotsu efforts, having almost nutty/mushroomy characteristics to its velvety pork base. A thin sheath of fat caps the soup keeping it hot for a long while. Good chashu and not overly marinated. Overall: A-/B+
High Five Ramen (Chicago) –
High Five Ramen(Sorry, no pic. Too dungeonous in there. Nonetheless, I love this intimate, 17-seat basement space.)
I, unfortunately, made the mistake this time of asking for the High Five Ramen without the mega-potent black garlic oil infusion since the first two times I tried it, the garlic completely overwhelmed all the other bold flavors (fresh black pepper, chile, salt, and pork) in this viscous slurry of a broth. I just returned from L.A. where the present craze there seems to be towards serving
mega-intense tonkotsu broths. A huge interest in tsukemen (dipping ramen) is also something to be found at many notable places there and is definitely something I’m betting will become big in Chicago over the next few years.
It’s possible that since they didn’t include the black garlic oil that they felt the need to amp up the chile factor, making this intense broth an unbalanced mess. The tasty round noodles were served perfectly toothsome while the
honjuku egg was beautifully molten and was also served not chilled. The chashu had the texture of a slice of less fatty, super-succulent brisket that one might find at a BBQ joint in Lockhart, Texas (Black’s, Smitty’s, Kreuz Market) sans the smoke element.
Excellent individual components such as the noodles and chashu but the broth, at least on this day, was subpar. Overall: B/B-
Oiistar (Chicago) –
Oiimen (Pic provided by Mateo Zatkoff)
Oiistar makes five types of ramen – three of which I didn’t at all care for (Pozolmen, Tikkamen, and Spicy Veggimen) being unnecessarily busy while using some odd ingredients (Jalapeno peppers, masala spicing, or avocado, for example). However, Oiistar’s classic tonkotsu-style
Oiimen is one of Chicago’s really good bowls of ramen.
The oiimen is made with thin square noodles, chashu, ground pork, scallion, woodear mushrooms, sprouts, and a
honjuku egg. The less weighty but still highly flavorful broth has elegance as well as complexity with nutty/garlicy/mushroomy elements (umami) to boot. The chashu has roast beef-like qualities and is very lighted marinated. Unfortunately, the eggs here always seem to be served cold – a complete pet peeve of mine. Chef Sunny Yim told us that they make their
honjuku eggs daily and hold them in an ice bath until they’re ready to be added to the bowl. I have no problem with places that elect not make eggs to order. But to serve them with an initial chill is certainly less than optimal. And as much as you want to love a place for making their own noodles, they’re good, yes, but not truly special in any way. In the end, this bowl is largely about their sensational tonkotsu broth.
Clearly better than Santouka and High Five Ramen. Overall: A/A-
Best bowls of the day: Winner: Misoya’s Kome Miso Ramen
Runner-up: Oiistar’s Oiimen
…In spite of them both containing chashu and ground pork.
Last edited by
PIGMON on September 15th, 2014, 6:06 am, edited 3 times in total.