From yesterday's Eater:
"To properly explore Kerala’s rich culinary history, Thattu’s kitchen staff needs unique skills, like understanding Indian cooking techniques, and how to properly sautee foods and infuse them with ghee and spices. To retain and attract talent who possess those abilities, Kalathil knew the restaurant needed to offer competitive wages and full health care benefits, and so, Thattu will not rely on tips and won’t tack on a service charge. “We feel that it is the right time to take the next step and have a transparent all-inclusive price,” Kalathil says.
Administering a surcharge would have kept menu prices lower, but consumer pushback has been rising and they don’t want to worry about it. At its pop-ups, Thattu would charge around $12 for its Kerala fried chicken sandwich. They’re still working on exact pricing, but the sandwich will cost a little more, yet stay under $16: “Which I think is still a great price for a chicken sandwich,” Kalathil says.
Before deciding to become a no-tipping restaurant, Pak and Kalathil consulted with other restaurants and Raise High Road Restaurants, a national organization that promotes race, gender, and wage equity at restaurants. Lula Cafe, Split-Rail, and Wherewithall are among Chicago restaurants that don’t expect diners to pay gratuities.
Still, Kalathil is nervous about how customers will react. For one, Thattu’s prices will be higher versus the competition. Indian restaurants with giant menus or buffets often have items with interchangeable sauces that keep costs down. Restaurants with more curated and homestyle menus, like Thattu, will need to charge more. And a high price point will always be more of a problem for certain international restaurants. Indian food is often the subject of “cheap eats” features."
"In pursuit of joys untasted"
from Giuseppe Verdi's La Traviata