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Best Midscale/Upscale/"Creative" Mexican

Best Midscale/Upscale/"Creative" Mexican
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  • Best Midscale/Upscale/"Creative" Mexican

    Post #1 - June 15th, 2021, 1:21 pm
    Post #1 - June 15th, 2021, 1:21 pm Post #1 - June 15th, 2021, 1:21 pm
    I'm coming through Chicago and should be able to spend at least a day eating. It's been a while since I've explored Mexican food in the city. For those who don't know me since I haven't been active here in years, I am an experienced traveler in Mexico and have owned multiple Mexican restaurants. I've also consulted on several others, focusing on regional and midscale Mexican food. I've been helped on my path greatly by folks on LTH in the past, including RST for Mexican food (is he still around?). While my heart is with the food of the abuelitas, I have limited time so I'd like to catch up on what Chicago can offer that many places can't: fancy Mexican food. I say that with some tongue in cheek because a taqueria or mom and pop fonda doing something novel or world class would be great as well. I did a little searching here, but didn't find anything recent. I really haven't done upscale Mexican in Chicago for over a decade.

    I did read through some recommendations online, including:
    * Thrillist: https://www.thrillist.com/eat/chicago/b ... od-chicago
    * Eater: https://chicago.eater.com/maps/best-mex ... hicago-map
    * Timeout: https://www.timeout.com/chicago/restaur ... s-and-more
    * Gayot: https://www.gayot.com/restaurants/best- ... s_5ch.html

    Based on that, these places seemed like a good starting list that obviously will need to be whittled down, though I can do maybe 5 meals in a day if places have lunch. But please, any that should be on this list that aren't, or any that are, but shouldn't be, let me know:

    * Barrio
    * Chilam Balam
    * Mi Tocaya Antojería
    * Topolobampo (which I have been to, twice, I think, prior to 2010)
    * Mis Moles (I did go to Bahena's other restaurants back in the day)
    * Leña Brava
    * Sol de Mexico
    * Estrella Negra
    * Tzuco
    * Dos Urbana
    * Mesa Urbana

    (btw, I don't know how "open" Chicago is yet. My home town of Portland is still in transition mode despite high vaccination rates. Many of the top restaurants still don't have indoor dining there. However, I've been in Florida and Texas for the last two and a half months and restaurants are pretty much fully open. So some guidance there would be appreciated.)
    Unintentionally retired early by the pandemic, but without the golden parachute.
    Formerly Mi Mero Mole
    Formerly Zapapizza
    Formerly Kenny & Zuke's Delicatessen
    Artisan Jewish Deli at Home Cookbook
  • Post #2 - June 15th, 2021, 1:37 pm
    Post #2 - June 15th, 2021, 1:37 pm Post #2 - June 15th, 2021, 1:37 pm
    Mi Tocaya is my favorite Mexican outside of Mexico City. There are others that are very, very good but Mi Tocaya channels the inventiveness of modern Mexican chefs. Taqueria Chingon is a newcomer takeout spot which, from my perspective, has been suffering from its own success. It's tiny and makes some really terrific tacos but their online business has been pretty good so as a walk-in the waits can sometimes be frustratingly long and they can run out of items unexpectedly.
  • Post #3 - June 15th, 2021, 3:49 pm
    Post #3 - June 15th, 2021, 3:49 pm Post #3 - June 15th, 2021, 3:49 pm
    How fun. If multiple meals are a possibility, I would definitely second Leña Brava / Cruz Blanca, particularly for the tlayudas and whole fish prep. We've also continued to regularly pick up from La Lagartija Taqueria, and the sheer quality of the cooking impressed some pre-pandemic out-of-town guests on meals in person, while it appears more downscale on the surface (I really like eating in there though with the open kitchen and high ceiling bar).

    5 Rabanitos is still a sleeper, but a beautiful folk art room and looking across the park at the National Museum of Mexican Art. Less upscale, more and rewardingly of the people.

    If suburban architecture or change of pace also factor, I really think Amerikas, Maya del Sol, and New Rebozo in Oak Park were gaining steam. The owner makes New Rebozo unforgettable, the drink program and ceviches at Maya are stellar, and the seafood and barbacoa at Amerikas are special and more like dining in PV to me than anything else around.
  • Post #4 - June 15th, 2021, 4:26 pm
    Post #4 - June 15th, 2021, 4:26 pm Post #4 - June 15th, 2021, 4:26 pm
    extramsg wrote:* Dos Urbana

    I assume you mean Dos Urban Cantina. That's a good choice, and so are the other ones you mentioned. I always love the food of Carlos Gaytan, now at Tzuco and formerly at Mexique.

    You mention Topolobampo, which is in a dining room inside Frontera Grill. Frontera Grill itself is also a good choice (and if you sit at the bar, you can order off either menu). And Xoco next door is good if you're in the mood for lighter fare. All of these are still owned and run by Rick Bayless. So is Tortas Frontera; while its menu is more limited and, as the name implies, focused on sandwiches, it is THE place to get food at the big airport any time you're flying out. According to their website, the locations in Terminals 1 and 3 are open, the one in Terminal 5 is closed at the moment (hopefully opening again soon).

    Another good choice in the suburbs is Salsa 17 in Arlington Heights.
  • Post #5 - June 15th, 2021, 4:41 pm
    Post #5 - June 15th, 2021, 4:41 pm Post #5 - June 15th, 2021, 4:41 pm
    extramsg wrote:(btw, I don't know how "open" Chicago is yet. My home town of Portland is still in transition mode despite high vaccination rates. Many of the top restaurants still don't have indoor dining there. However, I've been in Florida and Texas for the last two and a half months and restaurants are pretty much fully open. So some guidance there would be appreciated.)

    Chicago has been opening up lately as pandemic restrictions have been lifted. I would say that most, perhaps not all but most, of the top restaurants are open for indoor dining or have announced dates when they will do so. Best bet, of course, is to check websites and/or call for information and reservations on any place you intend to visit.
  • Post #6 - June 15th, 2021, 5:20 pm
    Post #6 - June 15th, 2021, 5:20 pm Post #6 - June 15th, 2021, 5:20 pm
    This is probably more mid-scale than upscale, especially in atmosphere, but I like Xochimilco on the north side. The food is very good, a mix of more traditional (tacos, enchiladas) and more creative options. Desserts are excellent too. The owners of the restaurant are lovely people.....so nice. It is also BYOB.
  • Post #7 - June 15th, 2021, 8:14 pm
    Post #7 - June 15th, 2021, 8:14 pm Post #7 - June 15th, 2021, 8:14 pm
    Kie-Gol-Lanee could easily be a must-visit for Oaxacan food.
  • Post #8 - June 15th, 2021, 9:03 pm
    Post #8 - June 15th, 2021, 9:03 pm Post #8 - June 15th, 2021, 9:03 pm
    nr706 wrote:Kie-Gol-Lanee could easily be a must-visit for Oaxacan food.


    +1 on this—everything I’ve had here has been delicious and it’s on our list of 2-3 places that we make trips into Chicago for (from Valpo) because we love them so much. Their huitlacoche blue corn quesadilla is sooooooo good. Need to stop in soon!
    "Knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit; wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad." Miles Kington
  • Post #9 - June 16th, 2021, 5:03 am
    Post #9 - June 16th, 2021, 5:03 am Post #9 - June 16th, 2021, 5:03 am
    This would fall under the mom and pop place doing world class food but I would make a trip to Birreria Zaragoza. When they first opened they were the number one rated restaurant in Chicago on Yelp, just ahead of Alinea. Here's a link to the LTH discussion of Zaragoza ( started by Rene G for bonus points):

    viewtopic.php?f=14&t=20252

    I'm not sure what their current hours might be, but the internet says that they open at 9:00 am (8;00 on the weekend). I have enjoyed a bowl of their birria for breakfast on a number of occasions. It is reputed to be an excellent cure for a hangover. I would suggest a quesadilla and a plate of birria.
  • Post #10 - June 16th, 2021, 6:13 am
    Post #10 - June 16th, 2021, 6:13 am Post #10 - June 16th, 2021, 6:13 am
    If you were looking for 1 place that met your description, I Mi tocaya would be my recommendation.

    And one more recommendation that I haven't seen yet. The tripas tacos at la Chaparrita might be my single favorite Mexican dish in Chicago.
  • Post #11 - June 16th, 2021, 7:01 am
    Post #11 - June 16th, 2021, 7:01 am Post #11 - June 16th, 2021, 7:01 am
    I really enjoyed Mesa Urbana when they had their original site at the SW corner of Northbrook. The menu was small, and pricey compared to the mom & pop places just a few doors down, but very imaginative, very tasty, with a nice set of cocktails (mostly margarita variations, some mezcal etc.).
    What is patriotism, but the love of good things we ate in our childhood?
    -- Lin Yutang
  • Post #12 - June 16th, 2021, 8:38 am
    Post #12 - June 16th, 2021, 8:38 am Post #12 - June 16th, 2021, 8:38 am
    El Berrinches,is similar to 5 Rabanitos; also in Pilsen. Just south of 18th on Ashland (the old La Cebollita place).

    1807 S. Ashland Ave.
    Chicago, IL 60608
    (312) 492-8295

    HOURS:
    Mon: Closed,
    Tue - Thu: 10am-11pm,
    Fri-Sat: 10am-2am,
    Sun: 10am-11pm
  • Post #13 - June 16th, 2021, 9:24 am
    Post #13 - June 16th, 2021, 9:24 am Post #13 - June 16th, 2021, 9:24 am
    Thanks for all the advice and recommendations so far. Any that should probably be dropped from the list?
    Unintentionally retired early by the pandemic, but without the golden parachute.
    Formerly Mi Mero Mole
    Formerly Zapapizza
    Formerly Kenny & Zuke's Delicatessen
    Artisan Jewish Deli at Home Cookbook
  • Post #14 - June 16th, 2021, 11:51 am
    Post #14 - June 16th, 2021, 11:51 am Post #14 - June 16th, 2021, 11:51 am
    Not upscale in terms of service, but Taqueria Chingon is not to be missed. The duck carnitas taco alone is worth a visit.

    A warning—their online ordering often excludes the specials so just walk in at an off time and you'll have the full menu available.
  • Post #15 - June 17th, 2021, 8:51 am
    Post #15 - June 17th, 2021, 8:51 am Post #15 - June 17th, 2021, 8:51 am
    Dave148 just posted about another one that opened last week (click here).
  • Post #16 - June 17th, 2021, 8:56 am
    Post #16 - June 17th, 2021, 8:56 am Post #16 - June 17th, 2021, 8:56 am
    Another truly excellent one, that I'm surprised no one has mentioned yet, is Libertad in Skokie. LTH discussion is here.
  • Post #17 - June 17th, 2021, 1:07 pm
    Post #17 - June 17th, 2021, 1:07 pm Post #17 - June 17th, 2021, 1:07 pm
    While I really love Libertad, it's more of a pan-Latin than just Mexican. Not a bad thing, just less on-point to the inquiry.
  • Post #18 - June 17th, 2021, 2:17 pm
    Post #18 - June 17th, 2021, 2:17 pm Post #18 - June 17th, 2021, 2:17 pm
    spinynorman99 wrote:While I really love Libertad, it's more of a pan-Latin than just Mexican.

    I don't agree. I know they claim to be Nuevo Latin, but virtually all of their dishes are straight out of the creative Mexican playbook, with an occasional ingredient from other global influences. You don't see, say, Peruvian or Argentinian dishes on their menu, the way you do at, say, John Manion's restaurants (e.g. El Che).

    $.02
  • Post #19 - June 17th, 2021, 3:59 pm
    Post #19 - June 17th, 2021, 3:59 pm Post #19 - June 17th, 2021, 3:59 pm
    Mmmm...pretty pan-Latin on the menu. Lomo saltado, cordero, provoleta, caipirinha. You could say that the lines are blurred these days, but when I think of creative Mexican, I take that more literally as classically-Mexican dishes that are creatively updated.
  • Post #20 - June 18th, 2021, 10:44 am
    Post #20 - June 18th, 2021, 10:44 am Post #20 - June 18th, 2021, 10:44 am
    Does anyone know if Mi Tocaya has bar seating or anything for single diners? On Resy they list 2 people as min res and no reservations available for today.
    Unintentionally retired early by the pandemic, but without the golden parachute.
    Formerly Mi Mero Mole
    Formerly Zapapizza
    Formerly Kenny & Zuke's Delicatessen
    Artisan Jewish Deli at Home Cookbook
  • Post #21 - June 18th, 2021, 10:45 am
    Post #21 - June 18th, 2021, 10:45 am Post #21 - June 18th, 2021, 10:45 am
    (And yes I tried calling but doesn't appear they answer the phone.)
    Unintentionally retired early by the pandemic, but without the golden parachute.
    Formerly Mi Mero Mole
    Formerly Zapapizza
    Formerly Kenny & Zuke's Delicatessen
    Artisan Jewish Deli at Home Cookbook
  • Post #22 - June 18th, 2021, 11:24 am
    Post #22 - June 18th, 2021, 11:24 am Post #22 - June 18th, 2021, 11:24 am
    I believe there is a very small bar, but I can't remember if there is seating and if people eat there.

    If you want company/ordering power/meet a table minimum, I'll bet it wouldn't be hard to recruit another eating partner. I'm happy to meet up and live a block away if that's something you want to do.
  • Post #23 - June 18th, 2021, 11:30 am
    Post #23 - June 18th, 2021, 11:30 am Post #23 - June 18th, 2021, 11:30 am
    extramsg wrote:Does anyone know if Mi Tocaya has bar seating or anything for single diners? On Resy they list 2 people as min res and no reservations available for today.


    In the words of Yogi Berra, "nobody goes there anymore, it's too crowded." Was not clear from your post that you were looking for restaurants for this week. They tend to book up well in advance. You can try to walk in (the earlier, the better), but no guarantees.
  • Post #24 - June 18th, 2021, 11:45 am
    Post #24 - June 18th, 2021, 11:45 am Post #24 - June 18th, 2021, 11:45 am
    Yeah, I've been living out of hotels for basically three months and haven't been sure of where I would be when. So advanced reservations weren't really a possibility. I have a res for tzuco tonight at 8pm. Was hoping to get Mi Tocaya since that seemed to be the overwhelming fav. Chikitana has openings but reviews sound like it's having lots of early jitters. Haven't had too much time to check other places yet. I may come back through in just over a week depending on how I drive back to Oregon. Was hoping there would be lunch options but probably still too early in Chicago after pandemic.
    Unintentionally retired early by the pandemic, but without the golden parachute.
    Formerly Mi Mero Mole
    Formerly Zapapizza
    Formerly Kenny & Zuke's Delicatessen
    Artisan Jewish Deli at Home Cookbook
  • Post #25 - June 18th, 2021, 12:00 pm
    Post #25 - June 18th, 2021, 12:00 pm Post #25 - June 18th, 2021, 12:00 pm
    Yup, also missed that you were looking for something today. Good look and buen provecho!
  • Post #26 - June 18th, 2021, 12:31 pm
    Post #26 - June 18th, 2021, 12:31 pm Post #26 - June 18th, 2021, 12:31 pm
    They also do carryout and delivery. They are in our regular delivery rotation and are as good as ever.
  • Post #27 - June 18th, 2021, 1:17 pm
    Post #27 - June 18th, 2021, 1:17 pm Post #27 - June 18th, 2021, 1:17 pm
    Darren72 wrote:They also do carryout and delivery. They are in our regular delivery rotation and are as good as ever.

    They = ?
    Hold my beer . . .

    Low & Slow
  • Post #28 - June 18th, 2021, 1:56 pm
    Post #28 - June 18th, 2021, 1:56 pm Post #28 - June 18th, 2021, 1:56 pm
    Mi Tocaya
  • Post #29 - June 18th, 2021, 5:29 pm
    Post #29 - June 18th, 2021, 5:29 pm Post #29 - June 18th, 2021, 5:29 pm
    Darren72 wrote:Mi Tocaya


    I'm sure it's tasty, but part of this is for professional purposes which includes seeing their platings. Next time.
    Unintentionally retired early by the pandemic, but without the golden parachute.
    Formerly Mi Mero Mole
    Formerly Zapapizza
    Formerly Kenny & Zuke's Delicatessen
    Artisan Jewish Deli at Home Cookbook
  • Post #30 - June 18th, 2021, 5:37 pm
    Post #30 - June 18th, 2021, 5:37 pm Post #30 - June 18th, 2021, 5:37 pm
    Dinner one down. Ended up at Chikitana, which also gave me an excuse to pick up salumi and cheese from Publican.

    Got the aguachile, elotes, tuétano, and horchata ice cream. Maybe should have gotten the duck mole but I didn't want to overdo it on the first dinner.

    I thought it was pretty solid. Any complaints would mostly be quibbles. Service was solid though not especially polished, to be expected at a new joint, especially with the current staffing shortages.

    I was expecting more avant garde dishes from what I read about it. Really the dishes were pretty straight forward but with big plates and microgreens. Nothing wrong with that. I was happy that they didn't dumb down the aguachile. The shrimp was cured not cooked, though maybe not as raw as normal, and the salsa had a pretty good kick to it, more than the average diner will want, I suspect.

    EDIT: Put up photos on Twitter:

    https://twitter.com/extramsg/status/1411103785812856833
    Last edited by extramsg on July 2nd, 2021, 5:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
    Unintentionally retired early by the pandemic, but without the golden parachute.
    Formerly Mi Mero Mole
    Formerly Zapapizza
    Formerly Kenny & Zuke's Delicatessen
    Artisan Jewish Deli at Home Cookbook

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