fropones wrote:

PIGMON wrote:Chef Mickey Neely at Scofflaw has constructed what I would call a near perfect green chicken variant of carne en su jugo. His base broth is no half-hearted effort having a sensational silky chicken lusciousness to it and is also enhanced with just the right amount of tomatillo. He, thankfully, also takes time to ultra-crisp ideally sized bacon shards. The soup is topped with pieces of high-grade grilled chicken and is not disbursed throughout the soup. By doing this, he's clearly displaying his confidence in the base broth, unlike most traditional chopped beef versions which often times have lost their textural integrity. And, not surprisingly, Mickey gracefully lets his patrons add their own ratio of garnishes (radish, avocado, onion, and cilantro). I think he accidently overlooked the chile de arbol but I'm betting by the next time I have another bowl (next week), it'll be included.
My only complaint is that the ratio of bean-to-broth doesn't do justice to his stellar soup. More broth, less bean, I say!

I'm not sure how long Scofflaw's planning on having this on their present menu. But if you like CESJ, this one is special and worth seeking out...even if you're a teetotaler.

Awesome, thanks. Need to make it in soon for some of this.

Unlike Pigmon, I'm no expert but yeah, it definitely was awesome. A really great bowl -- and one of the best things I've eaten this year.

=R=

A few things have changed within the Chicago CESJ landscape over the last several years. First and foremost being that Taqueria el Tapatio #2 at 4114 W. North Ave, with its infamous grilled baloney substituted for bacon, has sadly closed. But I bet not one LTHer ever bothered to try this place out since my initial post…and justifiably so! A few decent places I enjoyed back in February 2006 have since closed including Amancer Tapatio in Joliet and Taco Mex at 10658 S. Torrence Ave on the Southeast Side. Not surprisingly, many of the worst spots I tried then have since vanished too.

Over the last few months, I’ve made a concerted effort to revisit several places which I’ve found over the years to be making good-to-great bowls of CESJ. I’ve also added a few previously unmentioned and/or noteworthy places to check out such as Los Corrales (though not for the CESJ) as well. Most bowls described below were eaten sans beans, since I’ve recently taken to the rigors of a pseudo-version of the Paleo Diet (no grains, rice, beans, sugar, blah, blah, blah). When I told the waiter at Taqueria Tio Luis not to include beans, his response to me was “Well, that’s not real CESJ then!” True enough. I would agree that not including the beans definitely diminishes the overall enjoyment of the dish. But I also think that the question of a great bowl is usually determined by the quality of the broth, its salt level, the tastiness of the meat, and the overall construction and proportion of the bowl - not by the pintos.

Included below are some of the places that I’ve enjoyed over the years as well as some newer or previously unmentioned places that might be worth checking out.

El Taco Veloz




The slightly cloudy broth is a tad thin here but is luckily not the usual salt bomb often found in lesser versions. Although it appears to be a natural broth, a little hint of buillion/seasoning salt is apparent. The meat is rarely griddled/carmelized and is usually accompanied with scant amounts of (crispy) bacon. Nominal amounts of garnish (radish, minced onion, and avocado) are always pre-added. The bowls are often times haphazardly constructed and are aesthetically a turnoff.

There’s nothing seriously wrong with the CESJ at El Taco Veloz but I don’t think it has the ability to create many new enthusiasts. If this is your only CESJ experience due to convenience (located in Ukie Village), expand your horizons. Although this is a respectable effort, you’d be wise to take the extra step and head over to the South Side for some significantly better renditions. Your extra efforts will definitely pay off.

Note: Sub-par salsas (tomatillo/some sort of watery red) and marginal ”escabeche” (tableside vinegar’d veggies such as carrots, cauliflower, whole jalapenos, and whole heads of garlic), industrial tortillas & chips.

Taqueria Tayahua




The base broth here is not overly salty but is a bit one-dimensional and has an unappealing brown color to it. This consomme has a very natural profile with little evidence of bouillion/artificial meat seasonings and is chock full of steak, bacon, and beans. The steamed/lightly grilled steak doesn’t reinforce the soup much, if at all. The last time I ate here, the bacon was completely limp and was a liability to the overall soup. The soup is served with unusual elongated strips of onion but you can also add chopped onion as a garnish. The garnishes (radish, chile de arbol, cilantro, chopped onion, avocado, and lime) are all happily served separately. Serving the garnishes on the side can elevate a just fine bowl into something special. I’m surprised many more places don’t take this extra step. But then again, it probably costs them a few cents more to do so.

A decent bowl when gussied up with all the additives. There’s nothing particularly subtle about it - a very rugged rendition and a good value at $7.50 for a large bowl.

Even with its shortcomings, Tayahua’s CESJ is still very much worth trying.

Note: Homemade tortillas & chips are made here. I was surprised to see a women making the tortillas mid-week. Unfortunately, they came to the table soggy from idly sitting on the counter too long. Salsas are nicely spiced and with good depth.

Taqueria Los Corrales

Artificial seasonings(dried spices and bouillon) here will knock you over the head from the opening bite! I suspect that a homemade natural beef stock is never prepared here. Although the bacon is ultra-crisped, it doesn't assist the broth out whatsoever. The bland steak doesn't help the cause either. Condiments include the usual radish, chile de arbol, chopped onion, lime, avocado, and jalapenos.

Although they are quite proud of their CESJ, this is a poor rendition. It makes sense, though, since the owner is from the Northern State of Durango which is not known at all as a CESJ-making region. The owner’s husband is from Zacatecas, though, and I believe he was the one that gave them the idea to start carrying the dish for the Jaliscan/Central Mexican clientele.

The best thing here is the costillas de res. Worth checking out.

Taqueria Los Gallos #1, #2, & #3







Unfortunately, Los Gallos #1 and #3, unlike the owner’s home base restaurant, #2, at 4252 S. Archer Ave. don't offer their amazing chile oil. All Los Gallos locations these days are serving up sub-sized bowls for $9: total annoying and a borderline ripoff. However, their first-rate, steely-clean beef consomme will make you pardon the bowl’s other shortcomings such as the ultra-sparse pre-added condiments (radish, avocado, onion, cilantro).

In spite of the small bowls and always-disappointing pre-added condiment assembly, Los Gallos still clearly makes what I think is the best example of carne en su jugo in Chicago. Just be sure, though, to go to Los Gallos #2. Their chile oil condiment is a crowd pleaser.

Note: This is some of the best tableside escabeche around.

Warning: Los Gallos #2 can be very crowded on weekend mornings, serving menudo and CESJ to families and/or customers looking for their traditional Mexican morning-after hangover relief. Dr. Los Gallos #2 clearly has a lot of loyal patients.

Memo’s Taco Mex (Highland, Indiana)




This is one of the only green (tomatillo) versions to be found anywhere around Chicago today. As far as I know, the only other green version to be found is in the suburbs at El Gallo de Oro (Des Plaines) – thanks for the lead, jesteinf. Oscar’s, Amancer Tapatio (Joliet), Taco Mex, and Taqueria Sanchez Brothers on 47th St. all used to make greens but I believe that all have since closed. (I noted in my initial post that El Taco Veloz makes a green version but that was an oversight. Apologies.)

Memo’s CESJ recipe seems to be a very close to the one formerly prepared at Taco Mex (Torrence Ave.) but with a bit spice. A complete over usage of tomatillo made the soup unpleasantly viscous. The meat was completely steamed and mealy. Maybe the worst meat in a CESJ I've ever had anywhere, anytime. No beefiness to the broth whatsoever. Surprisingly, this green broth, although clearly on the salty side, had a faintly pleasant one-dimensional tomatillo and lime element to it. The bacon was served flabby and bordered on being undercooked. The loads of garnishes supplied on the side included radish, chile de arbol, avocado, lime, cilantro, raw onion, and cebollitas (already added) surprisingly did wonders to help round out this bowl…at least to a certain degree.

In spite of its serious flaws (bad steamed meat, flaccid bacon, and a gross over-usage of tomatillo), a marginally enjoyable version - maybe because greens are such a rarity. Our waitress told us that the broth is derived strictly from tomatillo and other aromatic vegetables. This is a completely different creature than your usual bowl of CESJ.

Tio Luis Tacos




A very beefy, super-dark broth. Beautifully carmelized chopped carne asada which is noticeably more flavorful (and yet a tad chewy) than most places. A decent bowl overall but a bit one-dimensional. It slowly became a salt bomb along the way - again most likely due to the large amounts of nicely crisped bacon used. Scant amounts of condiments are pre-added (usually only about 3-4 radish slices are added).

Not in the forefront of great CESJs and being so close to Los Gallos #2, it’s always tough for me to muster up the desire to make the sacrifice.

The real highlight here, however, isn’t the CESJ but their caldo de res. Outstanding natural clear broth coupled with wonderfully tasty beef short ribs and served with perfectly cooked vegetables. This is one of the better Mexican soups I know of in Chicago. Nothing flashy but itches that scratch when you’re looking to have a truly home-style soup.

Good salsas, too.

Birrieria De La Torre




This is a beautiful, natural tasting broth albeit a tad salty. De La Torre’s CESJ contains a ungrilled, shaved style beef, not unlike meat typically found in an Italian beef. As far as I know, they are the only place in town serving it this way. Crispy bacon. Sparse radish, cilantro (no avocado) added.

I chatted at length with the daughter of the owner who told me that the family originates, not surprisingly, from Guadalajara, Jalisco. She also said that the shaved beef style found at Birrieria De La Torre is common in Jalisco in many of the so-called “better places” there and that a lot of CESJ lovers in Guadalajara look at those using chopped steak as inferior since it’s a cheaper cut of meat. Can anybody with Jaliscan CESJ-eating experience verify this--(Da Beef)?
The super-milkiness of the soup she said comes directly from their daily homemade base broth – making it one of the more unique styles of CESJ in town. I’ve always been incorrectly under the impression that the creaminess came solely from the beans. But after she brought me into the kitchen to sample the base broth, it was indeed cloudy even in its virgin form - and very tasty on its own as well. She said that her mother makes the soup daily and is extremely proud of the recipe, one she’s been improving on for many years.

My personal favorite CESJ in Chicago is Los Gallos #2. However, I believe that Birrieria De La Torre is its only real competition in Chicago. It would make total sense to me that many people would prefer this rendition with its stellar rich base broth and thinly sliced meat to Los Gallos and their steely-clean broth style. Any way you slice it, this is certainly one of the two best bowls of CESJ in Chicago.

El Barzon




A massive bowl. Almost double the size of the norm ($7.50 to boot). A super-clean natural broth. The chef told me that they use celery, pepper, lime, and bay leaf only to make an all-vegetable base broth and that all its beefiness comes completely from the pre-seasoned asada. Although it has a slight bouillon profile from seasoning used on the meat, it wasn’t remotely overwhelming and, consequently, not overly salty either. This bowl is loaded with beautifully carmelized/charred tasty chopped steak. Sparse amounts of ultra-crispy bacon kept the saltiness to a manageable level. Unfortunately, all condiments (radish, avocado, onion, cilantro) are pre-served in the bowl except the chile de arbol.

El Barzon is not in the league of Taqueria Los Gallos or Birrieria De La Torre due to their elemental base stock. But it’s still a very good rendition and well worth trying.

Carniceria 5 Hermanos (Cicero)




This is a lovely, homemade natural broth (slightly cloudy). The steak is well-griddled and has good proportions of crispy bacon. The condiments (radish, white onion, and avocado) are sparsely added. Saltiness is kept under control. Overall, a well-balanced bowl.

If you're looking to find one of the better CESJ's coupled with a cool, well-worn back-of-store taqueria experience, check out Carniceria 5 Hermanos in Cicero. Although this place makes no mention of the CESJ anywhere in its signage, the soup itself is well worth the trip to Cicero. Up front is their enticing carniceria which I believe is making their own morcilla.

Los Tres Gallos (Melrose Park)




The broth is a bit thinner than it used to be but is still decent. A heavy black pepper element is evident. The chopped steak though well-griddled is unpleasantly chewy and certainly low-grade and flavorless. Almost undetectable amounts of ultra-crispy bacon with a small amount of pintos as well. Avocado and radish are already put in soup while onion, cilantro, chile de arbol are served on the side. The chef told me he makes his own bone stock and appeared to be quite proud of it.

Los Tres Gallos can still be quite respectable but, overall, is no longer at the top of its game. I have been here at least a half a dozen times over the last several years and have had varying degrees of success. At this point, I’d say if it isn’t a trek for you to get there, check it out. Otherwise...

*

You probably noticed that some decent-to-good examples of CESJ have the potential to be on the saltier side. If you’re the least bit salt sensitive, the easiest way to remedy this common malaise is to ask for less bacon or none at all. This simple request could possibly elevate a decent bowl into something special.


(Graphics by trixie-pea)

El Taco Veloz
1745 W. Chicago Ave.
(312) 738-0363

Taqueria Tayahua
2411 S. Western Ave.
(773) 247-3183

Taqueria Los Corrales
2881 W. Cermak Road
(773) 847-6998

Taqueria Los Gallos
Los Gallos #1
4211 West 26th Street
(773) 762-7452

Los Gallos #2
4252 S. Archer Ave.
(773) 254-2081

Los Gallos #3
6222 S. Archer Ave.
(773) 585-8835

El Barzon
3002 S. Pulaski Rd.
(773) 277-4767

Memo”s Taco Mex
2128 45th St.
Highland, Indiana
(219) 934-7300

Tio Luis Tacos
3856 S. Archer Ave.
(773) 843-0098

Birrieria De La Torre
6724 S. Pulaski Rd.
(773) 767-6075

Carniceria 5 Hermanos
5722 West 16th St.
Cicero
(708) 780-1000

Los Tres Gallos
112 N. 19th Ave (Broadway)
Melrose Park
(708) 344-5413

Thanks, Pigmon for the update. Looks like Los Gallos are the shit. Interesting story about El Taco Veloz. When it first opened in the early 90's, I was one of their first customers. Whenever I ordered Carne en Su Jugo, they would put large chunks of heart and kidneys in my bowl. Heart I like, but ever since a bad childhood experience in England, I try to avoid kidneys at all cost. I later found out from a Mexican friend that the kidneys are reserved for guests of honor, and showed that they really liked me. I hope I didn't insult them by not finishing my bowl of guts and such. I noticed what looked like kidneys in your picture above. Interestingly, when they first opened, they didn't pre-construct the add-ins. Perhaps thay started doing this as a concession to neighborhood newbies that didn't understand what to do. I think playing with the add-ins is one of the essential rituals of the dish.

Great update, PIGMON. Definitely not surprising that a lot of the inferior places have closed. I will certainly need to make my way to los gallos 2 and de la torre pretty soon.

PIGMON wrote:Birrieria De La Torre



This is a beautiful, natural tasting broth albeit a tad salty. De La Torre’s CESJ contains a ungrilled, shaved style beef, not unlike meat typically found in an Italian beef. As far as I know, they are the only place in town serving it this way. Crispy bacon. Sparse radish, cilantro (no avocado) added.

I chatted at length with the daughter of the owner who told me that the family originates, not surprisingly, from Guadalajara, Jalisco. She also said that the shaved beef style found at Birrieria De La Torre is common in Jalisco in many of the so-called “better places” there and that a lot of CESJ lovers in Guadalajara look at those using chopped steak as inferior since it’s a cheaper cut of meat. Can anybody with Jaliscan CESJ-eating experience verify this--(Da Beef)?
The super-milkiness of the soup she said comes directly from their daily homemade base broth – making it one of the more unique styles of CESJ in town.

Another excellent addition to one of the great foods I was lucky enough to be introduced to thru LTH. Yes the way you describe the thinly shaved beef, almost like it is at some Pho places is how it was served in Mexico. At first I was actually a little turned off since I'm used to the chopped steak but this was a fantastic bowl. I wouldn't be surprised if the way she told you how they make the broth at De La Torre is similar to how they do it there.


Las Originales Carnes en su Jugo desde 1972

Also I've been waiting for winter hoping I remember to check out this Jaliscan Taqueria called Ochoa.It's on 47th street and seems to be a popular locals stop for cabeza tacos. They serve CESJ on the weekends. At least as of my last visit which was a couple years ago. Not surprisingly I could really use a bowl of this stuff right about now. Happy New Year all.


Located on the 4100 block of 47th Street

I had a pretty top notch bowl of CESJ this past weekend in Aurora. Taqueria El Brasero is just off the highway the exit after the Outlet Mall (if coming from city). It's a sit-down spot that sits in a strip mall so you might not think twice about it but I would stop in if in the mood for some meat in it's own juice.


Notice the nice clear broth

I dont know if this place reaches Los Gallos' level when it's on but it they serve a very good bowl with some extra crisp bacon sitting in a slightly rich, nicely flavored broth. Included were all the usual's with exception of the dried chile peppers which I just now remembered weren't there, otherwise I would of asked for some. The steak had some chewy fatty pieces but for the most part was finely chopped and cooked crisp which I like. This might be a weekend only offering so call ahead if interested.


Wayne and Garth never had eating options this good...

Taqueria El Brasero
944 N Farnsworth Ave
Aurora, IL 60505
(630) 898-7310

I posted several years ago that a restaurant in Blue Island that we frequent, Restorante Tenochtitlan, has this dish on its menu. Last night the family decided to go for dinner and I realized it was time to try it. As I've never had it anywhere else, I can't say how it compares to other versions. Both my husband and I ordered this and thought it was delicious and worth ordering again and again.

The bowl of brown broth was full of meat, onions, beans and bacon. On the side were fresh lime quarters, finely chopped jalepenos, chopped onions and chopped fresh cilantro so that we could garnish to our own taste. I will say that if I were eating that at home, I would have picked the bowl up and licked it clean. Instead I restrained myself and ate as much as I could.

Pigmon, I hope you will come out south and try this version.

Suzy

Restorante Tenochtitlan
12947 Western Avenue
Blue Island, IL
(708) 293-1505
http://www.tenochtitlanrestaurant.com/

Pigmon, I hope you will come out south and try this version.

Suzy

Restorante Tenochtitlan
12947 Western Avenue
Blue Island, IL
(708) 293-1505
http://www.tenochtitlanrestaurant.com/

Thanks for the heads-up, Suzy. After reading your post, I decided to head down to Blue Island for a bowl of CESJ yesterday.

Let me put it as delicately as I can - I see a lot of upside in your CESJ future!

In a nutshell, this was a sub-par version in every way. The broth had no beefiness to it whatsoever (in fact, little of any flavor) with limp, leathery meat and no/sparse amounts of beans or bacon. I hate to say it but this was the single most unappetizing bowls of CESJ I’ve ever laid my eyes on.

Oh, well!

PIGMON wrote:I hate to say it but this was the single most unappetizing bowls of CESJ I’ve ever laid my eyes on.

At least it looks like a nice sized portion.

Live and learn...

Suzy

G Wiv wrote:

PIGMON wrote:I hate to say it but this was the single most unappetizing bowls of CESJ I’ve ever laid my eyes on.

At least it looks like a nice sized portion.

Nice one, Gary.

Yes, Chicago may have suffered a great loss a few years back with the closing of Taqueria El Tapatio #2 (4114 W. North Ave.) and its grilled baloney CESJ. But we just might have a worthy replacement.

Dona Torta’s healthy-sized version of CESJ has an abnormally tart, sourness to it and is coupled with a curious sweetness not detected in any other version I’ve ever tried before. When I asked our waitress where the sweetness was derived from, she replied “Coca Cola”.

This was a bi-polar bowl of CESJ– having some great elements such as its pleasant sourness, the consistency of the broth, grilled cebollitas, as well as being a monster of a bowl in size. Unfortunately, the downside was its gassy tasting meat and the awkward sweetness derived from the infusion of Coke.

Strangely, I sorta liked it and just might be worth a taste if in the neighborhood.


Dona Torta (I believe this restaurant relocated to Little Village from Lakeview)
3331 West 26th Street
Chicago, IL
(773) 257-0000

I do not regard "gassy tasting meat" and "awkward sweetness" as downsides. Indeed, they evoke my dating experiences from years past.

But, really, I detect the scent of a scholarly paper mouldering away here somewhere, with the potential for an Ig Nobel Prize down the road.

My wife and I had lunch at Los Gallos #2 today and I heartily agree that the carne en su jugo is a revelation - beefy and garlicky (?) broth, silky carne asada strips, crunch radish, beans and avocado (with some chile oil mixed in) all meld together wonderfully. This was the best soup that I've had in recent memory.

The tacos al pastor are the best I've ever had and the gardinera-like escabeche with carrot, cauliflower, whole garlic heads and celery is tasty.

My wife was a little sceptical initially, but she really enjoyed her meal of a ceviche tostada and a taco al pastor.

Great tacos al pastor at Los Gallos #2? Have I been missing out this whole time? Anyone else out there to corroborate?

After years of reading about this magical soup, my wife and I finally ventured out to Los Gallos #2 yesterday for lunch. We're both sold! What an amazing bowl of soup, and we're huge fans of Mexican soups. The broth was full of flavor, there was a nice mix of textures with the crisp radish & bacon, soft beans and beef, creamy avocado. Freshness from the herbs. A squeeze of lime for some brightness and the chili sauce/oil definitely added to the flavor and gave a little kick to the bowl.

Great tacos al pastor at Los Gallos #2?
Having seen this noted by ld111134, I did order one al pastor to try it out. Was a decent taco that I'd eat again, but not on the level of Tierra Caliente or Rubi's (where I'm headed to momentarily)

WHY did I wait so long to get to Los Gallos #2?!?

Like La Chaparrita, the attention to detail is so evident and so appreciated. Delicious and abundant, too. It's like they filled the bowl with carne asada, beans, and bacon, and then poured the broth into what little space was left in between.

I'm not sure what I can add beyond agreement that this is killer stuff.

My inaugural trip to Los Gallos #2 and there is no over-selling here. SO delicious. Even better for lunch today. Also had a crispy tripas taco and it wasn't Chaparitta but it was more than respectable. Only sad that I didn't throw a few of the enormous pickled carrots into my soup container. They were phenomenal. Can't wait to return.

Two marginal outings in a row at Los Gallos #2 doesn't necessarily warrant a credible downhill alert. However, being inconveniently located for many LTHers in Brighton Park, I felt it was worth being an alarmist to save some people the long drive down there.

I've been to Los Gallos #2 numerous times over the years and finishing a bowl of CESJ there has never been even remotely a problem for me...until my last try. Their base beef broth now is insipid, lacking in any sort of depth and having no vibrancy to it whatsoever. Almost as bad, the coarsley chopped beef is now being finely minced, dissapating uneventfully into the soup.

After my second less-than-optimum bowl there a few weeks ago, I asked the owners if they by chance they had gotten a new chef and they, unfortunately, confirmed my speculation.

At this point, I don't know of any truly great bowls of CESJ that exist anywhere around Chicago. Most (all?) of the great ones I've enjoyed over the years have turned south. I should probably use this as an excuse to make time this winter to seek out Chicago's next CESJ king.

In general, I'm a big fan of Rick Bayless and what he's done over the years in tuning on so many people nationally to the delights of regional Mexican cuisine.

However, I would feel guilty in not relaying my true feelings about the $20 CESJ now being served at his new Wicker Park location.

This ridiculously priced, appetizer-sized bowl of $20 CESJ was served cold to the touch and was a complete salt bomb. The consistency of the "broth" resembled more of a side of baked beans (viscous slurry) than a soup traditionally found.

Unfortunately, the soup was so inedible that I wasn’t even able to get to the point of trying the nice looking unchopped steak laid on top before I had to abort the mission. I’m betting, though, that that would have been the best thing about this dish. It just had to have been.

I don't mind in the least the Bayless took some liberties with the traditional CESJ recipe. But this creation flat out does a huge disservice to this classic Jaliscan dish, especially for those that may have never tried it before.

cold and salty…sounds brutal

Still nice to see this thread bumped. I'm a bit too busy this weekend but I think CesJ just got penciled in for next weekend's project.

Has anyone ever found this dish at a place north or northwest of the city? In company with Cathy2, I visited the #1 place on PIGMON's awesome chart, but it is a long way from Arlington Heights -- as are all the others. Hoping there is at least a possibility of finding it somewhere closer.

Cynthia,
I've had it a couple times Mi Ristaurante at Wolf and Kensington, the northeast corner of Mount Prospect (same center as Photo's). I haven't had it anywhere else, so I can't compare, but it's quite enjoyable.

Cynthia wrote:Has anyone ever found this dish at a place north or northwest of the city? In company with Cathy2, I visited the #1 place on PIGMON's awesome chart, but it is a long way from Arlington Heights -- as are all the others. Hoping there is at least a possibility of finding it somewhere closer.

See posts #74 through #78 for information on El Gallo de Oro in Des Plaines. Their carne en su jugo isn't one of the very best bowls, but you can do a lot worse.

In post #76 Rene G wrote:





Taqueria El Gallo de Oro
1186 Lee St
Des Plaines IL
847-827-6679

Thanks. Doesn't look quite as inviting as some, but still looks might tasty. And only 1/2 an hour away. Good news.

This thread prompted me to enjoy my very first bowl of CESJ ever. I had popped in to a storefront taqueria, Chavas, on Grand Avenue just east of Western in West Town, on the way to work, and on the front counter was a display bowl of CESJ. All thoughts of steak a la Mexicana or tacos with carne asada left me, as I remembered drooling over Pigmon's photos here on LTH Forum.

I enjoyed it, I really did, though as this was my first encounter with the dish, my sense of bad to good to great should not be seriously considered as any kind of guide. I can describe what I got, however: a piping hot beefy, earthy, clear-brown stock, not too salty, some slight oil-sheen on the surface, with a large amount of tender cooked brown beans, small pieces/shreds of somewhat depleted stewed-out beef and some nice pieces of bacon broken into one and two inch pieces (not crumbled). On a side plate I got two lime halves for squeezing, a mound of chopped white onion, a big mound of cilantro, a radish or two thinly sliced and three large dried hot peppers. A small container of hot flour tortillas accompanied the soup, after a basket of chips and salsa.

My guess is that the broth was either made there from bones--I seriously doubt a tiny taqueria would have a cow's head stewing in the back--or they used a low-salt boullion or prepared broth. I'm guessing the large pieces of bacon aren't traditional, but I enjoyed digging through the beans and beef to find a prize of a crisp spoon-size piece of bacon rasher.

I was struck by the similarity of this dish to Vietnamese pho: both beef broth based soups, where you drop in various vegetables and condiments a little at a time, in order to not cool the soup too rapidly.

Now I want to try out the places that are listed here as top notch. You may have hooked me.

Note: Chavas is an unremarkable joint of a type common all over the city, I think. It's best attributes are its 24-hour opening, its location in an area fairly devoid of anything else, low prices (my CESJ was less than ten bucks) and generally good simple food. They have a separate vegetarian menu which may interest some others. The room on the other hand, is small and cramped with no tables, only a narrow chest-high counter and high stools arranged along three walls. It's a better place for carry out than dine in as far as comfort is concerned.

Chavas Tacos
2333 W Grand
Chicago 60612
(312) 226-1129
Open 24/7

This may be heresy, but an excellent carne en su jugo is served at The Silver Palm Restaurant on Milwaukee Avenue (at Ogden and Chicago Avenues). The broth is a deep and rich umami bomb, the beans are perfectly cooked with just the right "snap", the bacon is spot-on and not over- or under-cooked, the vegetables and aromatics provide good contrast and the beef is terrific.

Most unorthodox, the soup was quite dense.

Rather than the traditional avocado and raw onion, the soup is garnished with tortilla strips with sour cream on the side.

Traditional? Perhaps not. Delicious? Most definitely. This was the perfect soup for the first snowfall of this winter.

The Silver Palm Restaurant
768 N. Milwaukee
Chicago, IL 60642
Phone: 312-666-9322

When I first moved to Chicagoland, this thread was reasonably up-to-date and offered me an introduction to carne en su jugo, which I have grown to really enjoy. Due to its reasonable proximity to Oak Park (and other errands I have), Los Tres Gallos in Melrose Park was my go-to, with good soup and tacos served by an exceptionally nice family. Sadly, they seem to be closed, at least temporarily, if Google is to be believed. The doors and windows are papered over but there is some work happening.

I do hope they return, but in the meantime, where can I get my CESJ fix? Los Gallos is, I am sure, a destination option, but isn't really as convenient to me. Is there any place in Melrose Park, or the west side of Chicago? Or Berwyn / Cicero?

Thanks!

In the interest of self-help, I did make the drive to Los Gallos #1 this weekend. Scratched the itch, but I probably prefer Los Tres Gallos. This bowl was a light broth, not as rich as LTG, but also less salty. Beans, steak, bacon that had been fairly fully cooked I'd guess (more rendered, less fatty), along with radishes, an under-ripe avocado half and a couple of grilled onion bulbs that could have used a bit more cooking. No side garnishes, and a large stack of tortillas that were a bit cold. All-in, fine, but I am not sure I'd have as much of an obsession with CESJ from this. For the rest of the food, a ceviche tostada got very good reviews, steak and el pastor tacos were deemed average but acceptable. Nice folks.

Understanding it was considered better, I might try Los Gallos #2 sometime if I'm out that way. Otherwise, still on the hunt and hoping for a Los Tres Gallos miracle.

The weather has put me back on this quest. My latest is Taqueria La Guadalupana on Cermak. I really liked their version, which was more meat than beans or bacon, a little salty, but a rich broth. Given the convenience to me, I suspect I will be a regular here. Very nice people, too.

5517 Cermak Rd
Cicero, IL 60804
(708) 222-1935