As someone who apparently only goes to Cleveland for extremely rare events - the eclipse brought me back for the first time since the far more rare Cubs World Series win in 2016 - I was thrilled to have meals at two places that have opened since my last visit that blew me away. As long as
Larder and
Cordelia remain in business, I can't imagine missing either one on every future trip to Cleveland.
Larder, which opened in 2018, is is a deli that puts Chicago to absolute shame. I went on Saturday. If they'd been open on Sunday and Monday, I would have gone back twice. Lots of good background info in
this Eater article. While the place definitely has Jewish deli vibes, it's worth noting that the no pork plan referenced in the article has been abandoned to the point that there were pig heads hanging in the cooler in the middle of the restaurant, presumably for the housemade guanciale among other things.
Chartuterie isn't the only food preservation technique employed. There are jars of various fermenting foods all over the place.
The koji-cured pastrami seems to be the item they're best known for and one bite in it's easy to see why. This is world class pastrami. I can't say I would have been able to pick out koji, but this was was some supremely flavorful and uber tender beef.
The mixed pickle platter, a steal at $10.50, was the best selection of pickles I've ever had the privilege of eating. Each item involved different spices. My favorites were the "bread and smoke pickles" which included some heavily toasted bread crumbs for the smoke component, the Korean pickles, and the golden curry beets.
There's a large pastry selection there and while the chocolate rugelach and the strawberry Danish were both excellent, it was the miso magic cookie, with its medley of flavors and textures that really stood out. Sweet, salty, sticky, crunchy, crispy, gooey, chocolatey, peanut butter-y, and miso-y.
I'm not going to say Cordelia was better than Larder, but I'm also not going to say it was worse. With Chef Vinnie Cimino, the former chef de cuisine of Greenhouse Tavern, behind the food and the location in the former Lola space, this place is the next generation of Cleveland food royalty.
I wasn't going to get the burger, which is kind of an homage to Ohio-born White Castle (that's four mini burgers stuck together), but we were seated at the counter and it looked too good to pass up. That was a wise decision. I've had a lot of burgers. A lot. All over the country. If someone put this burger on a list of the 10 best burgers in the United States, I wouldn't say they were wrong. If this place was in Chicago and someone put together a top 10 burgers in Chicago list and Cordelia wasn't on it, there's a decent chance I'd disregard everything else that writer had to say about food.
The menu just says "1921 style, smoked cheddar pickles, onion, our sauce." That clearly doesn't cover everything, most notably the beef, the everything bagel type seasoning on the bread, the specifics on the bread, the contents of the sauce, or what they're doing to get those super green pickles. What I do know is these smashed burgers get a whole bunch of salt while on the griddle along with a massive amount of cheese, and that every single component works. As long as Cordelia is open, I will not set foot in Cleveland and not eat this burger.
A lot of the food has Asian elements, including the second best item we had - the beef tartare that incorporate shoyu and sesame and was served with a ramp pancake.
The ants on a log made with champagne-soaked rhubarb, golden raisins soaked in something we weren't told, and pistachio under the rhubarb in paste/butter form was a fun start to the meal.
The artichoke dip with rainbow chard and "creamy cheese" isn't super photogenetic, but it was (relatively low bar) the best artichoke dip I've ever had. Would happily order again. The chips were allegedly malt garlic flavor, but they just tasted like top notch homemade salty chips to us.
The cabbage and cold noodles was yet another winner. Made with Akron honey, sesame and chili crunch, this was an addictive bowl.
For dessert we had a butterscotch pudding that fell a little short for us. It was too thin and, after the explosion of flavors in the rest of the meal, too muted. Probably would have been good as a starter.
Side note on Cleveland. I did want to get my first Polish Boy in 8 years, but it appears to be a dying art form. Hot Sauce Wiliams, Seti's and Freddie's are all closed. There are still some other options but none that the internet could convince me to spend time and stomach space on.