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Portugal 2022 trip with pics

Portugal 2022 trip with pics
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  • Post #31 - April 18th, 2024, 8:22 pm
    Post #31 - April 18th, 2024, 8:22 pm Post #31 - April 18th, 2024, 8:22 pm
    The GP wrote:Echoing Ronnie, great photos! That pain au chocolat! :shock: What's in the Bola de Berlim?


    It is filled with a basic cream filling. Panicova makes over a thousand of these a day during the beach season.
  • Post #32 - April 18th, 2024, 8:33 pm
    Post #32 - April 18th, 2024, 8:33 pm Post #32 - April 18th, 2024, 8:33 pm
    2024 Part Three: Terceira





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    The statue of Vasco Da Gama coming ashore in Angra do Heroismo, Ilha Terceira, Açores.




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    There is only one real notable bakery or pastelaria in the well maintained historic center of Angra do Heroismo. O Forno Pastelaria has a counter display with handwritten recipes of their most special baked goods. The famous baked goods are also boxed up for store sales and export.


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    The Caretas, made with a pinch of almonds.



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    In front are the Quejadas Conde da Praia. These are made with sugar, eggs, cinnamon, and a bit of sweet potato. The two in the back are Bolos Dona Amelia, made with cinnamon, honey, and raisins. The legend is that the recipe was altered from a previous treat for a visit from the Queen of Portugal Dona Amelia.




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    Just outside the hiking trails in the interior of Ilha Terceira, and at an important intersection for the locals and ranchers was a food truck serving locals and tourists. This was identified only by the words Alegra Te on the side.



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    The side-of-the-road bifana sandwich, with local potato chips.


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    Much later in my visit, I passed a couple of places that weren't open yet, and another was full. I caught a bus from one small town to Praia da Vitória, and I had one place on the edge of town saved in my map application. This was a Casa de Pasto, a phrase many restaurants use, I think it is an older phrase for a place where meals are served. The full name here is Casa de Pasto Bela Vista - Eliseu.

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    The Alcatra Regional. This is a clay pot filled with stewed beef. The dish is served boiling hot, I had to wait for the water to cool and most of the steam to clear before taking the photo. The accompaniments were a thick slice of bread for dipping into the "sauce" in the clay pot, along with rice and french fries that would also absorb the liquid. The cuts of beef were very soft.


    O Forno Pastelaria
    Rua de Sāo Joāo 67
    Angra do Heroísmo, Portugal


    Tasca Alegra-te
    S. Bartolomeu de Regatos, Portugal


    Casa de Pasto Bela Vista - Eliseu Aguiar
    Vale Farto nº30
    Praia da Vitória, Portugal


    Coming up: I might have to make one more stop here on Ilha Terceira.
  • Post #33 - April 18th, 2024, 9:34 pm
    Post #33 - April 18th, 2024, 9:34 pm Post #33 - April 18th, 2024, 9:34 pm
    Tyrgyzistan wrote:Panicova makes over a thousand of these a day during the beach season.

    Excellent, I can bring a date.
  • Post #34 - April 20th, 2024, 8:40 pm
    Post #34 - April 20th, 2024, 8:40 pm Post #34 - April 20th, 2024, 8:40 pm
    2024 Part Four: A Visit to Quinta dos Açores







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    Shrouded in fog, like everything else on the island. It's the main location of Quinta dos Açores, with dairy production on the first floor, and a retail store and restaurant on the top level. This is at the top of a hill just outside Angra Do Heroismo, and on clear days have a panoramic view from the dining area.



    A Quinta in Portuguese roughly translates to a rural house or a place in the countryside. People with jobs in the big city go back to their family's Quinta and do chores on weekends. The word comes up often in restaurant and hotel names.



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    This is the double burger, here served with giant slices of bacon and hunks of melted cheese on each patty. It might seem kind of silly to buy a giant burger while on vacation so far away. I don't eat burgers often at home. But when you order a burger at a restaurant in Açores you are served beef that comes from the islands here. The cheese that covers up the hamburger patties is local also.



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    The Quinta dos Açores location in Ponta Delgada is beside the Parque Urbano on the edge of the central area.



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    This is the Açoreaninha, their version of the Francesinha sandwich from Porto. The top layer is a Bolo Lêvedo, a local muffin type of bread, covered with sauce and melted cheese. The layers of meats piled underneath include sliced ham, pork sausage, a small steak, and beef sausage. This sandwich, and other francesinhas are big enough for people with American appetites.


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    I think this is a scoop of passionfruit ice cream on top of some other flavors in a giant cup.


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    On my return trip to the ice cream shop, I went for the cheesecake flavored scoop.



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    The ice cream shop is in the center of the tourist area beside the port in Angra do Heroismo.



    Quinta dos Açores
    Pico Redondo, 149, São Bento
    Angra do Heroísmo, Portugal


    Quinta dos Açores
    Caminho da Levada, 134
    Ponta Delgada, Portugal


    Loja do Gelado - Quinta dos Açores
    Edifício da Marina de, piso 1
    Angra do Heroísmo, Portugal
  • Post #35 - April 22nd, 2024, 10:13 pm
    Post #35 - April 22nd, 2024, 10:13 pm Post #35 - April 22nd, 2024, 10:13 pm
    2024 Part Five: Trilhas, Ilha São Miguel





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    I started my time on the big island São Miguel with big plans to visit the trails located all over the island. But every day on the island has to start in the big city in the middle of the island, Ponta Delgada.




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    INTZ48 is the only coffee shop that resembles the American/European style, most local cafes only serve espresso. But this place cut back its hours during my visit, I only made it here once.



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    The latte from INTZ48



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    The cafe Dondué was the only option in the center of Ponta Delgada that was open before the buses would take off from the main boulevard. This place was not at the top of my list to visit, but I was surprised by the long menu of breakfast options


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    The Oat Bowl was good for a morning before doing things outdoors.


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    The espresso com panna, with sprinkles.


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    The Spirulina bowl, with fruit and granola on top of the local yogurt. The spirulina meant that all the yogurt turned bright green after mixing the ingredients.



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    Somewhat appropriately, the Yoçor delivery truck bringing in the local yogurt to the door of Dondué.



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    The Railway Bar is the concession shack for a privately operated park known as Parque Grena. It has a trail to a dramatic waterfall, an abandoned ruin of an English vacation home, and well-maintained walking trails.


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    Pão de ló, I think that's what the guy here said. Sponge cake, with caramel icing, and sprinkles on top. This was good after walking around the lake Lagoa Das Furnas.



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    Another day brought me to the dramatic volcanic crater-shaped mountains and lakes area known as Sete Cidades. I had expected the trails to have some snacking options or food trucks, but there was nothing to be seen at the rim of the volcanic caldera. I walked back to the small town of Sete Cidades and the choices were thin, with only two places serving food that afternoon. I chose a tea house attached to a hotel that called itself "O Poejo".


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    The local soda, Kima, flavored with passionfruit.


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    This is the sausage plate with local bread. The red sausage is choriço, the black is a blood sausage called Morcela. The pineapple at the end is the local variation Ananá, grown on plantations around the island. This is a common snack dish around the Açores.



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    On the opposite side of the island is the town of Villa Franco do Campo. This is close to the trail to the other volcanic crater lake, Lagoa do Fogo. Behind Hot Dogs VR, you can see the range of mountains around the lake.



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    The Bifana VR, the specialty of this specific lunch stand. Here the pork is topped with a fried egg, lettuce, sliced ham, and little potato chips.



    Intz48 Coffee Roasters
    R. Hintze Ribeiro 46-48
    Ponta Delgada, Portugal


    Dondué
    R. do Melo 12
    Ponta Delgada, Portugal


    Railway Bar
    Parque da Grená
    Lagoa das Furnas, Portugal


    Casa de Chá "O Poejo"
    Rua do Queiro nº 9
    Sete Cidades, Portugal


    Hot Dogs VR
    Rua Teófilo Braga s/n,
    Vila Franca Do Campo, Portugal



    Coming up: I have to go deeper into Ilha São Miguel
  • Post #36 - April 24th, 2024, 9:14 pm
    Post #36 - April 24th, 2024, 9:14 pm Post #36 - April 24th, 2024, 9:14 pm
    2024 Part Six: Ilha Sao Miguel continued









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    After seeing the natural wonders and magnificent gardens of São Miguel, I felt the need to grab something to eat.





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    I was walking back from one of the trails and it was raining pretty hard then a farmer driving a tractor stopped to give me a ride. He drops me off at the main road and tells me to go to Bar Da Praia until the bus comes by. Bar Da Praia overlooks one of the few real beaches on the island.


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    The Bacalhau à Brás, shredded cod fish cooked with French fried potatoes. This was a good lunch on a rainy day.




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    Just around the corner from one of the most visited spots on the island, Parque Terra Nostra, is Queijaria Furnense. The cheese shop is also a bar and a restaurant. The menu has many cheese boards along with sandwiches and burgers.


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    The pão de alho, garlic bread. This had a few different cheeses in between the layers of rolled dough. This is the half serving when it is cut into or pulled apart the local cheese melts and flows out.


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    The prego com queijo, steak sandwich with local cheese.



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    I was on my way back to Ponta Delgada and was close enough to visit one of the highest-rated and most recommended restaurants on the island. Bar Caloura is locally famous for its large selection of fresh seafood, and its patio that sits right next to the crashing ocean waves. I didn't recognize the many different local fish on the menu, so the waiter invited me to the room where I could look at the fish and decide which filet or whole fish I wanted.


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    The peixe porco, triggerfish with boiled potatoes.



    Bar Praia de Água d'Alto
    Estr. Regional 1-1
    Água de Alto, Portugal



    Queijaria Furnense
    R. Caminho Novo 3
    Furnas, Portugal


    Bar Caloura
    Rua da Caloura, 20
    Água de Pau, Portugal



    Coming Up: my time in Ilha São Miguel is almost over.
  • Post #37 - April 25th, 2024, 12:46 am
    Post #37 - April 25th, 2024, 12:46 am Post #37 - April 25th, 2024, 12:46 am
    Just a quick note to thank Tyrgyzistan for this treasure trove of a trip report. Reading the most recent update together with my first cup of coffee has been a highlight of my past few weeks' mornings!
  • Post #38 - April 25th, 2024, 8:34 am
    Post #38 - April 25th, 2024, 8:34 am Post #38 - April 25th, 2024, 8:34 am
    Bridgestone wrote:Just a quick note to thank Tyrgyzistan for this treasure trove of a trip report. Reading the most recent update together with my first cup of coffee has been a highlight of my past few weeks' mornings!

    I've been doing the same and fully agree!
    -Mary
  • Post #39 - April 27th, 2024, 9:02 pm
    Post #39 - April 27th, 2024, 9:02 pm Post #39 - April 27th, 2024, 9:02 pm
    2024 Part Seven: Leaving Sao Miguel





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    It's time for me to say goodbye to the Islands of the Happy Cows.




    If you like green fields separated by volcanic rock walls with black and white spotted cows inside, then this is your kind of place. The trails lead a visitor beside the pastures, along roads for the farmers between the rows of volcanic rock barriers, and sometimes through the pastures and in between the cows. The cows follow along and moo when a stranger passes. I get the idea that people with small yards don't call a maintenance person to cut the grass but instead, they have a neighbor who just brings his cow in to eat the top layer of the grass.


    I was able to hike along the volcano craters where the wind at the top had the power to push me backward. There was no shortage of lakes, forests, abandoned ruins, lava flow rocks, dramatic cliffs, and lighthouses. I was able to hear the sounds of the brass bands the locals call "filarmonicas" that march through the small towns on Catholic holidays.



    As the end of my time on the islands came nearer, it slowly dawned on me that I hadn't scheduled enough time to see all the different things or visit all the places I had wanted to. I felt like I had only just scratched the surface of the islands. I never made it to the small fishing villages on the opposite side of the islands from the main hubs. I felt like stopping on just two islands out of nine wasn't enough to experience to place. This was not a case of me being some kind of savvy traveler with everything figured out. I didn't plan it out quite right. It's hard for me to imagine ever really finding time to visit the other islands or places that I missed. The outlying islands include some very remote outposts. There are large logistical challenges to visiting some of the other islands too. There is also quite a bit of local food I never got around to trying. There is local cheese, volcanic wines, stewed or grilled octopus, grilled clams, sweet shops with baked goods, deserts with the local cookies, the list is endless.


    The other people leaving the island at the airport compared São Miguel to New Zealand, it's so lush and green. I spoke to a person with relatives on the Terceira who had visited once, she compared it to Hawaii. The big thing is that there aren't any great beaches, there are stretches of dark gray sand that don't attract the mass tourism of islands or the coastal regions like southern Portugal or Spain. There are protests against big tourism hotel developments in the Canary Islands, recent news features in my feed show residents in the Balearic Islands living in cars during the summer because rentals are too expensive. The Açores has more of a balance, there aren't so many hotel beds and the tourist areas don't dominate the environment.



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    The skies cleared at the end of one of my final days on Ilha São Miguel and the city of Ponta Delgada sprung to life with more pedestrians and businesses opening their doors. There was also a cruise ship from Germany dropping off tourists for the day. The area by the port with food trucks had been completely shuttered every other time I had visited. Now the desert serving trucks were serving.


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    The soft serve from Mucca, I think this was Nata cream flavor. The sun was melting the ice cream and the birds circling very close meant I had to take the photo quickly.




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    I had one last Portuguese doçaria or sweet shop to squeeze in during my stay on the islands. This is Queijadas do Morgano, where they make Queijadas da Vila.


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    When you see the words "fábrica próprio" on the sign, it means the sweets are baked on-site.


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    The Queijadas da Vila were small and packed with much sugar.


    Mucca
    Portas da Cidade
    Ponta Delgada, Portugal


    Queijadas do Morgado
    R. do Penedo 20
    Vila Franca Do Campo, Portugal







    Coming up: the long trip home includes a return to Lisbon.
  • Post #40 - April 29th, 2024, 10:20 pm
    Post #40 - April 29th, 2024, 10:20 pm Post #40 - April 29th, 2024, 10:20 pm
    2024 Part Eight: return to Mercado Oriental Martim Moniz.







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    I had enjoyed my previous visit to the Food Court above the Asian grocery store beside the big open square known as Praça Martim Moniz. This place is convenient, just outside the central Baixa area and near a metro stop. The crowd is big and diverse, a mix of tourists, locals, and many young people or students. It's hard to find a table in the middle of the day. Returning meant seeing a little bit of turnover in the food stalls, and more options to try.



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    Asian Kitchen, near the back of the dimly lit food court.



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    I started with Takoyaki, little fried snacks with octopus inside. This was a good appetizer.



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    I was desperately hungry, and K-BOB Korean stall had a translated menu.


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    Frango Frito Coreano, the Korean Fried Chicken. This was dipped in a slightly spicy sauce.


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    One last thing I had to try was a Bao sandwich from a stall at the very back of the food court, Bao Bar.


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    The Caranguejo Bao, the crab sandwich. This had many toppings above a fried crab and a small bao bun.



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    The tiles are important, Portuguese tilework as you walk into the Mercado Oriental. I was inspired to revisit the Mercado after seeing the Asian art collections at Museu do Oriente and Museu Calouste Gulbenkian.





    Special bonus to the return to Mercado Oriental: Trying one of the ubiquitous Nepalese places.



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    These places are everywhere in Lisbon. Each Nepali restaurant has a huge picture menu with Indian and Nepalese dishes. Nearly all of them have outdoor patio seating. I didn't know anything about Nepalese food, so I blindly ordered from the momo dumpling area of the menu at Everest Nepal Momo.


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    The Buff Jhol Momo, buffalo meat dumplings in a heavily seasoned broth.




    Mercado Oriental Martim Moniz
    Praça Martim Moniz, 41-41A
    Lisboa, Portugal


    Everest Nepal Momo Restaurant
    R. Álvaro Coutinho 2B,
    Lisboa, Portugal



    Coming up: The end is in sight, final write up coming soon.
  • Post #41 - May 1st, 2024, 10:14 pm
    Post #41 - May 1st, 2024, 10:14 pm Post #41 - May 1st, 2024, 10:14 pm
    2024 Part Nine: Last Stops.





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    The flight back to America had me spending one final half of a day in Lisbon. I am never organized on my last day of vacation, I always end up running around trying to catch up on things. But in between the commitments on my final day of vacation, I had a chance to revisit an old favorite.



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    Walking close to the big main square by the river Tagus meant I could stop back to the local coffee chain Fábrica Coffee Roasters.


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    The latte with what they called a poppy seed cake, but was more like a folded-over layered baked goody.


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    Something had changed in some of the high traffic and heavily touristed spaces in the past year. Some enterprising individuals had constructed shacks serving food and drinks in nearly every open space. The miradouros or vista points, the open squares, and the waterfront all had these shacks that looked set up specifically to serve tourists. I walked past at least three of these makeshift food courts. I was planning on just walking past, but the sight of ham and cheese sandwiches stacked in display cases caught my eye.


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    This is the Sandes de Presunto com Queijo, the smoked ham and cheese sandwich. They warmed this one up on a little panini press.





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    I had one last chance to stop by my single favorite sandwich place O Triângulo da Ribeira. I was pleased to find that absolutely nothing had changed since my last visit two years earlier. The same two people were inside, maybe even the same customers crowded in getting glasses of wine with their sandwiches.


    The lady cooking the sandwich juggles a single pan for cooking meats to order along with a big pot of bifanas in sauce, atop a tiny cooking area. She takes little bits of the bifana sauce, made with wine and garlic and other ingredients, and drops it into the hot plate.



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    This is the bacon, egg, and cheese sandwich. The bacon was a thicker and wider cut than what gets served at restaurants back home. The meat doesn't fall over the bun like the other sandwiches served here, so the sandwich doesn't look as dramatic.



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    This is the star of the menu, prego com ovo, steak and egg sandwich. The thin cuts of beef are scored and lightly salted before being cooked. I can leave Portugal knowing that my favorite spot from earlier is still going on the same.



    Fábrica Coffee Roasters

    R. do Comércio 111
    Lisboa, Portugal




    Fumeiro Artesanal de Seia
    Praça da Figueira
    Lisboa, Portugal



    O Triângulo da Ribeira
    R. Ribeira Nova 48
    Lisboa, Portugal
  • Post #42 - May 1st, 2024, 10:21 pm
    Post #42 - May 1st, 2024, 10:21 pm Post #42 - May 1st, 2024, 10:21 pm
    Just an awesome travelog with gorgeous images and insightful descriptions. Sometimes it's hard to comment on such epic posting when you're just in awe reading it but thank you for taking the time and sharing with us. I know I'm not alone when I tell you that it's truly appreciated! :)

    =R=
    Same planet, different world

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