Intelligentsia Coffee in L.A.

Several months ago while in Los Angeles, we heard rumors about an Intelligentsia Coffee shop opening up somewhere around the Hollywood area. As a fanatical Intelligentsia coffee lover, I was disappointed to learn that they would be opening up shortly after leaving. (Intelligentsia won Roast magazine's 2007 "Roaster of the Year" award.) Last week, I happily returned to the City of Angels for another splendid culinary adventure (23 places in 3 days). My only regret was that I was only able to guide ReneG on parts one and two point five of PIGMON's Xiao Long Bao Odyssey. We did however, get a chance to stop at the newest Intelligentsia shop located at the intersection of Santa Monica Boulevard and Sunset Boulevard (Sunset Junction) in Silver Lake.

The shop has an impressive and inviting location as well as a simple charm.


(Photo courtesy of ReneG)

It was quite apparent from the line coming out the door that the coffee-lovin' denizens of L.A. had surely discovered the beauty of an Intelligentsia-made cup of coffee. As I waited in the sizable line, I noticed that it wasn't moving an inch after several minutes and just chalked it up to the numerous glitches that arise at any newly opened coffeehouse. But when I finally got to the front, I was informed that ALL brewed coffees were made exclusively from their 2 Clover machines which produce only one cup of coffee at a time.
This $11,000 high-tech machine makes mighty fine coffee.

The Clover has an internet interface which can be programmed to optimize and bring out specific characteristics of various types of coffee at every stage of the brewing cycle. It produces incredibly clean and nuanced coffee which often times is lost with more conventional brewing methods. Subtleties that exist in the more delicate and refined coffees are drawn out with its use.

Louisa Chu did a wonderful piece about the Clover that contains a thorough description of how this piston-pumpin'/vacuum sealin' contraption works.

Thanks, Louisa!

The article also talks about an interesting taste-test she did brewing Folger's Classic Roast coffee using a French press, a Chemex, and a Clover to see their influences, if any, when using this relatively low-grade coffee.

ReneG and I decided to do our own scientist-ing as well. Our research entailed using freshly ground Tres Santos (Colombia) beans brewed at my nearby office with a Technivorm MoccaMaster against a cup also made with Tres Santos made with a Clover at the Intelligentsia coffeeshop just 2 blocks away (Jackson St.).
Both coffees were able to be tasted hot shortly thereafter.

What we found was that the high notes of the Clover cup came out brilliantly but its body had been antiseptically extracted out, leaving a relatively hollow mouth-feel. The Techivorm also had a somewhat steely clean backbone to it but in relation to the Clover-made coffee, it tasted as though it came from a typical French press, having more dimensions to it as well as body. Although I accidently made the MoccaMaster's coffee quite a bit stronger, the reason I enjoyed its coffee better, I believe, was independent of this fact. An appropriate metaphor would be a true music lover's preference (don't look at me) for vinyl with its rich and fuller sound compared to a CD whose recordings tend to have a more tinny sound. Don't get me wrong. The MoccaMaster is known to make incredibly refined and clean coffee already. But coffee made with a Clover is like a chemist doing a titration; crystal pure to the point of being scary.

I liked both examples greatly. However, I'm not sold that a Clover-made cup is either worth the extra expense or is any better than my usual cup brewed with a Techniform MoccaMaster.



This place was chock full of hipsters and colorful characters. While parked in front of the store, sipping my coffee, I watched with great amusement as a steady stream of stereotypical Hollywood types came parading out of the store. This was certainly a lot of fun and one of the high points of my L.A. stay.


(Photo courtesy of ReneG)

Clovers can be found here in Chicago at both Intelligentsia Loop locations. Their Monadnock location just started making drinks with the Clover within the last few months while the Millenium Park location (Randolph St.) has been using one since its inception almost two years ago. Coffees offered are usually their "Top Five" selections (costing around $2.50-$3.50 for a large cup) with super-premium coffees on offer for more.

With the recent purchase of the Clover Equipment Company (Seattle, WA) by Starbucks, I'm very curious to see what path Intelligentsia takes in the near future with these machines.



Intelligentsia in California

3922 W Sunset Blvd,
Los Angeles, CA
(323) 663-6173


______________________

Intelligentsia Shops with Clovers in Chicago

Monadnock Building
53 West Jackson Boulevard
Chicago, IL
(312) 253-0594

And

Millenium Park
53 East Randolph St.
Chicago, IL
(312) 920-9332

Rob, thanks for the report. With a trip coming up later this fall, it's nice to know where to head for the daily fix.

Question: do you know whether any Clovers are destined for the mother ship on Broadway?

Gypsy Boy wrote:Question: do you know whether any Clovers are destined for the mother ship on Broadway?

According to Mike Sula's March 21 blog entry on "The Food Chain" - yes, but who knows now with these recent developments.

PIGMON wrote:This place was chock full of hipsters and colorful characters.

Hmmm. You mean Chock Full O' Nuts?

Thanks for the report, Rob. I particularly appreciate that you apply your wine tasting expertise to a clarify your description of the coffee. It's a vicarious thrill.

PIGMON wrote:With the recent purchase of the Clover Equipment Company (Seattle, WA) by Starbucks, I'm very curious to see what path Intelligentsia takes in the near future with these machines.

A good friend of mine works at Starbuks and is in charge of the design and maintenance of their coffee brewing machines. He's been working there since there was only one Starbuks. Starbuks machines have long been interconnected via the net and Larry can troubleshoot them and adjust all of the brewing parameters from the comfort of his Seattle office. I wonder what he has in mind for the Clover machines. I guess I'll have to give him a call and report back if I can find out anything.

stevez wrote:Starbuks machines have long been interconnected via the net and Larry can troubleshoot them and adjust all of the brewing parameters from the comfort of his Seattle office.

I'm pretty sure this is how Skynet starts and heralds in our robot-driven judgment day.

eatchicago wrote:

stevez wrote:Starbuks machines have long been interconnected via the net and Larry can troubleshoot them and adjust all of the brewing parameters from the comfort of his Seattle office.

I'm pretty sure this is how Skynet starts and heralds in our robot-driven judgment day.

SHHHH!! They're listening!

You're so welcome PIGMON - and thank you!

FYI I just want to clarify that Intelligentsia doesn't charge anything extra for making a cup of coffee in a Clover. The prices vary because of the beans. Normally they'll only offer their top five reserve beans of the week made in the Clover, for which they've optimized Clover brewing parameters. Other places may charge a surcharge - not that I've heard of - but definitely not Intelligentsia.

Just to update folks on this location, I was there in December of 2008. I was staying with a family member in West Hollywood and was in dire need of good espresso. We went on a Saturday afternoon around 3:00 and the lines continue to be out the door.

You have to be dedicated to wait, but as always it was worth it.

As an FYI, prior to being in LA I was in Denver where I frequently find myself on business. I have managed to find the only good coffee in Denver at Aviano on Lincoln. Aviano is owned by a husband and wife who love coffee and serve Intelligentsia. They were trained in Chicago by Intelligentsia and take pride in what they do.

From Chicago to LA, Intelligentsia’s legacy as a pioneer includes a cadre of spinoff roasters nationwide

https://www.chicagotribune.com/dining/c ... story.html

Dave148 wrote:

From Chicago to LA, Intelligentsia’s legacy as a pioneer includes a cadre of spinoff roasters nationwide

https://www.chicagotribune.com/dining/c ... story.html

Thanks Dave148-- I am home with my Mum and Sis in SC. As a home roaster, this brightened everything. I packed coffee for me for the week, my Mum and Sis don't normally touch it. Turns out good coffee doesn't get turned down. So I am out of coffee. Everyone had at least one cup yesterday, our guest had two. He couldn't get over how great it was.

This local, Sweet Home Chicago, coffee roaster and neighborhood shop treats the coffee with care and a knowledgeable staff that can discuss flavor profiles just like those of wine, whiskey, and cigars.