Mario Luxe – Del Posto – New York
I have been dilatory in posting on my December meal at Del Posto. Yes, the pictures have been on my Flickr account, but I felt that there was not much to say. Perhaps I was blinded by all the glitz.
Although I take some real, if perverse, delight in not admiring Mario Batali’s collection of restaurants (I had a mediocre meal at Otto, a worse meal meal at Lupa, and a loud if satisfying one at Babbo). But I must confess that I enjoyed my meal at Del Posto. OK, I didn’t love it Sam Sifton Four-Stars-Worth, but certainly three stars. It is just that most of the dishes were not quite memorable. But my photographs demand their price, although if I really was into luxe I would have focused on the décor. But, in truth, the elegance didn't add to the experience. It proclaimed that food was not the only concern of the night.
First, let it be said that service our night and at our table was helpful and graceful, and so that contributed to a happy evening, something that has not always been the case at Batali restaurants.
Del Posto’s cuisine is always extravagant, often not well-composed, but at its best it is flavorful and powerful, an Italian cuisine that is merged with novel ingredients.
Roasted Autumn Vegetables with Robiola Sformato and Truffled Hazelnuts. Although not a particularly attractive plate - it was a bit of a mess, the vegetables had a lot of flavor.
Del Posto - New York December 2010 - Roasted Autumn Vegetables with Robiola Sformato and Truffled Hazelnuts by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Lobster Sald Fra Diavola with Broccoli Rabe and Dried Orange. Of the two lobster dishes (one for me, one for my wife) this was the less successful. Too spicy and too little orange.
Del Posto - New York December 2010 - Lobster Sald Fra Diavola with Broccoli Rabe and Dried Orange by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Whole Wheat Tonnarelli with Spicy Cicerchie, Fried Rosemary, and Shaved Bonito An interesting pasta combination. It was thoughtful dish with unexpected flavor notes. Again not striking in the bowl.
Del Posto - New York December 2010 - Whole Wheat Tonnarelli with Spicy Cicerchie, Fried Rosemary, and Shaved Bonito by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Agnolotti with Lambrusco. I found this simple dish the most evocative of the night. Thoroughly delicious. It is the one dish that I truly remember and would love to taste again.
Del Posto - New York December 2010 - Agnolotti with Lambrusco by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Wood-Grilled Lobster with Artichokes, Almonds and Basil. A nice combination of ingredients. Not a brilliant dish, but enjoyable.
Del Posto - New York December 2010 - Wood-Grilled Lobster with Artichokes, Almonds and Basil by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Seared Duck Breast, Apician Spices and Lovage. The duck was cooked more than I prefer, but the spices were an excellent counterpoint with the poultry.
Del Posto - New York December 2010 - Seared Duck Breast, Apician Spices and Lovage by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Butterscotch Semifreddo. Del Posto nods to modernist cuisine. Certainly the prettiest dish of the night with all the right sweet notes.
Del Posto - New York December 2010 - Butterscotch Semifreddo by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Del Posto
85 10th Avenue
New York, New York 10011
212-497-8090
http://www.delposto.com/home.htm
Toast, as every breakfaster knows, isn't really about the quality of the bread or how it's sliced or even the toaster. For man cannot live by toast alone. It's all about the butter. -- Adam Gopnik