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We Have a Go at Timpano: Keep it simple; lesson learned

We Have a Go at Timpano: Keep it simple; lesson learned
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  • We Have a Go at Timpano: Keep it simple; lesson learned

    Post #1 - May 15th, 2017, 9:13 am
    Post #1 - May 15th, 2017, 9:13 am Post #1 - May 15th, 2017, 9:13 am
    We Have a Go at Timpano: Keep it simple; lesson learned

    If you’ve seen the movie “Big Night,” in which two Italian brothers attempt to save their dying restaurant by having singer Louis Prima to dinner, you know about timpano, an Italian culinary creation that got a dining room response only slightly less beatifically orgasmic than the ecstasy of St. Theresa.

    Timpano, like much Italian food, has its roots in simple folk; it’s a way to make everyday pasta special. A kind of pasta cake, it resembles an inverted timpani, or kettle drum.

    Timpano, cross section, photo David Hammond.jpg Timpano cross-section, loaded


    Timpano, at its most elemental, is a layered affair of pasta, sauce, cheese and sausage. Being Americans, we overdo everything (talking to you Lou Malnati and other deep dish enthusiasts). We added pasta and sausage, but also meatballs, mushrooms, eggplant, spring garlic, mozzarella, ricotta, provolone, hard-boiled eggs and a Neapolitan ragu containing chunks of veal and chuck. The whole shebang is encased in pasta dough so that when it comes out of the oven it’s a drum-like pasta mountain.

    Squeezing soaked bread to make meatballs for timpano, photo David Hammond.jpg Squeezing soaked bread to make meatballs for timpano


    Fabricating the timpano, photo David Hammond.jpg Fabricating the timpano


    One of my great good fortunes is to be married to a person who is willing to cook anything. To inspire Carolyn, I got a new and beautiful Lagostina polenta pan because it was the right size for a regulation timpano. Carolyn set to work, and kept at it for the better part of two days. In “Big Night,” they knock it out in an afternoon, even taking the time to make their own pasta: such is the stuff of filmic fantasy.

    Carolyn used a semolina flour to make the pasta covering…but she was not entirely happy with the result, saying, “The grain of the flour was not good for incorporating fat, eggs, and water; it was also very difficult to roll.” Though I liked the taste, it lacked the diaphanous lightness of the pasta shell in "Big Night," the model for all timpani, now and forever. Re-watching the movie, it looks like the Italian brothers used regular white flour, which made for a lighter, more elastic casing.

    We let the timpano cool for the recommended half hour or so, and the crust was already starting to crack.

    A bigger problem may have been that we overdid it and just stuffed in too much damn stuff. Next time we (and by “we,” I mean mostly Carolyn) make this dish, I’m going to lobby for fewer ingredients.

    Timpano, exterior and interior.jpg Timpano, cracking exterior, stuff interior


    Carolyn thought there was also a problem with the pan. Maybe, again, we went too fancy. The Lagostina pan was made for polenta, and it will be perfect for that, but it was very deep and made of thick metal. “I think,” said Carolyn, “that a thin enameled wash basin like the one used in ‘Big Night’ would have transferred heat to the crust surface more easily.” Again, simpler is better.

    In addition, instead of packing the shell with sauce, maybe we’ll just add a little sauce to the timpano, and then present each slice of timpano in a pool of sauce so that each slice stays moist and the cake itself is not overloaded.

    In timpano, simple Italian household foods – pasta, tomato sauce, sausage or meatballs and cheese – come together in a beautiful thing. Fit for Louis Prima.
    "Don't you ever underestimate the power of a female." Bootsy Collins
  • Post #2 - May 16th, 2017, 8:23 am
    Post #2 - May 16th, 2017, 8:23 am Post #2 - May 16th, 2017, 8:23 am
    I've noticed a lot of semolina flour found in supermarkets is quite coarse. Semolina 00 flour, though, should be ideal for pasta.
    What is patriotism, but the love of good things we ate in our childhood?
    -- Lin Yutang
  • Post #3 - May 17th, 2017, 1:52 pm
    Post #3 - May 17th, 2017, 1:52 pm Post #3 - May 17th, 2017, 1:52 pm
    Hi,

    I have also been fascinated with making this dish.

    I am also quite interested in Taganu: the Easter dish of Aragona, Sicily, & Rockford, IL.

    You are sure lucky your wife likes to play in the kitchen!

    Regards,
    Cathy2
    Cathy2

    "You'll be remembered long after you're dead if you make good gravy, mashed potatoes and biscuits." -- Nathalie Dupree
    Facebook, Twitter, Greater Midwest Foodways,
  • Post #4 - May 17th, 2017, 1:57 pm
    Post #4 - May 17th, 2017, 1:57 pm Post #4 - May 17th, 2017, 1:57 pm
    I originally read this as "We Have a Goat Timpano." Only after reading a bit did I realize there's no goat in it.
  • Post #5 - May 17th, 2017, 4:26 pm
    Post #5 - May 17th, 2017, 4:26 pm Post #5 - May 17th, 2017, 4:26 pm
    Indeed, I remember this well from Big Night. I also loved reading about your journey making it. And no matter what you say about the problems you encountered making it, in my mind the finished product looks incredible. I'll bet it's even more delicious.

    Nonetheless, that is one of the frustrating things about being a home cook. We don't usually have the time to tackle such projects, so when we do, we pray the results will match the effort. It almost seems terribly unfair that that is not always the case. But I'm always willing to be a taste tester for friends of mine tackling such projects – I usually get to taste incredibly delicious food, even if my friends feel like they didn't succeed 100%.

    One of these days, I would like to give timpano a try for myself.
  • Post #6 - May 18th, 2017, 7:53 am
    Post #6 - May 18th, 2017, 7:53 am Post #6 - May 18th, 2017, 7:53 am
    nr706 wrote:I originally read this as "We Have a Goat Timpano." Only after reading a bit did I realize there's no goat in it.

    Thanks, nr706. Now I only see "Goat Timpano." ;-)

    David and Carolyn -- thanks for sharing your journey on this.
    -Mary
  • Post #7 - May 18th, 2017, 8:56 am
    Post #7 - May 18th, 2017, 8:56 am Post #7 - May 18th, 2017, 8:56 am
    Yep. The minute you started posting about this the vegetarian version started forming in my mind's eye.
    Ava-"If you get down and out, just get in the kitchen and bake a cake."- Jean Strickland

    Horto In Urbs- Falling in love with Urban Vegetable Gardening
  • Post #8 - May 18th, 2017, 2:13 pm
    Post #8 - May 18th, 2017, 2:13 pm Post #8 - May 18th, 2017, 2:13 pm
    BR wrote: We don't usually have the time to tackle such projects, so when we do, we pray the results will match the effort. It almost seems terribly unfair that that is not always the case.


    Our recipe is a composite take from several sources. Carolyn streamlined the process when she could, and there were some steps (like the soaking of stale bread, squeezing and working into meat for meatballs) that seemed unnecessary elaborations.
    "Don't you ever underestimate the power of a female." Bootsy Collins
  • Post #9 - May 18th, 2017, 2:18 pm
    Post #9 - May 18th, 2017, 2:18 pm Post #9 - May 18th, 2017, 2:18 pm
    David Hammond wrote:... there were some steps (like the soaking of stale bread, squeezing and working into meat for meatballs) that seemed unnecessary elaborations.

    That was from an era when meat was expensive and stretching it was what you did with the bread. Once people get used it, then it becomes the unbreakable tradition that contributed to making it special.
    Cathy2

    "You'll be remembered long after you're dead if you make good gravy, mashed potatoes and biscuits." -- Nathalie Dupree
    Facebook, Twitter, Greater Midwest Foodways,
  • Post #10 - May 18th, 2017, 2:21 pm
    Post #10 - May 18th, 2017, 2:21 pm Post #10 - May 18th, 2017, 2:21 pm
    Cathy2 wrote:
    David Hammond wrote:... there were some steps (like the soaking of stale bread, squeezing and working into meat for meatballs) that seemed unnecessary elaborations.

    That was from an era when meat was expensive and stretching it was what you did with the bread. Once people get used it, then it becomes the unbreakable tradition that contributed to making it special.

    Not entirely: meatballs stay moister, softer with panade. Cook's Illustrated wants it in every ground beef recipe including burgers. When they're just one component, you can probably do without it, but if meatballs were the feature, ending up dry or rubbery would be a bigger deal. Except when you want that, like the ones in Vietnamese soups.
    What is patriotism, but the love of good things we ate in our childhood?
    -- Lin Yutang
  • Post #11 - May 19th, 2017, 11:45 am
    Post #11 - May 19th, 2017, 11:45 am Post #11 - May 19th, 2017, 11:45 am
    Now I wonder if I should go back and read his post on goat gravlax more carefully.
    "Your swimming suit matches your eyes, you hold your nose before diving, loving you has made me bananas!"
  • Post #12 - January 20th, 2025, 7:49 pm
    Post #12 - January 20th, 2025, 7:49 pm Post #12 - January 20th, 2025, 7:49 pm
    My friend Scott invited me to join him for a Timpano class at Tutore Italian Cooking School.

    Class began at 11 am and scheduled to conclude at 2:30 pm, though we were still there after 3 pm chatting with people. This class included a seafood salad and cake made with limoncello.

    Students were instructed to bring a 5-6 quart Dutch oven. I came with my 6.5 quart, though I had a smaller one made of glass. It turned out it was the perfect size, because I used all the filling. An already heavy Dutch oven was now unpleasantly heavy.
    This was a very meat-centric Timpano with Italian sausage, Mortadella, homemade meatballs. hardboiled eggs, plus pasta, sauce, mozzarella and Parmesan (or Romano). All this was layered into a butter pastry lining the Dutch oven's interior. Once filled, then a pastry lid encased the Timbano.

    If I was a good girl, I was supposed to take this home to bake in a 350 (or 375) oven for an hour. I did not get home for another six hours. Instead I let the Timpano freeze in the car. This was not recommended, but I have dealt with frozen turkeys straight in the oven. It is possible if you just allow enough time.

    I took the Timbano to the oven around 12:30 pm. I began checking around 3 pm, where there was an icy center. It wasn't until 4:15 that an instant read thermometer reached 160 degrees. It rested for 45 minutes, then it was time to unmold. I took a knife around the perimeter to loosen, which was more ceremonial as there was nothing sticking. I took a half-sheet and contemplated trying to lift and flip at once. It was just too heavy and I knew I was asking for trouble. Instead, I put the Dutch oven in the half-sheet pan, then just flipped it. Pleasantly surprised to find it popped out intact.
    I sliced out two portions for my Dad and I. I called my cat's best friend who often helps him get home. I have two portions freezing for friends. I still have half of the Timpano to enjoy.

    One reason why Scott invited me was to take it all home at the end. He wanted some and not all of it. What a deal!

    It was interesting watching fellow adult class members. I have not taken a cooking class in years. I read recipes, I might check YouTube or ask people here. I also rely on my experience. It was an interesting experience.

    Regards,
    Cathy2
    Cathy2

    "You'll be remembered long after you're dead if you make good gravy, mashed potatoes and biscuits." -- Nathalie Dupree
    Facebook, Twitter, Greater Midwest Foodways,
  • Post #13 - January 22nd, 2025, 11:46 am
    Post #13 - January 22nd, 2025, 11:46 am Post #13 - January 22nd, 2025, 11:46 am
    Cathy, I followed your post with bated breath. I loved reading about the entire journey only to be let down that, of all the details you posted, you left out the most important one: how did it taste?! Were you pleased with the result?
    Gypsy Boy

    "I am not a glutton--I am an explorer of food." (Erma Bombeck)
  • Post #14 - January 23rd, 2025, 12:21 pm
    Post #14 - January 23rd, 2025, 12:21 pm Post #14 - January 23rd, 2025, 12:21 pm
    It was fine as-is and interesting to execute. If I did this again, I would not bother with mortadella. While it was present it was too mild flavored to even be noticed. I would certainly consider including eggplant and/or roasted red peppers. The eggs were slivered, though I might just cut them in half.

    I do have a pint of tomato sauce I did not use yesterday when serving. I will add it today when reheating it. It needed that sauce, because this Timpano is not heavily sauced (probably to avoid leaks) and needing the sauce for moisture.

    First time you do something like this, especially in a class setting, you follow the recipe and instructor.

    Working with a frozen unbaked Timpano would have been risky if I did not have my fresh from the freezer turkey cooking experience. The instructors did not want me to freeze. If I did it, they suggested a long thaw of several days. I knew thawing would create an undesirably wet pastry dough that would be difficult to recover from.

    It was delicious. I would do it again, if I have enough people around to eat. Presently it is just Dad and I, so this is day four of the same meal. Unlike a turkey or ham, you don't really rework the Timpano for leftovers.

    My 6.5 quart Dutch oven was filled to the brim and quite heavy. While it was supposed to serve 8, I think it is at least a dozen. I think I will do a smaller scale version to play around with ideas.

    Regards,
    Cathy2
    Cathy2

    "You'll be remembered long after you're dead if you make good gravy, mashed potatoes and biscuits." -- Nathalie Dupree
    Facebook, Twitter, Greater Midwest Foodways,

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