ultimate coleslaw

i am excited to be hosting my largest vaccinated gathering next week, and the guest of honor requested smoked brisket along with traditional-ish bbq fixins like mac-n-cheese and slaw.

what are your current favorite slaw recipes? we are very partial to a miso-ginger-soy red cabbage slaw and a david leibovitz super garlicky creamy slaw, and our one big no-no is sweetness.

among the many wonders of Ronnie's cooking documentary in the Corona Cuisine thread is his weekly batch of slaw, and that plus the convo here last week about "red slaw", plus looking to possibly balancing the mac-n-cheese with a non-creamy slaw, i thought i would get some debating going.

My absolute favorite slaw is the one served at Smoque. The two defining factors are the tangy oil and vinegar dressing, and the use of red onion, rather than red cabbage, to give it both color and added flavor. Don't have a recipe to share, but if Smoque will sell you a quantity of the dressing, you should be able to construct a reasonable facsimile at home using shredded green cabbage and red onion.

Buddy

Well, I experimented with A LOT of slaw combinations during lockdown and more than any recipe, I think successful slaw comes down to two techniques: salting/squeezing the cabbage and finely grating a sweet onion into the dressing (and admittedly, even that's as much a recipe move as it is one of technique).

I typically use 1.5% of the total cabbage/veg weight to pre-salt it (Kosher salt). Obviously, this comes down to preference but I think this makes the cabbage more palatable, both texturally (softens it a bit) and flavorwise (removes some bitterness). It also removes moisture so that your dressing maintains more of its intensity. Watery slaw is a bummer. You can go overboard here, so don't let it sit too long and don't squeeze the be-geez out of it. I find that about an hour, occasionally squeezed gently along the way (and drained), does the trick.

As for onion, I think it's one of those things that when it's applied correctly, you don't necessarily notice it but when it's not there, you definitely notice that something's missing. I grate it really finely, so that it basically becomes a juice because pieces of onion in slaw is not what I'd want. I've never tried subbing granulated onion but it might also work.

Okay, one additional suggestion, even though I generally like to avoid relying on any specific brands when making recipes. Bragg's unfiltered apple cider vinegar is really nice. It's definitely got some sweet but it's also nicely balanced and the flavor is great. I find that it plays really well in slaw. Again, I don't like sweet slaws but I think some inherent sweetness is needed in cabbage-based slaws to offset the bitterness. The Bragg's fills that void nicely.

Anna, you clearly can cook, so it's probably not helpful for me to say this but I'll say it anyway, trust your palate. Make your dressing first, taste it, dip some cabbage in it and see what you think. Whatever you do, once you come up with something you like, please report back. I'm confident that if you like it, I'm going to like it, and I'll want to make it, too.

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You gonna make us beg. Or are you going to lay out your magic slaw recipe for us to fuck up then complain and criticize.

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G Wiv wrote:=R=

You gonna make us beg. Or are you going to lay out your magic slaw recipe for us to fuck up then complain and criticize.

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LOL! Spoken like a true cookbook author!

I'm happy to share but Anna mentioned she wanted a vinegary slaw and while mine does have some vinegar, it's more mayo-based than anything else. So, I thought I'd let others chime in first. Also, other than the amount of salt (and by extension, the net weight of the cabbage), I've never measured a single component of my slaw. It's all just a bunch of toss-ins. I'll circle back shortly to fill in the blanks.

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I'm really fond of the Spicy Slaw in Gary's book "Low and Slow". It's moderately spicy, very garlicky. It tends to get a little soupy, but Ronnie's salt-first approach might prevent that.

I agree with ronnie's technique on salting. I *always* salt the cut cabbage before going on with whatever recipe I go with. For me, that's the most important step. The full breakdown on the technique is here:

https://www.seriouseats.com/the-food-la ... -cole-slaw

That is for creamy coleslaw, but you can use the technique for non-creamy cole slaw. I personally just go simple with cabbage, carrot, and red onion, and make a oil-and-vinegar dressing with some mustard to help emulsify and give a little extra flavor and a little bit of sugar to cut some of the sharpness. Unfortunately, I don't have a recipe, I always wing it. Oh, and celery seed. I almost always add celery seed, though I have used Old Bay in a pinch if I don't have celery seeds around (but then you have to adjust a bit on the salt.)

I hate to sound like 1992, but one of the things cilantro goes great in, is slaw.

Real mayo (not Miracle goo, or any of that sugary Marzetti dessert liquid slaw dressing,) a touch of plain ass white vinegar, a few dashes of celery seed, or celery salt, garlic powder, onion powder, salt& fresh pepper of course.

I like to make it a good while before serving for ingredients to meld and cabbage to weep.

I never do vinegar based at home, tho I do like it if it's not full of sugar.

Sweet salads just creep me out. Slaw and tater salad are major offenders. I always make the Mrs taste test first. Oh happy day when in new surroundings for a meal (usually cookouts or a new bbq joint,) and the slaw and or tater salad is made with real mayo.

This is the recipe that I have been using for the past year or so:

https://www.allrecipes.com/recipe/23231 ... -coleslaw/

I usually make 2 different kinds to accommodate the locals' preferences: The Lady's Coleslaw from The Lady and Sons Savannah Country Cookbook using grated cabbage and carrot, and the vinegar slaw from The St. Paul Farmer's Market Cookbook using shredded cabbage.

I sort of wing the measurements and have slightly modified the recipes:
The Lady's Coleslaw
1/2 small head finely grated cabbage
1 small peeled grated carrot
1/4 c mayonnaise
1/2 Tbsp cider vinegar
1 Tbsp sugar
1/2 tsp salt
few grinds pepper
1 tsp lemon juice

Vinegar Slaw
1/2 small head coarsely shredded cabbage, as for kraut
1/3 c sugar
1/3 c cider vinegar
3 Tbsp water
1 tsp olive oil
1/2 tsp celery seed
1/2 tsp salt

For both, I make the slaw the morning before eating so the salt and sugar have a chance to do their osmotic jobs. Both keep for several days and may even be better the second day than the first.

With a big caveat that I've never once measured anything when making this, here's a take on slaw that's become a favorite around here:

1kg finely-cut or shredded green cabbage
1 grated carrot (optional, adds a nice color but not much else)
1.5% kosher salt (1.5%, by weight, of total vegetable weight)

Place cabbage (and carrot) in a large bowl and sprinkle with salt evenly over it. Mix well and let sit for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, use your hands to squeeze the mixture gently and drain off excess moisture. Let sit another 30 minutes and squeeze it again. You can repeat this process as many times as you want but after a while, it's diminishing returns, because even though you can continue to remove moisture, the texture of the cabbage may degrade more than you want it to.

While the cabbage is draining, make the dressing (I usually end up with 1.5 - 2 cups):

2 big blobs Hellman's mayonnaise
1 tiny blob of Kewpie or Sir Kensington's mayo (optional)
1/2 sweet onion, finely grated into pulp/juice
1 small squirt Plochman's yellow mustard
1 generous splash Bragg's unfiltered apple cider vinegar
1 small splash 'regular' apple cider vinegar
1 small squeeze Tupelo honey*
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Celery seed to taste
NO MORE SALT (if you pre-salted, you won't need to add any more salt)
*Use whatever honey you like. I use Tupelo because it doesn't crystalize and the flavor is fairly neutral.

Mix all this together. The goal here is to create a fairly thick dressing that will cling to the cabbage and not run off. So, you'll need to find a balance between the thicker and thinner ingredients that also tastes good to you. This is where the yellow mustard comes in handy. It's acidic like the vinegars but unlike the vinegars, it also has cling power. So does the honey but if you use too much of that you'll be sorry. Once you get the dressing where you like it, dip some cabbage in and taste it. Adjust accordingly and refrigerate.

Once the cabbage is drained to your liking, add all the dressing to the bowl and mix everything together. Move to a storage container if desired but either way, cover and refrigerate your slaw.

This has about a 1-week life span. Day 1 is pretty good. Days 2, 3, and 4 are usually very good. After that, it'll start to diminish a bit but it can sometimes be resuscitated along the way with additional squirts of yellow mustard.

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re: specific brands . . . these are not necessarily recommendations; just listing what I use.

Mainly leftovers for dinner tonight but another weekly slaw comes to life . . .


Green Cabbage, Carrot & Nigara SG2 Tsuchime Gyuto, 210mm

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As sure as the sun rises in the east, another weekly slaw . . .


Green Cabbage, Carrot & Saji R2 Damascus Gyuto, 210mm
(stag horn handle)

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Shortening the interval a bit on 'the weekly' for a special Mothers' Day edition slaw . . .


Green Cabbage, Red Cabbage, Carrot & Hitohira Tanaka Kyuzo Blue #1 Migaki Gyuto, 210mm

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Apparently, May is the effective start of slaw season. I think this is our third batch in the last week . . .


Green Cabbage, Red Cabbage, Carrot & Tetsujin Metal Flow Blue #2 Gyuto, 210mm
. . . Memorial Day weekend edition.

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Impressive knives -- and knife skills.

Cynthia wrote:Impressive knives -- and knife skills.

Thanks. I did not use a knife on the carrots. Those, I did with my julienne peeler. It's one of the most useful single-taskers I have in my kitchen and it takes up very little room. The cabbage, that I cut by hand. I find the process very relaxing.

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ronnie_suburban wrote:

Cynthia wrote:Impressive knives -- and knife skills.

Thanks. I did not use a knife on the carrots. Those, I did with my julienne peeler. It's one of the most useful single-taskers I have in my kitchen and it takes up very little room. The cabbage, that I cut by hand. I find the process very relaxing.

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Have you ever had the cabbage salad at Balkan Taste in Des Plaines? I always thought that was the most perfectly (and finely) cut cabbage I'd ever seen, but I think yours matches it.

Cynthia wrote:

ronnie_suburban wrote:

Cynthia wrote:Impressive knives -- and knife skills.

Thanks. I did not use a knife on the carrots. Those, I did with my julienne peeler. It's one of the most useful single-taskers I have in my kitchen and it takes up very little room. The cabbage, that I cut by hand. I find the process very relaxing.

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Have you ever had the cabbage salad at Balkan Taste in Des Plaines? I always thought that was the most perfectly (and finely) cut cabbage I'd ever seen, but I think yours matches it.

Not sure how I missed your reply earlier but no, I definitely haven't and now feel an urgent need to. Thanks, for the tip!

Today, I tested out a new addition on a not-so-weekly slaw . . .


Green Cabbage, Red Cabbage, Carrot & Kato AS Gyuto, 240mm

Looking forward getting more acquainted with it. It certainly handled the cabbage exceedingly well. I take no credit for the carrots. Those, I cut with my julienne peeler.

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Another edition of the mostly-weekly slaw . . .


Green Cabbage, Red Cabbage, Carrot & Konosuke SKD Tsuchime Gyuto, 240mm

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Not sure about "ultimate" but this will be the last batch of slaw I make this week . . .


Green Cabbage, Red Cabbage, Carrot & Sukenari HAP40 Gyuto, 210mm

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Not the ultimate but actually, the first weekly slaw of 2023 . . .


Green Cabbage, Carrot & Konosuke Tetsujin Blue #2 Gyuto, 210mm

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Not the ultimate but just another edition of the weekly slaw . . .


Green Cabbage, Carrot, 1.5% salt & Masakage White #2 Shimo Gyuto, 210mm

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Not ultimate, just the weekly . . .


Green Cabbage, Carrot & Myojin Riki Seisakusho SG2 Gyuto, 240mm

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Just another weekly slaw . . .


Green Cabbage, Carrot & Konosuke SKD Gyuto, 210mm

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What better way to ease back into the kitchen after a few days away than with another round of Weekly Slaw . . . ?


Taiwanese Cabbage, Carrot & Masakage AS Koishi Gyuto, 210mm

This was the knife on the board when I left town so naturally, it was the knife I started with when I got back. I happen to love it.

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Been a while, so the inaugural weekly slaw of 2024 . . .


Green Cabbage, Carrot & Konosuke HD2 Nakiri, 165mm
It was a lot of work making sure that each shred of cabbage was a slightly different width but I managed.

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I always wondered how you got a week out of a batch of slaw - for me, crispy turns too juicy and creamy gets yucky. Is the answer that you don't put on a sauce?

tjr wrote:I always wondered how you got a week out of a batch of slaw - for me, crispy turns too juicy and creamy gets yucky. Is the answer that you don't put on a sauce?

Salt the cabbage first (I use 1.5% by weight), let it sit for a while, then squeeze out the moisture. That will eliminate most of the run-off ending up in your slaw, and extend its crispiness and its range. That said, I don't mind the different phases of slaw deterioration. No one likes mush but when made this way, I think it takes a few days to even peak, so I can generally get a couple weeks before it's no longer palatable.

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I'd like to make slaw with red cabbage. Its one of the healthiest things you can eat.