Make Me Something: Will Special, Jim Shoo, Rodney Fries

One day in 2005, LTH member YourPalWill (R.I.P.) asked the guys at Riviera (3220 N. Harlem) to construct for him a sandwich of hot soppressata, hot capicola, salami de prosciutto, prosciutto ham, fresh mozzarella, and hot giardiniera on an Italian hoagie roll. Later, this became a regular sandwich – the Will Special – at this popular Italian grocery. Several who are reading this have probably enjoyed it either at Riviera or at LTH picnics.

Last weekend, we stopped at Stony Sub (8440 S. Stony Island) for a Jim Shoo (aka, Jim Shoo, Gym Shoe), a delightful concoction of many meats and fake tzatziki on a sub sandwich segment. ReneG, perhaps the world’s greatest living authority on the sandwich, speculates that the sandwich may have been a custom job for a guy named Jim, but the exact origins of the specialty food is shrouded in mystery.



Recently, I visited our local Cuzzo’s Pasta, Pizza & Panini and saw that an item called Rodney Fries listed on their clearly displayed “Hidden Menu.” It’s a mound of fries, with Italian beef, sausage, and cheese, baked together. It was pretty good, though it tasted exactly as you’d expect it to taste. I asked the counterman where the name came from, and he told me that a guy who worked at the gaming place next door asked for it. His name, course, is Rodney.



Naming dishes in honor of celebrities or just regular customers – like the sandwiches at NY delis or the specialty hot dogs at places like the late great Hot Doug’s – is not a new thing. What I’m talking about is a specific request for a specific food item that is then named after the person who requested it.

This got me thinking that maybe it’d be fun to humbly request that a chef/cook make me a highly personalized rendition of one of their menu items, like maybe an anchovy-chili pizza, or a kind of Spanish tortilla of with hunks of salami and Italian sausage, or a sandwich filled with French fries, like Liverpool’s chip butty, dipped in tomato sauce, like a torta ahogada.

Now, I hear what you’re saying, you’re saying “Hey, why don’t you just make it at home.” I could do that, but I’d really like to have a regular (or even “hidden”) menu item named after me, so that like Achilles at the walls of Troy, my name will live forever. Or something like that.

A great idea, I would suggest that you create something that will be enjoyed by others ala the "Will Special" which JP Graziano's once made for me

Marshall K wrote:A great idea, I would suggest that you create something that will be enjoyed by others ala the "Will Special" which JP Graziano's once made for me

Will was fortunate they cooperated. For years, I carried the ingredient list for the Will Special. Some places cooperated, a few would point to a sandwich of similar meat assortment and suggest I take that, instead.

One way to make this work is for people to share their favorite food item and how it is customized. People here start to visit this same place, "My friend Marshall really loves your _________ with these enhancements: _________________. Could I have one, too?" Hand them your list to make it easier for the staff. Perhaps after a while, all you have to ask for is the Marshall.

There is an element to the OurPalWill story that may have been forgotten: Jane and Michael Stern caught wind of the Will Special and highlighted it in one of their books. When they added specifically named signage in their shop, I don't know if it was before or after the book mention. It really was an organic evolution from a beloved Southern Gentleman who really knew his food.

When Will died, there was an LTH event for this. Hammond and I simply read Will's posts, including his last. I know I would never want to meet him professionally, but he was always wonderful in his interactions with us. What a guy. What a loss.

Regards,
Cathy2