Babbo is indeed three stars. Buford's book points out that Bruni was very high on the place culinarily (he managed to visit multiple times without being recognized). His objection was the music: not what was played (though that appeared to have played a role) so much as its volume. As Buford relates it, the music was how Batali likes it when he's in-house--extremely loud to the point of making conversation difficult. His house, his choice. But it apparently cost him a fourth star from Bruni.
As to the Chodorow ad, I find myself agreeing pretty much with mrbarolo. That said, I wonder whether Mr. Chodorow ever objected to positive reviews when the reviewer hadn't established his or her bona fides to Chodorow's satisfaction. Notwithstanding the ostensible power of the NYT (and/or Bruni), I find the reaction instructive and sad. If people like a place, they will come--critics be damned. Even in NYC. I suspect that the Bruni review was, for whatever reason(s), simply the straw that broke the camel's back. Why Chodorow feels so put upon is another matter--but I don't think he's done himself proud with this ad. Sometimes, even if you're 100% in the "right" (whatever that might be), the best thing to do is keep your mouth shut.
Makes me grateful, yet again, to be in Chicago, where the temperature is cooler.
Gypsy Boy
"I am not a glutton--I am an explorer of food." (Erma Bombeck)