I had an unequivocably stellar experience last week at Great Lake and felt, based on this initial vist, that it was clearly among the finest pizzas I've eaten in Chicago and quite possibly the best. I think there are a few other places that are in the ballpark but based on quality, execution and my personal preference of style, I cannot remember a more satisfying artisanal pizza.
Menu boardCouldn't be simpler, right? Great Lake's whole story is right there to see.
We started out with a couple of salads, both of which were excellent . . .
Cannellini Bean and Tuna SaladPerfectly cooked beans, mixed with high-quality canned Italian tuna and crunchy bits of red onion. Nicely balanced, as none of the notes were being played too loudly.
Mixed Greens with Buttermilk DressingHearty, bouncy greens in a compelling, house-made buttermilk dressing.
We ordered 4 pizzas, which were served in a progression that allowed us to savor each of them under optimal conditions. First up . . .
Tomato, Fresh Mozzarella & Mona Cheese with Fresh Herbs
A closer lookWhat I noticed immediately was the incredible crust. It was light and crispy but it also had a tug-away tenderness that was unlike anything I'd ever experienced before. The flavor was deep -- not only from the perfectly proportioned bits of char that dotted it but also from the dough itself, which was as complex and satisfying as a fine, naturally-leavened bread. The tangy, yeasty flavor continued to develop throughout the chew. Toppings were sensational, too. The cheeses were both rich and pungent, the tomatoes sweet and slightly acidic, and the herbs were fragrant and heady. The pizza was cooked to absolute perfection. Not only does pizzaiolo/proprietor Nick know his oven intimately but his pizzas had a perfect balance between crust and toppings. Any more toppings and they wouldn't have been cooked properly when the crust was done. Any fewer and they would have finished cooking well before that amazing crust did. This pizza was immaculate, as were the 3 that followed . . .
Cremini Mushroom, Mona Cheese & Black PepperAnother demonstration of the mastery over conception and execution. Here, the mushrooms were sliced so thinly that they cooked perfectly. They were tender -- not woodsy at all -- and they rendered no unwanted moisture on the pizza. Needless to say, the quality of the ingredients was sensational but again, it was the way they were handled that took this pizza to unprecedented heights.
More on the crust . . .
Side ViewThe uneven air holes tell the tale. This dough, which I'm guessing was made with fresh yeast and/or a fantastic starter, was allowed to rise slowly, which creates the unevenness in the holes. As the yeast feed, they produce lactic acid, which makes a strong contribution toward the overall flavor of the dough. The slower they feed, the more flavorful the dough. The downside to slow proofing is that it can lead to poor rise and spring as the dough cooks. But not in this case. Not even close. Again, this dough was crispy, light and tender. It's an overused word in food-writing but I would describe this crust as ethereal. It took some real thought, experience and care to produce this crust.
Bottom CrustEven better tasting than it looked. There was a perfect amount of char on all the pizza crusts. Considering that Great Lake has a gas-burning oven, the results are astonishing and again, point to a rare mastery over ingredients and equipment.
Our next 2 pizzas were just as delicious as the first 2 and the crust was absoultely the same on each one . . .
Tomato, Fresh Mozzarella, Sausage, Red Pepper and Mona CheeseFantastic, slightly spicy sausage in which the pork and the judicioius seasoning worked together in harmony. I loved the roasted red peppers which were, not surprisingly, perfectly executed.
Spinach, Garlic, Fresh Mozzarella & Mona CheeseA great marriage of flavors and the thinly-sliced garlic -- not minced or pressed -- was fantastic.
For 'dessert,' we tried a few slices of a dry-cured sausage from Salumeria Bielleise in NYC . . .
Dry-cured sausage from Salumeria BielleiseI loved this sausage because it was flavorful but not overwhelming with spice. The pork and the seasonings complemented each other well and the tanginess of the sausage was subtle.
Our group was 8 (5 adults and 3 kids) and the environs were not especially conducive to such a large and partially-impatient group. But we were very comfortable -- even sitting with a few folks we didn't know -- and made to feel incredibly welcome. But still, I'd probably leave the younger kids out of the equation next time around. The older ones not only loved the pizza but seemed to do fine. There are maybe 12-14 seats in the entire space. That, combined with the brief hours, make Great Lake a somewhat difficult destination, especially for dining in. But, it's precisely this smallness that, I believe, makes the pizza as transcendent as it is. The level of care applied to each pie is meticulous and that care just happens to be highly expert. Nick and Lydia are extraordinarily talented but I'm guessing they feel like they couldn't be this extraordinary in a bigger space. I'm sure there are many reasons why Great Lake is as small as it is and I respect each and every one of them (even if I have no idea what they actually are). This pizza was, for me, revelatory and easily worth the minor inconvenience we had to endure to experience it. This was a truly magnificent, bar-setting experience.
=R=
By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada
Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS
There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM
That don't impress me much --Shania Twain