A Traditional Version of Bucatini alla MatricianaComing back to this thread after a night's sleep, I realise it might have been useful for me to offer something of a traditionalist recipe for
bucatini alla matriciana.* The following is how I, following others in my family, make the dish and essentially the same recipe can be found in any number of books and websites which are concerned with the traditional cuisine of Rome, Lazio and the Abruzzi.
Ingredients:
• olive oil or lard
• ca. 1/3 lb of (in order of preference)
guanciale, pancetta, or
prosciutto, cut into small cubes.
• 1 small to medium (red) onion, chopped
• hot red chile flakes
• 1 small can imported
pomodori pelati (preferably San Marzano)
• salt
• black pepper
• 1 lb of high quality, Italian bucatini
• pecorino romano
Instructions:
• Fry the cubed pork in a little olive oil or lard at medium heat, rendering out the fat from the pork and ultimately making the pork pieces crispy. At this point, I like to remove some or most of the pieces of pork and set them aside.
• Add the chopped onion and fry but do not brown.
• Add the pomodori pelati and chop them in the pan with a spoon or fork.
• Add the desired amount of red chile flakes and a generous dose of freshly ground black pepper. Allow the tomato/onion mixture to cook and reduce for ca. 20 minutes; taste and adjust if necessary with the addition of salt (N.B. the pork itself adds a salty element to the dish, as will the pecorino, so beware not to add salt without tasting.)
• Meanwhile, heat water, cook bucatini just short of the desired
al dente stage, drain, reserving a little of the cooking water, and add the bucatini to the sauce pan.
• Add the crispy pork bits to the sauce pan with the bucatini, mix thoroughly, and adjust for consistency with a little of the cooking water if the sauce is too tight, cooking the pasta in the sauce for perhaps a minute or so.
• Serve with an abundant amount of freshly grated pecorino romano and a mill for adding freshly ground black pepper.
With a recipe so simple as this one, the quality of the ingredients is especially important: Use only the best of everything.
I referred above to an exchange on the issue of the presence of garlic in this dish that I had with someone on Planet Leff; the discussion can be found here:
CH General Topics discussion of alla matriciana.
The person with whom I had this discussion in turn wrote in to Mario Batali on eGullet, whose response to her questions about the dish and more generally on the use of garlic can be found here:
Marius (Batali) agrees with Antonius on eGullet about alla matriciana.†
Antonius
P.S. Don Giuseppe,
You make an excellent point in that one must inevitably make adjustments and compensate in subtle ways for shortcomings of ingredients that are beyond our control. In the end, one doesn't eat the individual ingredients but a dish that cooks and comes together with its own flavour profile and it is the final result that one aims to make as well as one can. In this regard, let me add that your recipe sounds great and I would be happy to have a bowl of your bucatini placed before me right now (well, it's
almost lunchtime).
* Two versions of the name are current in Italy:
bucatini alla matriciana and
bucatini all' Amatriciana, the latter being historically correct, the other a now widespread form with misparsing. The dish is named after a town, Amatrice, in the far west of the Abruzzi, not too far from Rome.
† Many thanks to RST for calling my attention to the eGullet discussion.
Links to other recipes and cooking notes by this writer: http://lthforum.com/bb/viewtopic.php?p=55649#55649
Post-site-move character problems fixed. Later, CH link updated.
Last edited by
Antonius on January 11th, 2010, 2:12 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Alle Nerven exzitiert von dem gewürzten Wein -- Anwandlung von Todesahndungen -- Doppeltgänger --
- aus dem Tagebuch E.T.A. Hoffmanns, 6. Januar 1804.
________
Na sir is na seachain an cath.